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cracked tcase

gonefishin

gonefishin

1/2 ton status
Joined
Apr 22, 2010
Posts
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Location
Carthage tx
ok so i thought that my seal was leaking on my tcase so i replaced it and when i started filling it up again i found that it was cracked i must have done it when i bent my frame last time i went wheelin

i am thinking about taking it to work and mig welding it anyone think it won't hold? i don't have access to a tig or i would do that i would feel a little better about that anyways i have had an aluminum front diff case welded before and it held for years

my tcase is a 241 and i just went through it and put 32 spline input shaft in it so i don't really want to replace it and i don't really have the cash to either maybe one of our welders would chime in on this for me i am trying to have it ready for this weekend my local offroad park is having a big event and don't wanna miss it

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If it turns out that you can not repair the crack, save the Planetaries out of the 241, and build a doubler.
 
i have been wanting to build a doubler but i can't quit breaking stuff long enough to get it started or gather parts lol everytime i go out i break something expensive

first trip was a trans and alternator

second was exhaust system water pump and the front bumper

third was the brand new exhaust system and 2 days later the trans then the

4th was the trans again then

5th was the frame and tcase lol there was a couple little runs mixed in there too with minor breakage but you get the point lol
 
first trip was a trans and alternator

second was exhaust system water pump and the front bumper

third was the brand new exhaust system and 2 days later the trans then the

4th was the trans again then

5th was the frame and tcase lol there was a couple little runs mixed in there too with minor breakage but you get the point lol
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I've seen that pattern of damage before. Its almost always caused by the same problem.

A too weak accelerator spring...........:D

Get one that takes about 30 pounds to push it down and you will find the level of other damage goes down considerably.
 
Fordum said:
I've seen that pattern of damage before. Its almost always caused by the same problem.

A too weak accelerator spring...........:D

Get one that takes about 30 pounds to push it down and you will find the level of other damage goes down considerably.
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I agree!!! Mines got 2 springs and its like pushing a brick lol, really makes it harder to slam on it when you dont mean to lol. I like it though, I get in other cars now and drive and im like oh crap did i just squeel out in the van?? Lol oops.
 
Better carry a spare accelerator cable if you put that 30 lb throttle return spring on it!....it'll stress it to the breaking point quickly!..:rolleyes:
 
Actually I was trying to tell him in a cute way if he would back off on the skinny pedal some when he is in bad places it would save him a lot of time and money.

However, I have driven one with a really weak spring and it was way too easy to overpower the situation.........
 
Deuling said:
I agree!!! Mines got 2 springs and its like pushing a brick lol, really makes it harder to slam on it when you dont mean to lol. I like it though, I get in other cars now and drive and im like oh crap did i just squeel out in the van?? Lol oops.
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diesel4me said:
Better carry a spare accelerator cable if you put that 30 lb throttle return spring on it!....it'll stress it to the breaking point quickly!..:rolleyes:
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Nice.

Some people just don't get good sarcasm. :haha:
 
This is a complete uneducated guess but couldnt you use some JB Weld on that as a temp. fix? Now that being said, i wouldnt go take it out to some "big" event afterwords. But if your looking for a quick fix it might be worth the shot?
 
Fordum said:
I've seen that pattern of damage before. Its almost always caused by the same problem.

A too weak accelerator spring...........:D

Get one that takes about 30 pounds to push it down and you will find the level of other damage goes down considerably.
Click to expand...
I thought the NV241 was suppose to be the better of the aluminum case t-case. Shouldn't it handle the awesome power of a stock 350 tbi? :dunno:
 
Slapperbar said:
Not when the truck drops on it.
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Isn't that true for all t-cases? Granted the aluminum t-cases are the weakest for this kind of ****. The cast iron t-cases can stand up that kind of ****, but the adapters and transmission cases don't. That is why you should have skid plates.
 
gonefishin said:
ok so i thought that my seal was leaking on my tcase so i replaced it and when i started filling it up again i found that it was cracked i must have done it when i bent my frame last time i went wheelin

i am thinking about taking it to work and mig welding it anyone think it won't hold? i don't have access to a tig or i would do that i would feel a little better about that anyways i have had an aluminum front diff case welded before and it held for years

my tcase is a 241 and i just went through it and put 32 spline input shaft in it so i don't really want to replace it and i don't really have the cash to either maybe one of our welders would chime in on this for me i am trying to have it ready for this weekend my local offroad park is having a big event and don't wanna miss it
Click to expand...

Double post time, honestly I'm not trying to pad.
Anyway, is that a drivers drop 241? I can't really tell since I've never owed one. If it is, shouldn't those be really plentiful? I can't image those being blown up left and right in the IFS trucks. The front end is suppose to blow up as soon as you put those trucks into 4low.
 
Sorry I guess sarcasm against sarcasm doesn't work....:crazy:...

Any T-case can crack when your 3 ton truck lands on it...cast iron is stronger but isn't indestructable either...

My friend had a 2001 Malibu he put a used tranny in,and it came from a wrecked car,it had 29K and was perect except for one thing--it had a small crack about 2" long on one side close to one of the mounting bolt pads for the tranny mount--accident must have cracked the trans...rather than just rip the tranny back out after all that work,he showed the owner the crack,and said maybe epoxy would seal it up--it was a steady tiny stream squirting out under pressure too...the guy said go ahead and try it,so he bought some J-B Weld Putty and sanded the case clean and used brake cleaner on the crack after dropping the pan (he wanted to change the filter too ,as the tranny sat awhile in the boneyard)..then he smashed the putty on firmly and let it sit 2 hours,and put the pan back on and filled it back up--no more lleak!--we all had bets on how long it would hold,I guessed a week--but we are still waiting for it to even weep,its gone 35K miles since the tranny was put in last spring!....guy has driven it to Chicago and Florida too....but he dont burn rubber either....I suppose one good reverse to drive shock could loosen the putty up....
I've had J-B Waterwelld putty on my oil pan more than 3 years and though its now weeping again,the puuty is still sticking firm,I think the pan rusted away around it!...
 
i may need to rethink my idea of how hard to press the skinny pedal when i am wheelin and i say that looks like fun people start putting their seat belts on lol

my case is a pass drop so not too many of them out there

i pulled it out when i got home the crack is about 6-7 inches long and is going to be hard to weld going to have our welder at work take care of it on lunch tomorrow i am not as good on alum. as he is so i am going to let the pro do it
 
while we are on the subject...... anyone ever weld up a cracked t-400 case at the tail shaft end ???

I have a nice T-475 built up that has a hairline crack where the adapter bolts to the case......

hate to toss the case if it can be welded successfully...
 
Iknow a guy who can perform miracles with a welder..seen him weld a broken aluminum block on a BMW V8 engine a salvafe yard sold someone that was low miles and ran perfectly,but during the engine remoal a big chunk of the bellhousing was busted off--they kept the busted part with the engine and sold it to the customer for scrap value,it was the only engine available in a 500 mile radius,so the guy took the chance on it...the guy who welded it did such a nice job you can hardly tel where it was welded..

.he's done many other things like cracked tranny bellhousings,tail shafts,T-cases and other aluminum parts..as long as it is aluminum and not zinc or die cast usually it can be welded nicely IF you have the right welder and the skills needed...I dont know if this guy uses a MIG or a TIG ,but his welds look like perfection...wish I had his skills..
 
well i got him to weld it today and no leaks we will see how it holds up it don't look pretty but thats ok lol
 
lots of aluminum welds dont liik good. but if thay hold thats all that matters.

did he tig / or mig/spool gun it?

tig is 10x better if you ask me on aluminum stuff.
 
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