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Cooling my 6.2.....

84CUCV

3/4 ton status
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Jul 1, 2002
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NJ for now
Just had the radiator redone. All new hoses and clamps. Will a heater core for a 1 ton 6.2 cucv work in a cucv k5? Is there anything else I should replace while I am at it? I am looking for a thermostat for it. I was also looking for one if there is a problem with it will get stuck open or something like that. Anyone know what I mean? Anything else you guys could think of would be appreciated. Thanks Mike
 
Yes, the heater cores/system is essentially the same. I've heard of T-stats like that but don't know the name. I run the Robert Shaw T-Stat, supposed to be the best for the 6.2/6.5.
 
Where did you get it from? Is it a 160 or what? I don't even know what is in there so I thought since everything else is new I should replace that to. Thanks for the reply mike
 
My local NAPA guy got it for me, but I don't know if they all carry them. I got a 180, gotta have heat come winter. When it gets real cold, I even cover part of the radiator with cardboard.
 
We don't get that cold down here in TX, but what I did was get a new four core and hoses, replace the thermo with a 180 cause that's factory... Need heat all the time(at least a little) for these trucks! Then I added an electric fan to increase cooling in these hot summers, works great!!!! If the Thermo gets stuckk open, it can be almost as bad as it stuck shut, a Diesel doesn't run well at all too cold, and too hot she runs bad too(also overheats), but stuck open would be better than shut.... What I do is keep tools handy and if she has such a problem, tap on the housing while she's running till she opens, when I get home, change it.... If that doesn't work, take the housing off and remove it till I can get home and replace it.... If it was a $1 difference, than I would go with the one that stayed open, but do to the original design, I would imagine that anything that advertises that would be a shame or really expensive and not worth your money!!!! The original cause for such a difect is not using the correct mixture of antifreeze and water... Too much antifreeze or water and the difference actually takes away from the effect of mixing them in the first place!!!! Just water will rust the engine from the inside out, and just anti freeze will corode the inside too! Hope this helps! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
With all that has been said about thermostats and cooling on this post, what is the hottest temperature a 6.2 can safely run?
 
WHat do you mean by safe????? I've had mine pegged out on the thermo and it still ran fine, I stopped, the water boiled, and the rad cap blew!!!! Never blew a hose yet though!!! Soon after I did the mod I mentioned before! Are you talking for everyday running temps or incase you have radiator problems? Normal running temps is around 180 in the winter and 200 in the summer for me! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Normal HMMWV temperature range is 190F to 230F /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif, the cooling fan doesn't even kick on 'til 220F (then back off at 190F). I'm not sure why they spec them so high, but they do /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
Well the trick with diesel is to have it hot, but not too hot, it make a huge difference if you can get the diesel running at the optimum temp, unlike a gas engine where it wouldn't make a difference.
The trick is to keep it there though, that's why the big radiator, and electric fan instead of mechanical.
 
I know a diesel can be more efficient at higher temps, but it does leave the operator much leeway between normal and cooked. They gauge only goes to 240F.

The HMMWV cooling fan is electrically controlled, hydraulically accuated (power steering pump), mechanically driven.
 
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