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Coolant bypass hose reroute

anwat

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OK, so the issue is the coolant bypass hose is at an odd angle, and way too short to manipulate into position. As you can see, the only thing holding it on is some way too tight clamps and they aren't going to stay put for long. Is there any reason I can't put a "T" in the heater hose and run that to the water pump fitting? It seems it would accomplish the same thing. I've read numerous posts about whether or not it's even needed if you are running a heater, it seems the consensus is it's redundant with the heater. I just want to make sure I'm not missing something and end up in hot water. I want to plug that bypass hole in the manifold, and just put a Y or T fitting where the heater hose currently is and run that to the water pump. Same in the end, right? This is a gen VI 7.4.
 
This one's on a '96 454 I have at work. It's got straight fittings and a slightly bent molded hose. I know I bought that hose from the parts store when I did injectors on it not long ago. Im no help otherwise. 16944666766713000958163788153447.jpg

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The bypass isn't needed as long you aren't running a valve that shuts off flow through the heater core. I know GM ran those valves on some of the R/V trucks (among other applications), but not sure when that started.
 
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Like @Truckman4life said, 2 short straight fittings and a 45° molded hose. Part of the current fitment problem with the hose is that funky fitting on the intake.
 
Yes that fitting is the issue. A straight hose nipple. 3/4" I'd hose. I know there is a specific molded hose we used to get for this spot. It seem no has it any more.
 
I know there is a specific molded hose we used to get for this spot. It seem no has it any more.

I’ve found that Gates, etc are make generic multi bend hoses nowadays rather than application specific parts. You have to cut out the degree bend you need and hope you’ll find a use for the rest later.
 
Saw a youtube where someone actually managed to bend a rubber hose w/ heat, and it stayed - didnt burn or crack. Looked to me like it took some practice to get the heat just right.

Might be able to shrink/replace that brass fitting.
 
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Thanks again, everything is up and running with no leaks. I think the hose might still be a bit long, but it's going to stay that way...took too long to pry it on there to take it off. For reference, it was Continental B88387 that I cut down to fit...and then a straight fitting coming out of the manifold. I also used the new Gates Powergrip heat-shrink clamps on the homemade lower hose, we'll see how they last.
 
I am glad you got sealed up. I have had the opportunity to handle continental hoses and belts in the last few months, I am not impressed. I will go out of my way to avoid that brand.
 
Thanks for the heads up...I'll keep the foot of 3/4" heater hose in my parts box for when it lets go...I'm still going to try to figure out a better way, those nipples don't line up and it will be a weak link, but it's less weak than it was before.
 

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