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Cost to re-gear axles

F

FL84K5

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I'm thinking about making the drive to look at a pristine 1991 Blazer that's about 5 hours from me. It looks like it has a six inch lift and is running 35x12.50s. According to the ad, the axle ratio is 3.08, which, if correct, is less than ideal. Since the truck is priced pretty high, I'd like to use this as a negotiating point and wanted to get a ballpark idea of the cost to re-gear the axles to a more appropriate ratio. I'm not really concerned about putting in one tons, since this won't really be used off road. Thanks!
 
I would figure a total for both axles, professionally done, would run about two thousand dollars, for quality gear sets, all bearings, seals, labor, fluids, etc.
 
It cost me just a hair over $800 for parts to do mine back in July. That's gears, bearings, pinion/inner seals, shims. And that's probably on the lower end of what one could scrounge up. I have a 60/14 BTW.
 
I'd definitely say closer to $2000 for both axles. Gears alone are about $500, new seals/bearings $250 and then labor.
 
best bang for the buck 3/4 ton axle swap .

craigslist / chat forums / clubs look for some axles for sale. thay will mostly have 4.10 gears in them and bolt in basicly.

or if you realy want 6 lug still look for a used pair that already done for sale that thay have removed for upgrade.

but if you want you can upgrade the gears in yours. but 2k should be full retail shop price done out the door.

unless you have the tools and know how on how to do it your self then you can save money .

and read up on here for others with 35" tires and overdrive trans in there trucks. most all will tell you if over drive tranny in rig = go as DEEP as you can or you WILL wish you had later. the deepest gear help the over drive tranny stay in overdrive and convortor locked up @ highway speed's .

also play with this calc to give you a idea on rpm's at speed's http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

hope this helps you get the best bang for your buck and have fun the fastest way possible.
 
If you stay 6 lug...

There are plenty of OEM 3.73 axles around. Cheapest out if that's enough gear for you is to locate 3.73 axles and swap them out. Sell your old axles to offset cost.

If 4.10 is what you need, locate a K20/K2500 front axle, swap out everything spindle out with yours and regear rear.
 
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on the cheap....

$100 each install kit
$200 each gear set
$200-$350 each axle for install

This is what I spent...
$150 each instal kit
$200/$250 gears
$325 each axle (included a detroit locker install in rear and spartan in front 60/14)

Doing better on parts would require finding some used sets or previously purchased new sets on CList. I actually got my new 14b detroit and 1410 yoke for $330 shipped, by keeping my eyes open. :D
 
185 or or so for a better master install kit.

130 or so for a cheaper one.

You will need 2 of those.

I have put the cheaper one in plenty of rigs. They are just fine. Also since the front axle doesn't spin very much I would absolutely put the cheaper one in the front.

Gears, Yukon gears are going to be around 250, there are places where you can certainly find them cheaper, but if put this in your cost it should cover most everything.

GM factory gears are stupid expensive. Less expensive gears are going to be around 180 or so.

so for pretty good stuff you will be close to 900 for parts.

I think from talking to poeple that own shops the price for gears widely varies.

I do em for 250 an end. Thats on the cheap side. The expensive side is closer to 500 an end.

IMHO if they are charging any thing more than 400 an end if you look you will be able to find a better deal
 
I paid $1325 to go from 3.08s to 4.10s including parts and a front locker. My axles were out of the truck so the guy did the install for 125/axle.
 
I'm gonna go crazy here, but were 3.08's even offered?

I'd write down the axle RPO codes, research what gears the '91's were offered with, and go look in the glovebox.

I haven't dealt with the later (TBI) trucks to much, but it seemed to me that 3.08's pretty much died about the time TBI came on the scene?

Far cheaper to swap axles than to re-gear.
 
dyeager535 said:
I'm gonna go crazy here, but were 3.08's even offered?

I'd write down the axle RPO codes, research what gears the '91's were offered with, and go look in the glovebox.

I haven't dealt with the later (TBI) trucks to much, but it seemed to me that 3.08's pretty much died about the time TBI came on the scene?

Far cheaper to swap axles than to re-gear.
Click to expand...

My 89 diesel had 3.08s stock
 
Was that with 700R4?

I can see it non-OD and/or diesel, but don't see too many of those. But now i know those wonderful gears kept on going. :(
 
I wish I had 3.08s, I was stuck with 2.73s and a tired 305. But definitely do 3/4 ton swap, you could buy new steel wheels and still have spent less than regearing.
 
I threw my 3.08 geared axles out to scrap. Th400/Np208. Yea I too think it's cheaper to just get some 3/4 ton or 1 ton used axles. See cheap ones all the time on KSL.com. Saw a 14 bolt with 4.10 for only $50!

Heck! I'll sell ya my 3/4 ton axles for $300! BING
 
K85 Octane said:
on the cheap....

$100 each install kit
$200 each gear set
$200-$350 each axle for install
Click to expand...

I've done gear swaps in 3 axles and paid like $200-$250 for the gear set and $75-$150 for the install kit. Did them myself. I currently have a 4.88 set in the front that I got used from a local race shop for $90. You'll pay more for 1-ton parts than 1/2-ton parts.

The tools are not terribly expensive, either. You just need a beam inch-lb wrench, a dial indicator and hopefully a bearing seperator. Calipers are nice for stacking shims, but many new ones have thickness stamped on them.

If you have time for the axles to be apart for a while, you can save money by inspecting first and then deciding which bearings should be replaced. A "master overhaul kit" is more about saving labor cost than a longevity guarantee. Under good conditions the bearings can last nearly forever. I would usually prefer keeping good stock bearings over putting in new cheap ones, too.

Also, instead of paying for 35 shims, 3 of which will actually go in your axle, you can buy individual ones online (if this is really a background project) or from a local driveline shop. I've gone in and gotten my shims for <$1 or free because of all the leftover kit parts they have laying around.
 
I'll cast another vote for the 3/4 ton swap. The price I paid for the axles plus new wheels, brake parts, seals, bearings, ujoints, etc was still cheaper than a front and rear axle regear, plus there is the advantage of more strength and the fact that the axles are basically new since every wear part was replaced.
 
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