I found that the choke cam wasn't letting the primary shaft to close all the way. I took it apart and reassembled it. Not doing it now. I don't understand what was wrong either.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Correct ignition timing
- Thread starter Timgoheen
- Start date
choke cover spring may have been on the tight side
Pretty much the same results. 930rpm@7°. I can't lower the rpm any more. When I reconnect the vacuum advance, it's 31° at idle. I sprayed wd40 all around the carburetor flange, the sides of the intake. No change in rpm.
Frustration is kicking in pretty hard at this point.
Frustration is kicking in pretty hard at this point.
Could be leaking from the underside of intake,and or brake booster.
I prefer brake clean for vacuum leak checking. Though wd40 should work.
To check if under side of intake remove pcv from valve cover plug or tape over other valve cover breather port. Squirt a little brake clean in pcv valve cover grommet. If rpm changes thats it.
Edit sorry if we have gone over this step, I get all these driveability diagnosis threads jammed togeter and forget what we've done in each
I prefer brake clean for vacuum leak checking. Though wd40 should work.
To check if under side of intake remove pcv from valve cover plug or tape over other valve cover breather port. Squirt a little brake clean in pcv valve cover grommet. If rpm changes thats it.
Edit sorry if we have gone over this step, I get all these driveability diagnosis threads jammed togeter and forget what we've done in each
Last edited:
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2000
- Posts
- 9,121
- Reaction score
- 7,073
I agree with using brake clean, I know some use propane also. In your second pic in the rear barrels of the carb looks like there is something at an angle on the back side on top of the butterflies. I don't remember ever seeing that on a carb before.
I had some experience with holleys back in the day especially double pumpers. They can run well but I found them not to be consistent and needed alot of adjusting periodically to keep running well. I prefer Edelbrock, but better than that was the Carter quad.
On another note if you don't know the history of the hei return springs swapping them out can make a difference on idle and performance.
I had some experience with holleys back in the day especially double pumpers. They can run well but I found them not to be consistent and needed alot of adjusting periodically to keep running well. I prefer Edelbrock, but better than that was the Carter quad.
On another note if you don't know the history of the hei return springs swapping them out can make a difference on idle and performance.
I do have a recurve kit for the distributor. I really want to get it to idle like it should first though.
I think it might be the vacuum secondaries. If I plug the secondaries with rubber gloves, it dies. And I cant move the vacuum actuator rod.
few decades ago my friend in auto shop took apart his almost new holley 4160 and rebuilt it for class credits . he found some casting flashing in 1 of the passages . when he put it back on the car it was CRAZY how much better / harder the car pulled in the same road test as before . so do not trust a new carb if giving problems .
So,I changed the carb. That fixed the high idle/secondary leak issue. I still have the same problem with the timing though. 12° initial, 34° by 2900rpm,though it keeps advancing with increased rpms. Under load, lots of detonation.
Yes, they were when I checked rotor to piston position at tdc
Could the mechanical advance springs in the distributor cause this ?
I think that's what he's suggesting. The mechanical advance could be loose and slipping around. I think it's also possible to have slop between the vacuum can and the linkage.
Just back off the initial 3 or 4 degrees then. Your timing should end up somewhere around 33-36 degrees "all in" by 3000 ish rpm. Pinging under load is just telling you to back off the timing some. Don't get too hung up on the numbers, let the engine tell you where it is happiest.
This is what the inside of the distributor. Looks like. Heavier springs ?
the springs only control how fast the advance comes in. The shape of the weight and the center bar under the springs change how much mechanical advance you get.
MSD probably made that really loose and lots of advance
MSD probably made that really loose and lots of advance
So, should I put heavier springs on it ? I have the moroso 72300 recurve kit.
It seems to snap back pretty good
I gues what your saying is to feel how tight it is ? Or how easily it moves ?
