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Cracked bellhousing.

Vombrown

Mountain Man
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Great Falls mt
The nv4500 I picked up for my project truck is the 95 specific bellhousing with the low passenger side slave cylinder. Previous owner knocked a chunk out of the tunnel that covers the clutch fork and activation from the slave cylinder. No damage or cracks in the bellhousing other than this piece missing about the size of a silver dollar. I really like the location as I will be running a ford 205 so the less crap I can get on the drivers side the better.

Run it or toss it? Problem is those bastards are NOT cheap....I thought I had a line on a replacement that ended up not working. I think if I grind all the edges smooth where it took the hit it would be ok honestly. But I've not had one like this. Usually the ones I see are cracked at the bolt holes or ears, this one is perfect other than this chunk missing.
 
Of course if I run it as is, I can make a sheet metal cover for the hole to keep the stupid out.
 
Do you have a tig? I would melt that cast AL into a puddle if I tried to weld it, but someone more skilled than me could weld it right up. I'm sure you already know about that option though.
 
Do you have a tig? I would melt that cast AL into a puddle if I tried to weld it, but someone more skilled than me could weld it right up. I'm sure you already know about that option though.

yeah it's on a corner and I don't have the piece. I could certainly cut it out and make a piece to tig back in there but what I've seen of those types of repairs, it usually stress cracks at the weld.
 
Pics. As you can see it doesn't go into the actual bell at all. Just the tunnel cover for the fork. I know, I gotta clean it up but I had not thought of running it until now.

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I think I remember him saying he busted a u joint and the shaft smashed the corner. I wouldn't have to worry about that happening again...HA!
 
Pics. As you can see it doesn't go into the actual bell at all. Just the tunnel cover for the fork. I know, I gotta clean it up but I had not thought of running it until now.

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View attachment 258558

It looks like the crack will spread if it's not welded up or drilled out. And I'd worry about the casting snapping under loading from the slave cylinder. But I think it can be corrected. It's not as bad as my bell housing... :whistle:


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I'd likely clean it all up really good and weld it up. I busted a lip of an aluminum rim once. Built up the weld carefully shaped it and been driving on it since
 
I had my buddys dad who owns a welding shop weld up my alumimum t case extensions housing.... it made it through the "launch" at Dunefest and still works fine
 
Speaking of cracked bell housings..

I have this TH350 that came with a 307 V8 I bought not long ago--have no idea if its any good,but the fluid looks clean and isn't burnt smelling,I wouldn't be surprised if it is still good..

It has a "C" shaped chunk taken out of the bell housing ,the upper right hand corner,where the dipstick tube would bolt to the upper bell bolt..I assume someone tightened that bolt before it was flush against the engine trying to draw it in ,and it cracked there...only other thing I can think of is it got whacked by a hammer or something ?..

You guys think it would live if I used it as-is ?...no cracks in the bell housing,though the gunk on it makes it appear there are some,I looked inside and there is none showing ,just that chunk is missing,so it would only have 5 out of 6 bolts holding it to the engine..

I have used a Buick automatic on a Chevy using only the 4 bolts that lined up without a hitch in a car years ago,I wasn't drag racing it and it never seemed to matter for all the street driving I did with it..the transmission was free ,and my car wouldn't move,so I didn't have much to lose..cracked bell housing and carberator adaptor 005.jpg cracked bell housing and carberator adaptor 004.jpg cracked bell housing and carberator adaptor 003.jpg
 
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