could use advice, and build thread "to do" list

[88bigburb]

OK, here goes, i tend to have a very disorganized extensive list of things to do to my vehicles, so i'm gonna try to break it all down, maybe get some advice, and get it done in portions, and actually get it done..... so here goes

75 k5 blazer, body in bad shape but cosmetically... ok-ish
stock d44/12 bolt, 3.07 gears, no suspension lift, as far as i can tell, negative arch springs up front and all, ~4 inch body lift, consists of 3-4 hockey pucks in some places, and square steel with caps welded on in others, 36 inch tires on 15 inch wheels, slipping th350/np203,

TO DO:

swap out th350 for th400 i already have, never installed by me, taking under good faith that trans and case work. What all is involved in a transmission swap? Like what do I go with for a torque converter?

remove non inspectable body lift, install new urethane mounts/maybe a 1-inch lift
- not sure yet if i have all the stock cups/washers for the mounts, gonna get under and compare to lmc catalog to see what i've got, they offer poly now, but the kit has 8 less pieces than the rubber, so is it complete? if anybody has used lmc's urethane offering, personal experience's as far as ride and completeness would be great.
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/csb/full.aspx?Page=35

STEERING
Intending to install a lift so steering correction will be needed
- ORD steering brace, and repair patch if necessary.
- I would like to go with the drop pitman option, what one do I need? I would eventually like to go crossover, if I swap to the 2wd box now could I get a pitman that will work for both?

BRAKES / 8-LUG
- I already have 8 lug wheels from my suburban so I like that idea. Last year I picked up a pair of cucv rears from the local junk-yard for $300 rear complete, front only out to the knuckles. I figured 300 bucks for a locker was a good buy,
- I recently picked up a late model rear with disk brakes, and from what I read I can swap the gears from the cucv into the late model with only minimal setup
- I was contemplating swapping the stock front 44 to 8 lug for now but that makes little sense I suppose, but for saving money it would be the better option.
- Should I buy all the parts to complete my front 60(spindles may still be good, but I wouldn’t put money on it, hubs, lockouts, and all bearings and seals, plus rotors, calipers, and studs), or should I pick up a complete front for 600-700
- What kind of master cylinder will I need? I know I’ve read that the JB7 code ones from 88-90ish suburbans works well in aftermarket rear disk swaps, should I start there? Then get a proportioning valve if need be?
- I’m guessing with the brake components I already outlined, everything will be metric, will I need a complete new set of lines? Should I buy pre-bent or can I like buy a spool and bend it myself?
- Parking brake…. Entire reason for late model rear, has anybody swapped one of these into a blazer? What cables did you use? Did you have to get custom made ones?
- Wheel studs, I’d definitely like to have all matching studs, metric or sae, I don’t really care which, just matching,

SUSPENSION LIFT
- I’m thinking 4” suspension lift. Tuff country front springs, and DIY4X shackle flip
- I found a thread about using stock super duty shocks with a 4 inch lift and riding great, I would love to have a nice riding vehicle, so I’m thinking this, unless somebody has an alternate option for kinda cheap, bilsteins are gonna be a bit, I already have a heck of a pricetag building up, lol

I guess final step is get driveshafts to fit, stuff on the 38’s and start hacking away at the sheetmetal, anything I missed please chime
in, I’ll appreciate any help

 

[down4thakrown]

38's and with a 4'' lift and not having the axle moved fwd at is goin to rub bad. and you will chew your tires up. even if you chop your fenders they will still rub the tub. put some stock 52's up front for a 4 inch lift and you will be able to run 38's with out rubing. and they will be cheaper then new tc springs. if you gota buy the actual rotating hubs for your 60, you mite be better off finding a complete axle ready to bolt in. and try selling what you have. if you get a 2wd gear box im pretty sure your goin to have to go cross over. but im sure you could find a lifted steering block for a 60 to make it work witha 4wd box. i would do the weld in brace kit even if your frame isnt cracked along with the bolt in brace too. when you swap out the th350 for the th400, your goin to need to change the torque converter, and the input shaft on your transfer case and find the adapter to fit. you mite have better luck finding a 205 tcase ready to drop in. also the th400 uses a electronic button for the kick down.
and shop around for the body bushings. im pretty sure you can find them cheaper then lmc.

 

[supersize75k5]

Is your current 350 ok or is it bad?

If your is ok and you have an unknown 400 I'd hold off until you have it gone through. Also there is no way I'd be swapping a trans combo. And messing with t-case swapping unless I was gaining some gearing. Maybe look into a 241 ? Gives you the option in the future for a 241/205 doubler too


For the 60 you can get quartered and dollared to death on them, the hubs are not cheap "just paid 450.00 for some, then you have bearings, rotors, studs.." I'd find a complete one and part yours.


For the brakes, a porpotioning valve is easy to add in, try it and see how it acts with out it first, some people like it with out it, others need to swap one right away. I have had it go both ways for myself.

For the master, they sell adapters so no need to go crazy with new hard lines. Also iirc some crossover/ work anyways.


For crossover, you will need different parts in the future, if your tre's and such are shot anyways and you w I'll have the steering box off too..and messing with springs I would reason now would be a great time to do the 60 and cross over. I'd go standard on your studs and swap the rears out.



Trevor at wfoconcepts can set you up with the pitman arm, steering arm, dragline with a bend and new tre's all in one shot and he rocks.




If your trans is good I would split this into a few different project, get the axles and steering parts ready and buy some pizza and beers for your friends and post a build thread if you want help or quick advice as you go. good luck.

 

[88bigburb]

thanks guys i appreciate the help so far greatly. first off, my current tranny slips like crazy, i bought it with 36's on it, i put 30x9.5s on it and its drivable, but the tires are nearly shot. the tranny i'm intending to put in is a clean looking th400/np203 combo, has a jasper tag on the trans, so i'm just hoping/assuming its good, and i figure if i'm gonna need to sink money into a tranny, i'd rather put it into a 400 rebuild than a 350. thats y the project is all kindof interconnected. and dang total buzzkill on the springs, i was hoping it was do-able with just 4 inch lift springs. how well would it work with the springs plus a zero rate moved 1.5 forward? its really very upsetting, i helped a buddy of mine cram 37's under his stock 99 4Runner, and it was functional as long the passenger didnt weigh 375#, lmao.

 

[TheBeast_88K5]

WFO rocks....

This is a 6" lift, w/ 37" Military Tires....And, a good amount of trimming.

 

[88bigburb]

I live the genuine junkyard parts sticker, but from what I'm seeing that's really minor trimming, I still see factory wheel arch, I'm looking for a look with heavy trimming, can it be done?

 

[88bigburb]

Ok good deal, how do you think 4 inch tc front springs with zero-rates moving the axle forward an inch and a half? I'm not really opposed to cutting the tub as well if need be,