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Converting stock front brake line setup to single line (Like Dodges)

BlueBlazer

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Anybody done this? I want to do it on my crew cab cause my hard brake lines in the front are all jacked up from the previous owner and I do not feel like snaking new ones back in there (anybody who has done this to a 1 ton diesel powered rig knows what I am talking about). Anywho, will this work OK with the stock MC and PV or is there something different on the Dodges that allows a single line to work OK. I know where I can get fitting and lines and such, so that is not a problem, it is more the physics of it that I want to make sure will be OK. Thanks in advance.
 
I didn't follow that excatly but I think you are asking if anybody does a single drop line from the chasis to the front axle, sets a Tee and then goes to the respective sides.

If this is what you are asking then yes I did it on my buggy and just about everything we do that requires working on the brake system a bunch ends up like this.

I see no problems with this.
 
What you might consider doing, to avoid any unnecesary hastle, is to route the two hardlines to the middle of the frame, run two rubber lines down to the axle, and then hardlines out to each side. Kinda ghetto sounding but it could be dne fairly nicely I think.
 
just run one line to the front(get rid of the prop valve), run a drop line, splitter off the rear, soft lines at the wheels. Done. Thats what I'm going to be doing. Talked to Dan at Bluetorch about it, says he does it all the time.
 
I am not sure I want to get rid of the prop. valve, my plan was to cap the lowermost outlet, then run a flex line to a block on the axle, then out to the calipers just like a rear disc setup. I just wanted to make sure I wouldn't have a flow problem to the big calipers. I realize there is not much flow in a brake system when everything is not functioning correctly, but obviously if the little bit of flow is restricted, braking will suffer.
 
I understand that (I had two hydralics classes when I was in school), but there still is flow, and in a panic stop, you do not want the flow restricted in anyway, and basically I will be cutting the flow area in half. It may not be a problem on the trail, but on a tow rig it could be. I wonder if the Dodges have a larger single line to compensate for this?
 
good question. Worth looking into. I'd say its sufficient for the rear but we all know the front does most of the brake work. I don't see the reason for leaving the prop valve in place. Won't that simply restrict the flow to the one line you are using?
 
If I was converting the rear to discs, I would likely get rid of the prop. valve. Since I am keeping the rear drums, I would still need the functionality of the prop. valve to properly engage the rear brakes. Plus, I do not know if the prop. valve is really a bottleneck in the system. If it is not, then there is no reason to ditch it.
 
Well I just measured the line coming from the MC, and it is the same size as the lines from the prop. valve, so it appears that capping off one port and having a single hose coming from the other port will not restrict flow any more than the line coming from the MC.

Anybody know the best place to get the adapter fittings? I found a few, but wondered if there are better places. Thanks.
 
I'm not where I can go out and look at it, but if I recall correctly....it's one line from the master cylinder to the front distribution block where it splits to 2 lines. I don't see a flow problem going from one line to one line. It's not like it comes off the m/c with 2 lines or even a bigger line splitting later into 2 smaller ones.
 
BlueBlazer62 said:
I wonder if the Dodges have a larger single line to compensate for this?

I would imagine that they do. The rear lines on our trucks are 1/4", 1/4" hose, and two 3/16" lines to the wheels. I'd imagine the front on the Dodge is the same.
 
sled_dog said:
just run one line to the front(get rid of the prop valve), run a drop line, splitter off the rear, soft lines at the wheels. Done. Thats what I'm going to be doing. Talked to Dan at Bluetorch about it, says he does it all the time.

Getting rid of the proportioning valve (which is really a combination valve) is stupid. If you get rid of that and you blow a line you have ZERO brakes. The master cylinder relies on that combination valve to shut off the "open" line when you blow a line. Otherwise no brakes.

If you want a single drop, tee the two outputs for the front together, run a single soft line down to the axle, then tee it again.
 
I am not sure that would gain me anything. I measured the line coming from the MC, and it is the same size as each hard line coming from the prop. valve, so I think capping one port and using a single line off the other should be sufficient. I guess I will find out soon enough.
 
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