Cowl Induction

[454Sub]

Not the typical hood design, I was wondering if anyone has ever cut into the wiper cowling from inside the engine compartment, created a custom airbox, and hooked it up so the engine draws air from the slotted cowling? Basically where the slots for where the wipers are draws air in, since it is a positive pressure zone, vs have an open element inside the engine compartment. I seen it on a few show cars, and was wondering if anyone ever attempted this before. I have been looking for a way to get the airfilter covered, without using the restrictive factory airbox cover thing. This seems like a decent alternative abeit some work.

 

[93Blazed]

Sounds like a lot of work if your asking. Wouldn't it be easier to just get a K&N system and be all done? It's the last engine mod that I need to do to my 93 Blazer. Right now in the summer months I run an Edlebrock cover on a taller filter. Looks like crap but gives me the air I need. The K&N's are so nice and clean looking and get rid of all that extra garbage GM put on.

93Blazed

 

[ryoken]

not exactly what you asked for, but......

just need to finish off some bodywork under the hood and get it in primer/paint...

pretty certain it's the first square body cowl induction done with a sealed airpan...

I've considered adding the vac operated flapper from chevelle/camaro fame down the road... i have about 1/2 the parts already from a chevelle build..





[youtube]K6Plv8-zTxI[/youtube]




but for now it'll just be a tight expanded steel screen at the back trimmed in round rod to keep the leaves and gargoyles out......

 

[93Blazed]

Yeah now that makes more sense and no hacking up the cowl and firewall. My 48" Ford F1 Rat Rod is hacked up. We used the original cowl flip up vent and boxed it under the dash then back through to the engine. Took the stock linkage and modified it so that it opens with the throttle linkage on my the Holley that sit's on top of the 389 Pontiac that's under the hood. It's pretty cool to see it open the more you step on the gas.

93Blazed

 

[454Sub]

Well, I thought it was different than the normal way most do it, and the hoods are expensive. Thats my main hurdle with it. Winter time is construction layoff time, so my money tree isnt producing like it should be. I dont have a problem with the amount of air I get. I have a 14in K@N with the matching K@N lid, so amount isnt the problem, its water and associated unpleasantness that doesnt normally burn in the combustion process that worries me more.

But taking Ryokens picture, I was thinking about basically copying that design, except where the foam is, that would be metal, with basically a matching lid on top, so the hood doesnt seal the box as in his case. And where his 90's up in the back, thats where I had thought of cutting through the cowl and sealing that all together. Possibly making a diverter/antidrain back system to prevent water from running into the airbox and out the normal fender drains when it rains or I wash it. Being my job is sheetmetal crafting, the work doesnt scare me, since I do it for a living, I just wondered if anyone else had undertook something similar.

Thanks Ryoken for the pic, actually helpful being now I can visualize what I want a little easier.

 

[ryoken]

your's could work.. obviously just keep in mind you need some flexable section somewhere in the mix for drivetrain movement.....

 

[454Sub]

Most of my real job consists of large NG or LPG powered heaters and the associated ductwork connecting them to wherever they go. We have what is basically a almost canvas material that we use to connect the hanging heaters or furnaces to the fixed ductwork, for the obvious reason of shaking itself to pieces. They can be made rather easily in any size or shape taking into consideration of the laws of ductwork. I can have one built and somehow fixed to both the cowl, which I think will be a permanent attachment, and to the airbox, with something more easily removable. Maybe something of an S and Drive system like what is commonly used on your regular household HVAC systems.

 

[ryoken]

oh, and for the record... in my case, it was expensive, that cowl hood, being a 4" was about 800 to me.. obviously it can be done with the lower 3" metal or glass $300 to 400 ones too..

 

[454Sub]

Yes, that had crossed my mind, I have always just personally loved the flat factory type hoods. With my truck being so tall, Im afraid the taller bit of the cowl will make forward visibility even worse than it already is. And I cant justify a 2in cowl hood for 400$ plus the work and paint to get it ready. I need alot of other parts that I could buy with that money, like a grill, bezels, obviously important chrome exhaust tips, and ect. And, like I said, its just a lil bit different than most everything else, and I kinda like that about it.

 

[454Sub]

And secondly, my family has 4 lifted Subs. My dad has a 00 with 3in lift, 33s, and a blown 5.3 with a cowl hood. My brother has a 91 with a 6.0, 9in lift and 38in swampers, my cuz has an 03 with 2.5 tons and 64in tractor tires with a 6.0. And then my 90 with 11in, roller 7.4 and 40s. So its also a friendly rivalry

 

[ryoken]

I'm a HUGE cowl induction guy.. love em, owned a 1/2 dozen chevelles with em, one functional.. I think they look awesome, especially if the stockish lines are retained.. not a fan of other fancy, swoopy similar "cowl induction hoods"...

thats why i love my 4" one so much, it has just that slightly cartoonish, over stock size, look... like an old Revell model!

but obviously the obstructed vision has to be taken into account, something I'm obviously willing to live with.....

make sure to take pics... what material ya gonna use?

 

[454Sub]

My dad just sold his 70 Chevelle SS with a functional one on it. Nice car.

The materials are still up in air so far. I have limited "big tools" for that part. Since I am union, we dont have to have brakes, power/hand operated rolls, foot or power shears, edgers, Pittsburg machines, ect to form and shape said metal. I plan on buying these items, but that would run me into the thousands and thats a little unrealistic right now

Leading me to my next problem. Originally I wanted 1/8in aluminum, but without a roll it would be next to impossible to do it, as we all know aluminum brakes over once, the breaks the next time. Plus edging after the roll without an edger would be physically impossible, as no tool can do it. So I considered stainless, but stainless destroys snips, drill bits, and anything used to shape it besides tongs and hammers. So, Im considering mild steel, as it can be easily shaped, cut, and formed with what hand tools I have. Plus I have sheets upon sheets of it from various jobs and other things I have needed in the past. Exactly what I want, no, but I figure I can build one now out of steel, then when I have access to a shop, build one out of polished aluminum or stainless, and TIG it all together, vs riveting the steel box.

 

[ryoken]

sure, the trial one vs the finished one, i know full well..

the original skid was steel...

 

[454Sub]

Well if that isnt a thing of beauty Im not sure what is. I think Im just going to bite the bullet and whip out the grinder in the AM and see what happens. Worst to worst if I dont like the outcome I can always patch it back up, I mean its under the hood, no one can see it, except through the removed wheelwells, and its basically a mud truck with a decent paintjob, so no worries either way.

 

[Chevy305]

I have a 2" cowl hood and have zero visibility problems.

 

[454Sub]

Mine is quite a bit taller than yours though. Through our local stuff I have a hard enough time seeing infront of me, the 2in cowl wont help any. Plus they are just pricey, and the idea I seen was something different from what everyone normally does, making the idea seem that much more cool to me.

 

[ljense8]

I am definitely interested in the results of this experiment. Seems like it could work pretty slick as long as you have a way to keep the water out, which it seems like you have that figured out.

 

[ARAMP1]

I always wanted to do something like this with mine, ala 2002-ish Duramax HD hood.

Please disregard that this crew cab has a negative lift installed.

 

[82355]

Post pics when you're done.

Martin

 

[454Sub]

Nice crewcab, regardless of negative lift.

Im now in the process of moving stuff around. My coil was mounted to the firewall because there wasnt any room for it on the intake, so I am trying to find a place for it. There is some wiring that will have to be moved around, and a positive feed fusible link thing that I will have to move somewhere probably. I have it roughed out in a grease pencil, but I havent taken the effort to do any of that math or measuring type stuff yet. Doesnt look like it will be on par with a full on frame off resto of a 70 Chevelle or anything, but it is a lil bit of cutting and plugging. Im thinking this week Im lettin loose with the cuttin tools.