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Corporate 10 bolt gear change

Chris,
Thanks for your help! I may be back after setting the backlash. Borrowed some tools from work and will post some pics after getting it set up. Take it easy!
Wes
 
Chris,
Here is the final assembly pattern check (with the help of Sam my son!).
i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj248/wesjoy70/IMG_5935.jpg
Does it look good? The whole assembly is a little tight to turn. It does not roll like silk but seems tight. Is this normal? By the way, backlash came out to be .009".
Wes
 
Trucknace,
I will probably hang onto the gears for right now until I am satisfied with my 4.11s. If I decide to get rid of them, I'll let you know!
Wes
 
pierce88K5 said:
Chris,
Here is the final assembly pattern check (with the help of Sam my son!).
i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj248/wesjoy70/IMG_5935.jpg
Click to expand...

Still looks good.


pierce88K5 said:
The whole assembly is a little tight to turn. It does not roll like silk but seems tight. Is this normal? By the way, backlash came out to be .009".
Wes
Click to expand...

The assembly should be a bit tight to turn due to bearing preload, as long as you set those correctly you'll be fine.

Did you check the backlash at a few different places on the ring and pinion? And did you use red loc-tite on the ring gear bolts? Also, make sure to use a new pinion nut on final assembly.
 
Chris,
I only checked backlash at one spot. I will check around the gear in several places. I used red loctite on the ring bolts and torqued them to 65 ft/lbs in a star pattern. I also used the new pinion nut that came with the master rebuild kit. I measured the old carrier bearing shims and added .010 shims to both sides due to the old assembly being a little loose.
Wes
 
Chris,
I am getting .009 to .010" of backlash around the ring gear. Should I shim it to the passenger side .010"?
Wes
 
pierce88K5 said:
Chris,
I am getting .009 to .010" of backlash around the ring gear. Should I shim it to the passenger side .010"?
Wes
Click to expand...

Do you mean .001"?

Anything within a few thousands of runout is nothing to worry about.

What's the backlash spec on a 10 bolt? If you're within spec, leave it.
 
Chris,
.001" was what I meant. According to Yukon Gear, .006-.010" is the spec. Looks like I will be putting the axles in and buttoning is up tonight and take it for a test spin. I will let you know how it turns out. Thanks a million for the help!
Wes
 
pierce88K5 said:
I also used the new pinion nut that came with the master rebuild kit.
Click to expand...

Pinion nuts are one time use, if you used the new nut while you were changing pinion depth then you should replace it upon final assembly when you install the crush sleeve.

If the pinion nut comes loose, it will take everything with it (I've seen it happen twice to people that reused pinion nuts). They're only $1 or so.

pierce88K5 said:
I measured the old carrier bearing shims and added .010 shims to both sides due to the old assembly being a little loose.
Wes
Click to expand...

As long as you didn't need to use a sledge hammer to get the carrier back in, its not too tight. There is a spec for carrier bearing preload but I usually do that one by hand (after having done the first 10 or so diffs, you get a feel for it).
 
Chris,
Just finished reinstalling everything. I only used the the old pinion nut for fit ups. I used the new one for final torque. I have heard of too many horror stories of those things letting loose! I idled it down the block and back and did not hear any bad noises. Seemed to drive fine. I felt the rear end after test driving and did notice that the pinion flange area was warm to the touch. Any concerns about this?
Wes
 
pierce88K5 said:
Chris,
Just finished reinstalling everything. I only used the the old pinion nut for fit ups. I used the new one for final torque. I have heard of too many horror stories of those things letting loose! I idled it down the block and back and did not hear any bad noises. Seemed to drive fine. I felt the rear end after test driving and did notice that the pinion flange area was warm to the touch. Any concerns about this?
Wes
Click to expand...

If the gears were going to make noise, it would generally be at higher speeds. If your final pattern looked like the last picture you posted they won't make noise and will last a really long time.

As for heat, the diff will get a bit hot for a little while because the bearings have to wear into each other a bit. The pinion bearing preload will actually drop by ~50% as the bearings break in. As long as you can hold your hand on the diff for a few seconds, you'll be ok.

Supposedly, the right way to break in gears is to get them hot and then immediately let them cool back down and then do the same thing again. Basically, drive the truck at 50-60 mph for 10-15 minutes and then park it for a couple hours. Change the fluid after 500-1000 miles.
 
Chris,
I'll do the break in as you suggested. Going to bed. It is late here in South Carolina. Hope to talk to you soon again on the forum. Happy 4 Wheelin Holidays!
Wes
 
Chris,
Break in went fine. No noise and got a little bit more low end torque now. Now I just need to replace the front gears with 4.11 and I will be good to go until the next project!
Thanks for the help again!
Wes
 
Chris,
Finished driving about 400 miles on my gear change and pulled the cover and did an inspection. The rear end makes noise when I turn and when I put the blazer on jack stands, I noticed that the rear axles move back and forth about an 1/8th of an inch. It seems too much play for me. Here is the latest gear pattern: http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj248/wesjoy70/IMG_6166.jpg
Let me know what you think.
Wes
 
pierce88K5 said:
Chris,
Finished driving about 400 miles on my gear change and pulled the cover and did an inspection. The rear end makes noise when I turn and when I put the blazer on jack stands, I noticed that the rear axles move back and forth about an 1/8th of an inch. It seems too much play for me. Here is the latest gear pattern: http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj248/wesjoy70/IMG_6166.jpg
Let me know what you think.
Wes
Click to expand...


The pattern still looks good, that's not where your noise is coming from.

If the axles move back and forth a bit its probably wheel bearings. Have you checked those?
 
Chris,
I replaced the wheel bearings when I changed out the gears. Could it be that the preload was not set right on the carrier bearings?
Wes
 
Are the carrier bearing caps still tight? (I'd assume they are if you're still getting a good pattern).

Is there a limited slip in this diff?

What do you mean when you say that the shafts move 1/8"? The only two things that center the shafts are the carrier and the wheel bearings.

While you have the cover off, I'd pull the shafts out and look at the wheel bearings and the bearing surfaces on the shafts.
 
Chris,
The axles move out and in about 1/8th of an inch. They don't move up and down. There seems to be too much slack at the c-clips holding the axles in place. The rear end is a limited slip also. The carrier bearings can be seen to shift slightly in the oil, but the caps are still on tight.
Wes
 
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