Cool shop trick

[POWERMAD]

I get to work and check in and get my 1st job of the day.
Foreman hands me an RO and a bearing and says hear ya go.
One of the last few peices of a puzzle laid out in the gear room.
Monday fer me too, I was in no mood for that crap.
I was kinda pissin and moanin about needin a sleeve to press on the bearings and my buddy turned me on to this..
Keep in mind that the table I am doing this on is a 1/2" thick.......
Secure the work and place the bearing on the table right next to it.
(got gloves on?)
break out the torch.
Adjust it so it aint smokin, just like yer gonna slice off a peice.
With the bearing ready to go start makin laps on the inside.
Apply the heat to the table on the inside and just run a few laps for 30 secs or so.
Cut the gas ,ly down the tip, pick up the bearing(got gloves?) and that sucker drops right on.
That's my neatest thing I ever saw tip of the day.

 

[ryoken]

we store our cutlass bearings for the boats in our freezer. throw a quick torch to the strut they get installed in and pop that frozen bearing right in. saves from having to press em in... /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[Greg72]

Sounds like a good story, but I don't know what an "RO" is..... /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

The gist of story seems to be that you can use the laws of thermal expansion to make the receving part BIGGER (if even slightly) so that a bearing can be installed without hammering and swearing. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[sled_dog]

same thing you do with a ring gear install on a carrier. Heat the ring gear in an oven so you get nice even heat then just drop the sucker on the carrier.

 

[nvrenuf]

[ QUOTE ]
Sounds like a good story, but I don't know what an "RO" is..... /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif



[/ QUOTE ]

"RO" = repair order /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[diesel4me]

I've used a similar trick to install timken tapered bearings on a tecumseh crankshaft--I put the bearings on top of my woodstove(which was nice and hot,since it was winter!)and about 10 minites later,the bearing started to smoke from the grease melting out--I had the crank outside in the snowbank,and using welders gloves I put the bearings on the crank,they slid right down all the way with no hammering or effort at all!.
Once I sold a local garage a rear wheel bearing for a large oil delivery truck--the guy called back and cussed me out for sending him the "wrong" bearing--I told him to send it back with the old one,I matched the numbers on the original one,it was the same number I had sent him.Thinking perhaps the bearing was defective,I sent another one of the same number--again he called swearing and ranting I didnt know how to look up parts,so I told him to call the Bower-BCA Bearing "Answer Line" a 800 number for bearing question answers.He called me back and said the guy at BCA must be smoking crak--he told him to put the bearing on a 100 watt bulb like a droplight,for 20 minites and try again.He said he was sure the bearing would mush the threads on the axle if he tried to put it on--but time was running out,and he had to do something,so he did what the guy at BCA said to do,and TA-DAHHH--it slid right on!!--He still doesnt believe a light bulb will expand a bearing a good ten thousandths of an inch!!.Oh yeah--to show he was sorry for chewing me out,he let me fill my tank for free!--so I drove around most of the night to make sure it was empty before I filled it up!. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

 

[boz42]

done the same thing w/ bulldozer tracks. freeze the master pin, heat the track rail & pound it in w/ a 15# sledge hammer. /forums/images/graemlins/weld.gif

 

[muddysub]

we do that kinda stuff on an almost daily basis at work. i work for a john deere heavy equipment dealership. we also put bearings in a deepfrier filled with motor oil and freeze them to make things fit.

 

[Fry]

same here we use a old hot plate at the New Holland dealership I work at. I usually just press them or smack it with a hammer but lots of guys like the heat them up.

 

[jarheadk5]

Oh yeah...
One of the few good things about my current job is that I'm learning all the cool ways to remove stuff with a torch, which I never got to use in aviation. Friday, I used a rosebud tip in our efforts to get a yoke off a Fuller fine-spline output shaft. Had the whole yoke cherry-red, and the metal was actually puddling a bit where the torch was aimed. It didn't work though, so we ended up using 65 tons of the 100-ton press's capacity to bust that sucker off. Talk about a "big bang"...

 

[cybrfire]

made new pins for the back of my caddy block so they would be longer to go through my adapter/mount plate and froze them before I put them in. Just made it easier. Could have used a soft hammer but why go to all that work.

 

[POWERMAD]

Heat and cold is a facinating thing
I have frozen dry liners to drop em in.
Blown wheel seals that need the bearings replaced?? put the hub in the washer (190*) and put new races in the deep freeze.
Got an oven for heating crank and cam gears.
Have put inner rear axle bearings in the oven to be able to get them on an axle housing that broke a shaft and it bound up and distorted the housing end .020". Can't very well put an axle from a Mack Dump Truck in the deep freeze so I just hose the axle ends with an CO2 fire extingisher and slip the oven heated bearing on(torch trick next time)
I have customer signed papers in my box for those repairs. /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
The cone bearing torch trick was cool as hell.
The best shop trick I ever saw involving heating and cooling was on a Chunk truck.
Sorta like a garbage truck dump box rig but no chain.
All hydraulic.
Cans 8' wide 10' high and 30' long.
The pivot point at the rear regularly broke and a seperated up to an inch.
We used to play hell getting the sections back togeter to reair it.
Jim started workin there and showed us this neat lil trick.
It works great for broken frames as that is the same kind of application.
Two 1/2" thick by 2" bar stock tac welded about 9" from either end of the crack.
weld another 18" x2" bar stock over those.
align the members.
Heat the staap in the middle with a bad ass rosebud about 3" wide across the crack till it is glowin and let it cool.
Grab some coffe, have a smaoke and let it cool down.
Go back over and it is sucked up tighter than a nuns cun...kitty.
Weld it up, blow the strap off with the air arc and plate the repair.
After Jim showed us that I couldn't wait for the next one to do the repair myself. /forums/images/graemlins/weld.gif

 

[bgreen]

Just be aware that most bearing manufacturers recommend you never heat a roller bearing over 240*

Basically, if you have to heat it over 240* there is too much interference for most bearings. You are effectively limiting the design clearance they have included for oil film, and thermal expansion during normal operation.

 

[70~K5]

[ QUOTE ]

The best shop trick I ever saw involving heating and cooling was on a Chunk truck.
Sorta like a garbage truck dump box rig but no chain.
All hydraulic.
Cans 8' wide 10' high and 30' long.
The pivot point at the rear regularly broke and a seperated up to an inch.
We used to play hell getting the sections back togeter to reair it.
Jim started workin there and showed us this neat lil trick.
It works great for broken frames as that is the same kind of application.
Two 1/2" thick by 2" bar stock tac welded about 9" from either end of the crack.
weld another 18" x2" bar stock over those.
align the members.
Heat the staap in the middle with a bad ass rosebud about 3" wide across the crack till it is glowin and let it cool.
Grab some coffe, have a smaoke and let it cool down.
Go back over and it is sucked up tighter than a nuns cun...kitty.
Weld it up, blow the strap off with the air arc and plate the repair.
After Jim showed us that I couldn't wait for the next one to do the repair myself. /forums/images/graemlins/weld.gif

[/ QUOTE ]
Take some pics if you can the next time you do a job like this. I love to see it. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif