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Core Support Removal?

sandracer799

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Feb 10, 2004
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Richmond,Virginia
I am going to be pulling my engine and tranny as one. From everything I have read it is alot easier if you pull the core support off the front of the truck.

How much of a pita is it to do this? Anything is particular I need to watch out for?

Any advice would be great.

Thanks
 
I`d look out for rusty bolts and sharp edges.

Mine was so bad, I was able to just pull up on both sides and it just popped right through the mounts. Fockin rot!:mad::mad:
 
I am going to be pulling my engine and tranny as one. From everything I have read it is alot easier if you pull the core support off the front of the truck.

How much of a pita is it to do this? Anything is particular I need to watch out for?

Any advice would be great.

Thanks


I R&R'd a big block/TH400 combo out of my sixpack -- which is admittedly not lifted -- and did not have to remove the support. (Obviously the *radiator* came out, however!) It was a bit tight and required constant fiddling with the engine leveler, but the pair came out and went in without serious issue.

Oh, and duh, the hood was off =))

If you're gonna pull the support, you could prolly just remove the front clip (support, fenders, hood) as one. I'm thinking the forward body mounts (frame to support) and the fender-to-tub bolts would be about it (well, and undoing the headlight/marker wiring and the hood release cable.) And the battery(ies) have to come out, but you'd prolly do that anyway for a motor swap (shorting batteries with anything big and metal is ... exciting.)

See why I left the support on? Now, if your truck is lifted, you might do well to make sure that the engine/tranny is *completely* disconnected (speedo cable, if not on the t-case, wiring, etc as well as mounts) and then put some junk stock-size tires on the front ... or maybe even a spare set of junk rims, with no tires. The angle would make fiddling the motor/tranny unit out a bit more exciting, but use your redneck ingenuity =)) [just don't use duct tape! :D ]

-- A
 
Thanks after reading that, I may try and remove it with the support still in. The truck is still stock height with 31" tires.
 
I took mine off last week for the same reasons. But i had already pulled my fenders and they arent going back. It was cake though. Just keep everything labeled well. Oh ansd mine is lifted 6" w/35s so i needed to pull it to make it easier.
 
I Pulled my motor(350) and trans(th350) out in one shot, and my blazer has a 8" lift (put the 35's on to lower it alil) i only pulled the radiator & hood. I installed a 400sb/sm465 combo in its place:)! Should be a cake walk with no lift and 31's! Good luck!
 
Thanks after reading that, I may try and remove it with the support still in. The truck is still stock height with 31" tires.

Also, a smallblock will be lighter than my 454 is. We won't mention that I had the arm on my cherry picker all the way up, where it's rated for rather less than the motor and tranny weighs :whistle: ... but it was the only way I could get the reach :haha:

Point being that some will depend on your cherry picker, but it's likely much easier than you fear.

-- A
 
I like pulling the front clip...it's not hard, and removes some of the drama and excitement from the re&re part. With the clip off it is so much easier to see the mounts and stuff (obviously more important on the re-install end of things)

I spent less than two hours removing the front clip from my K5 a week or two ago. That was total disassembly of the sheet metal though...if I would have had an extra set of hands I could have had it off in under 30 minutes in one large piece. OTOH I have no rusted/frozen bolts to deal with on my K5...if the front clip has never been off it could be a lot of cursing and stuff trying to break some of those bolts free. Specifically the core support bolts.

Rene
 
I did my k5- 7" lift, engine only right over the core support. Didn't air down the tires or anything. Little step stool cam in handy though!
 

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