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Corp14ff mini spool

Monster512

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just put a mini spool in, anyone got any problems with thiers if you are runnin em? Do I need to be leary of anything? Got 4:88 gears and 38.5 boggers. Just seemed to cheap and simple to install, maybe I am still floored by that.
 
I still dont know why people buy spools......Welding the spiders is basically free and does the same thing.
 
And breaks easier than a spool especially when people insist you can weld it any other way than with a stick.

Mine has been welded for about 3 years. It was done with a MIG. It doesn't matter what you do it with. As long as you get good penatration and fill it in correctly. Mine was a gov-loc too. I welded the teeth together, then took some 1/4" plate and made some squares to fill in the big gaps. It's basicly one big chunk of metal now (aka a mini-spool). Took over 8 hours to get it all done.
 
I still dont know why people buy spools......Welding the spiders is basically free and does the same thing.
I agree its so easy to do to. That being said I blew the welds on mine at BB, I blame that on the ****ty welder that I used though
 
I was gonna weld it, but the spool was so cheap and that way I can save the spider gears for something else (like what I dont know) and didnt want to take the chance of me not getting a good bead welded on and trashin everything.
 
I am not looking forward to opening mine up, I drove at least 3 miles on the trail and probably 10 on the highway after the weld gave up
 
I still dont know why people buy spools......Welding the spiders is basically free and does the same thing.

x2 I have a Lincoln Locker in my K5 . 14Blt FF W/Gov Lock.
I guarantee it will never fail.

The S10 is welded in the rear (D70HD)
Not worried about that either. Unless I am really rich I will never do anything besides weld the rear in a wheeler.
 
And breaks easier than a spool especially when people insist you can weld it any other way than with a stick.

Agreed, I've seen several welded up rear ends that broke the welds. Two of them took out the ring and pinion from the broken weld debris.

If its done right, welding up the rear is certainly a good option.


Not worried about that either. Unless I am really rich I will never do anything besides weld the rear in a wheeler.

If you drive the truck on any kind of regular basis, the spool will eat tires. A detroit might be worth the money when each tire costs as much as the locker. My .02
 
i agree but i just broke a 14bltff detroit and got told tough luck not sure if il put another in
 
Agreed, I've seen several welded up rear ends that broke the welds. Two of them took out the ring and pinion from the broken weld debris.

If its done right, welding up the rear is certainly a good option.




If you drive the truck on any kind of regular basis, the spool will eat tires. A detroit might be worth the money when each tire costs as much as the locker. My .02

Drove mine for a year welded .. ;)
 
Agreed, I've seen several welded up rear ends that broke the welds. Two of them took out the ring and pinion from the broken weld debris.

If its done right, welding up the rear is certainly a good option.




If you drive the truck on any kind of regular basis, the spool will eat tires. A detroit might be worth the money when each tire costs as much as the locker. My .02

spool was only 190.00 shipped to door, didnt think that was too much for piece of mind, only drive rig on trails and bogs
 
A good weld job even with a MIG is more then sufficient for a 14bff. A friend of mine has snapped 14bff shafts on his rig and the first destroyed the Detroit. The second didn't even phase the welded spiders. If the shafts snap before the welded spiders I would call that more then sufficient.

Harley
 
I have been searching for all the good welded 14FF spider gear write ups with pics and I'm coming up with nothing but crappy threads with crappy pics. One was allright but nothing good. Alot just have red X's now. Anyone know where all the good threads are??
 
I busted my 12 bolt with a lincoln locker( I mean evey thing in the diff) on the first trip always BUY a locker

12 bolts are little different than a 14bff though. two spiders and side gears in an open case as opposed to four spiders and side gears in the 14 bolt case not to mention everything is bigger and stronger.

I ran a welded 14 bolt for 3 years that was welded pretty poorly in my opinion. spot welded in several places instead of being fully welded up like most people do (not done by me) no problems ever but I recently bought a detroit cause I put the axle in my dd and cant have it chewing up my tires that bad.:D
 
Myself and a bunch of people in our club run welded rear axles and nobody that I know of has expressed any interest in changing it out.

The key is proper welding (mainly that it has enough weld), and it's not that hard. I also believe that most are MIG. I've seen several welds break but they simply didn't have enough welding performed (i.e. only welded about 1" on each side gear to spider connection). I've never seen one fail that had the crap welded out of it.

My welded 14-bolt is going on 7-8 years now and there was no noticable issue when I pulled the cover to change fluid a couple of months ago. It's been through a set of 35's, 38's, and now 39.5's including being driven to and from the trails for the first couple of years, and it's lasted through several broke 30-spline D60 stubs. 78Buford also has run a welded rear D60, and now a D70 in his 42" tire big-block powered pig. He broke the D70 weld the first time out (crappy job, see above) but after having it fully rewelded it's held up to several years of serious abuse including snapping a 35-spline D60 stub.
 
I was just askin if anyone had any problems with the spool, We all know welding is cheaper than buying anything. But Ive only heard of welds breaking, no spools, so I am happy with my decision to go with the spool
 

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