Correct dome light door jam switches 86 Blazer??

[Randy Horn Hunter]

I've read multiple posts, new and old, discussing the correct "self-adjusting" switch for 1986 and other years.
I've now bought and returned three sets of switches that were supposed to be the correct switch, but the sleeve does not push through the nut to match the door gap when you try to close the door.
I have bought Chinese from LMC, and what was labeled as GM parts that were pictured as brass like to OEM but what I got was Delco that looked just like the LMC Chinese part.
There is a good description of the problem with photos on the squarebody forum but does not help find the right switch that works.
Anyone got a lead on right part?

Anyone know how to get to this switch?

Thought maybe there would be access once the kick panel was removed.. Not so! It's solid sheet metal there.. Looked in the jamb.. Crawled underneath the truck to see if there was any access from underneath... Nope.. Is there some trick I'm missing, or are we expected to fish it through...

www.gmsquarebody.com

 

[Wes Harden]

Welcome @Randy Horn Hunter.

I am not sure what you mean, "the sleeve does not push through the nut to match the door gap" I took a look at the link you provided nothing there but a part number for 84 and up, as you said.

 

[Randy Horn Hunter]

if you scroll down in this post there is a photo for the switch in three stages

https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/anyone-know-how-to-get-to-this-switch.18085/

 

[Randy Horn Hunter]

Here is the explanation I have found several places.

OEM jamb switches from GM are adjustable. Not all cars/trucks have the same size gap in the door jamb switch area. To avoid having to produce a vehicle specific switch for every model, the switch is supplied with excess extension on purpose. The switch body is a press fit within the threaded bushing. The first time the door is closed, the switch is forced down deeper into the bushing - to a depth that conforms to the gap. By design, the switch body fit is tight to the ID of the bushing. This is so it does not move after the correct height is set. Consequently, it takes quite a bit of pressure to move the switch within the bushing at initial adjustment.

Read this:

Out of the box, a replacement switch may look a little too long when installed in the jamb, but it will self-adjust. The sleeve is very tight and requires a good amount of force to make it slide down into the nut.

You can also tap them down with a hammer carefully in a vise if you wish to set the height before the install. But, if you use a vise, make sure you don't over squeeze the nut.
and

Don't be concerned about the shoulder because once installed, gently close the door and longer shoulder-shank will press into the body.

Below is how setting the jamb switch should work. The top picture as it is right out of the box, the middle one after installing it - and closing the door to set the slide tube portion, and the bottom one shows an adjusted switch - with the door closed and breaking the female end connection ground.

 

[Wes Harden]

yes I understand now. My go to would be a soft face mallet, just to get it moving then see if the door will finish the adjustment.

 

[Randy Horn Hunter]

yes I understand now. My go to would be a soft face mallet, just to get it moving then see if the door will finish the adjustment.

Yep. Tried that and also a socket over it in a vice. Problem is that they are a solid piece not one piece inserted though another.

 

[dyeager535]

Yep, I've seen significant dents in the doors in that location before, I always assumed it was the wrong switch...