Corporate 10bolt Question

[strucky]

Hey Guys!

Had a question about the 10bolt. I noticed that they were 28 spline shafts and was wondering how they handle tires from a 35 to a 38? I now that the 28 spline's are a little dangerous on a jeep on a d35 and d30, but how are they on the corporate side? Will they with stand the weight and force of a 35" or 38"? I dont plan on doing much wheeling but when I do, i just want to make sure that it holds up and I dont have to bring extra shafts.

Thanks Fellas in advanced!

 

[Silver84k5]

bring extra shafts and u joints....

some people get away with 10 bolts, some dont. depends on your right foot, and luck... On the street, i dont think anything will break, if you drive it like a normal person...

that being said, this post wouldnt be complete without me telling you to just get a 60 lol. jk

 

[K5dreamer]

my personal opinion, based completely on internet experience and not with actually breaking stuff. youd probably be ok with 35's on the street, and maybe with light wheeling. 38's on a 10 bolt would give me gray hair. ive been running 33's on my M1009 (10 bolt front and rear) since i bought it. ive done light wheeling, pulled a few UPS trucks out of snow banks, and the like, and have yet to have any issues.

 

[01maroonz71]

ok..i ran 38's on an open 10bolt and IN THE MUD, you can make it work. that being said, i did break a shaft/ujoint(not sure which went first) on the street(where i had traction) trying to pull somebody out of a ditch. but my tires were cranked and i did give it hell. if your smart, you may make it work...but if you're throttle happy at all... just get a D60.

 

[strucky]

Thanks guys! I kinda figured it would be the same answer all around. I'm a light footed driver and know how to drive the vehicle in sticky terrain. I will keep it all in mind and bring the extra gear just incase.

Thanks again!

 

[strucky]

ok..i ran 38's on an open 10bolt and IN THE MUD, you can make it work. that being said, i did break a shaft/ujoint(not sure which went first) on the street(where i had traction) trying to pull somebody out of a ditch. but my tires were cranked and i did give it hell. if your smart, you may make it work...but if you're throttle happy at all... just get a D60.

Is that your truck on your avatar? if so what size tires your running and what axels?

Nice rig!

 

[gotblazers]

real men run rockwells

 

[Blue85]

Are you asking about front or rear?

The front 10-bolt is stronger than the rear since it is a full-floater. With an open diff, everybody says that 37 or 38 is the biggest tire you can run. The came in both 1/2-ton and 3/4-ton trucks.

The rear 10-bolt is good for 33's or 35's. A gov-lock is considered weaker than an open diff. With a locker it's probably only good for 33's.

From what I hear, upgrading to 30-spline axles is only a small improvement in strength.

 

[strucky]

Are you asking about front or rear?

The front 10-bolt is stronger than the rear since it is a full-floater. With an open diff, everybody says that 37 or 38 is the biggest tire you can run. The came in both 1/2-ton and 3/4-ton trucks.

The rear 10-bolt is good for 33's or 35's. A gov-lock is considered weaker than an open diff. With a locker it's probably only good for 33's.

From what I hear, upgrading to 30-spline axles is only a small improvement in strength.

I was asking in general. So the front is good up to the 37 - 38 range. I dont see the diffrence if they both are 28 splines f/r. I dont plan to take it on extreme stuff, just light terrain to get to some fishing holes and to get to some cool campsites.

 

[Blue85]

I dont see the diffrence if they both are 28 splines f/r.

There are many factors that affect strength besides the spline count of the axleshafts. Look up semi-floating vs. full-floating.

 

[chulisohombre]

anything above 35s and you will have a lot of problems other than breaking axles wheeling.it has a higher rolling force to begin with with the extra weight.so ball joints and wheel bearings will wear out faster as well.i usually go through a set of weheel bearings every couple of years when i drove mine everyday.and thats with 35s.using a good marine greese would help a lil bit as it has better water diversion and usually a higher heat rating.if you are light on the pedal while wheelin the r+p and shafts will last longer.but the extra force will eventually get the better of the axle.ive seen 1/2 tons last a long while before breaking and have seen some last one time out and snap like twigs.if you drive right and be easy on them they will last.keeping up on maintanence does a lot for them also.the rear is definitely the weak link though.with all the torque going to that axle most of the time it wears out much quicker than the front.a cheap easy swap would be a 14sf rear as it is about 50% sronger than th 10 bolt and can handle the torqu much better also.it is still a semi float axle but has a larger r+p and bigger bearings and shafts to handle more of a load.if you can find one close to the year of yours it is a direct swap except for the ujoint on the driveshaft i believe and is good up to 37 inch tire..

 

[strucky]

anything above 35s and you will have a lot of problems other than breaking axles wheeling.it has a higher rolling force to begin with with the extra weight.so ball joints and wheel bearings will wear out faster as well.i usually go through a set of weheel bearings every couple of years when i drove mine everyday.and thats with 35s.using a good marine greese would help a lil bit as it has better water diversion and usually a higher heat rating.if you are light on the pedal while wheelin the r+p and shafts will last longer.but the extra force will eventually get the better of the axle.ive seen 1/2 tons last a long while before breaking and have seen some last one time out and snap like twigs.if you drive right and be easy on them they will last.keeping up on maintanence does a lot for them also.the rear is definitely the weak link though.with all the torque going to that axle most of the time it wears out much quicker than the front.a cheap easy swap would be a 14sf rear as it is about 50% sronger than th 10 bolt and can handle the torqu much better also.it is still a semi float axle but has a larger r+p and bigger bearings and shafts to handle more of a load.if you can find one close to the year of yours it is a direct swap except for the ujoint on the driveshaft i believe and is good up to 37 inch tire..

Thanks Boss!

I dont plan to wheel it much I just want to bring it back to original condition with an aggressive look. I love the way it looks and I plan on keeping it original with the exception of the bigger tires. I appreciate the input and suggestions.

What is a 14sf? I was thiking putting some d44 or d60 in them to get it stronger.

Thanks again!

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Thanks Boss!

I dont plan to wheel it much I just want to bring it back to original condition with an aggressive look. I love the way it looks and I plan on keeping it original with the exception of the bigger tires. I appreciate the input and suggestions.

What is a 14sf? I was thiking putting some d44 or d60 in them to get it stronger.

Thanks again!

Full floating axles use bearings to take the weight of the truck that ride on their own spindle. This increases the load capacity of the axle and allows the axle shafts to serve the sole purpose of transferring torque.

On a semi floating axle (the SF you saw before) the wheel bearings ride right on the axle shaft. It's a weaker, cheaper to make design.

10 bolts and D44's are almost identical, there is certainly no strength gain to be had there.

As for the D60 thing, FF D60 rears aren't a big strength increase from a 10 bolt either, they have the same size shafts. D60 fronts (some of them) are the stout ones.

 

[strucky]

Full floating axles use bearings to take the weight of the truck that ride on their own spindle. This increases the load capacity of the axle and allows the axle shafts to serve the sole purpose of transferring torque.

On a semi floating axle (the SF you saw before) the wheel bearings ride right on the axle shaft. It's a weaker, cheaper to make design.

10 bolts and D44's are almost identical, there is certainly no strength gain to be had there.

As for the D60 thing, FF D60 rears aren't a big strength increase from a 10 bolt either, they have the same size shafts. D60 fronts (some of them) are the stout ones.

Thanks Chief!
What would you suggest be a decent set up to run thats affordable with the type of use I am going to use the k5 for?

 

[Blue85]

a cheap easy swap would be a 14sf rear as it is about 50% sronger than th 10 bolt and can handle the torqu much better also.it is still a semi float axle but has a larger r+p and bigger bearings and shafts to handle more of a load.if you can find one close to the year of yours it is a direct swap except for the ujoint on the driveshaft i believe and is good up to 37 inch tire..

This isn't entirely true. You can get an 8-lug 14sf that bolts right in, but since you have to change wheels (and maybe the front hubs to 8-lug to match) it isn't exactly "direct swap". There is also a 6-lug version, but the spring pads and shock mounts have to move. Or you can find both axles and swap axleshafts and brakes to make a bolt-in 6-lug swap. Very do-able, but requires some work.

Oh and most people rate the 14sf to 38" or 40" tires.

(Since he asks about 28-spline 10-bolts, I have to assume his rig is 88 or older)

 

[chulisohombre]

You can run what you got 4 now if you are easy on it.up to 35s you are ok as long as you are smart about the throttle and dont go 2 extreme rock climbin.the 14 bolt semi float axle came in the rear of light duty 3/4 ton trucks and can handle up to a 37 inch tire.it is in most cases a direct bolt in swap for your ten bolt rear.it also has the same 6 lug pattern as your current ten bolt so you dont have to get new rims.if you stay 35s run the ten bolts til they break,then you know you need to upgrade to bigger and better axles.

 

[strucky]

Thanks guys for the replies. I dont have a truck yet just getting opinions about the strength of the 10bolts. So I guess Im going to have to stay away from it. I want a 76 or older as I read that they come with d44's so I will be on the hunt. Thanks again. Let me know if there is anything else to look for?

 

[chulisohombre]

pre 76 it would have dana 44 front and 12 bolt rear.not much stronger than the 10 bolts.the older it is the more rust you are likely to find.late 80's had fuel injection and better mileage with overdrive tranny.so itll be more what you want to do with it than anything else.ive broken my 12 bolts 3 times and went 3/4 ton now to make sure it dont happen again.

 

[strucky]

pre 76 it would have dana 44 front and 12 bolt rear.not much stronger than the 10 bolts.the older it is the more rust you are likely to find.late 80's had fuel injection and better mileage with overdrive tranny.so itll be more what you want to do with it than anything else.ive broken my 12 bolts 3 times and went 3/4 ton now to make sure it dont happen again.

interesting! what 3/4 ton axels did you get?

 

[chulisohombre]

i have the dana 44 still, but i put 3/4 ton outer hubs spindles and backing plates on.it gives a slightly bigger inner bearing and bigger rotor for a lil better braking and also 8 lug to match the rear.then i took a 14 bolt full floater from a 3/4 ton pickup and put it in the rear.i then inboarded the shocks for better articulation and new shock mounts on th axle.3/4 ton will match spring perth width of half ton as long as you get single rear wheel pickup axle.then i matched the rear and replaced the ring and pinion with 4.10 in the front.havent had any issues since.