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Correct weld on yoke for carden joint?( square driveshaft build)

Richcz28

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I am starting to gether parts to make a square tube drive shaft. I have had an extra shaft sitting around but I think it will be easier to start fresh on this end. I don't know the exact name of this part though.

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That appears to be a front shaft. If so, I just cut the yoke off at the weld, and welded it to a 2"/ .25 wall square tubing that would then slide into a 2.5"/ .25 wall square tube. You will need to grind a groove where the weld will be to insure that no binding occurs. I just used a lot of bearing grease on the 2" tubing to help with lubrication. It needs to be as close to centered as possible to cut down on vibration. Obviously, it will never be balanced. I've run my square shaft for years with no problems other than breaking the double cardan. My has taken a beating as well. Hope this helps.
 
Maybe it doesn't matter but, wouldn't you want the larger, heavier shaft towards the t-case? Slightly less weight bouncing around on the end of the pinion and it's bearings. Obviously the shaft wont be in rotation while driving at road speeds but the weight will still be there. Maybe I'm just thinking too far into it.
 
There are a couple reasons I am putting the small 2 inch tube up top on the t-case side.

The yokes best match up in size this way.

I am worried about clearance up top.

Here is what I have for parts so far. I will be going to a machine shop in the morning hopefully to get the yokes precisely fit into the tubes before welding.

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Here is the parts chart from the shop I got the carden yoke at.

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I can't get one picture to upload correctly anymore, and my tapatalk built in camera button now has an error message so I hope you have a laptop to manually adjust if you would like to read that.
 
yolk = eggs

yoke = driveshafts

:D



BTW... if your only locked in the front when off road, you can clamp everything up in a vise .... use a level to square up the yokes and you will be fine... I built my square shaft this way and it runs true enough for off road use...
 
Haha I'm with ya. I think my iPhone botched it in the title.
 
All welded up. Im glad I got the yokes machined. They fit perfect and this will take the rotational force off the welds. I had the lower slip yoke cut down to the fatter section so it would take up less space in the shaft.

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Correct weld on yoke for carden joint?

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Welded on a cap on the inner and tapped for a plug. This way I can try filling with oil part way to keep balanced.

It collapses till just smaller than the original shaft and measures 25 inches vs 26 and extends to 42 inches with 2 inches overlap vs 30 so I don't think it will ever be too short again.

I will still be adding grease fittings to the outer shaft.

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ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21368228085.433905.jpgdriveshaft shop by me spun it for fun. Only got to 470 rpms before it shook like death. Idk how fast it rotates when in use but they said they run round shafts up to 3000. I'm bringing it back after grease and oil to spin again. Only the cardan side is really shaky, the axle side was relatively ok.

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So far so good. Any specific questions? I have about 6,000( not all in 4x4 but on my truck, but lot's of wheeling in between) miles on it. I have hit speeds of 45 mph on sand dunes. I have hit it off rocks. I have sunk it...

I never put on grease fittings. I decided it would be better to pull half the shaft off to re-grease. My first re-grease will be this weekendish.
 
Nothing specific. Thanks though. I can't wait to get my bottle filled so I get to welding.

Thanks for posting pics and starting this thread!
 
A little update.

Because I put an overdrive unit in I had lengthen my front driveshaft. I just welded an extra 6 inches on.

I have had it in 4 wheel in the snow up to speeds of about 15 mph and so far so good.

I also switched my front bolts to allen heads, because the old hex heads were all chewed up from rocks and not fun to take out. I hope the allens hold up longer.

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