Long, but questions are at the bottom...
Okay, the crate install this weekend had problems and the rig is still in pieces. There were many small issues, but no big deal. Those can be dealt with. But, the biggest issue is the oil pump and priming. Got a primer from the local Autozone. Because of the oil cooler, we decided to prime it with the engine installed.
After we got the engine in, we hooked up the tool, connected it to a variable speed (max 2500RPM) pnuematic drill, removed a valve cover to check for priming. After about eight minutes with the drill at max speed, there was no evidence of anything coming from the pushrods. We stopped and I removed the tool. It had oil all up around the lower collar and appeared to be going right. We also loosened the filter to make sure it was doing something and, yes, the filter was full. We figured the delay could have just been from having to pump oil into the filter and fill it up as well as having to pump it through the cooler.
We hooked it all back up again and started the drill back up. After a few seconds, the drill bound up and stopped (not much torque, which is fine). Removed the tool and the upper collar that is clamped by the distributor clamp had bound to the priming tool. We had to press it off and run the tool without it. (Maybe the big mistake) Put the tool back in and ran it at max RPM for another 12 minutes (20 minutes total). There was never any sign of oil from the pushrods. Removed the tool and noticed that the "key" in the bottom of the tool was rounded practically completely smooth. Put a screwdriver down toward the oil pump shaft and noticed it had a lot of play side-to-side. Thought we sheared something. Drained all the oil and it had a lot of small metal sparkle in it. Pulled the pan and it, too, had the metal shavings. The oil filter (after we cut it open) was also full. Pulled the pump and noticed that the top of the oil drive shaft was rounded it the middle.
It looks like the tool didn't seat right. And, without the top collar, it tended to move some. The result was that it tore up the tool and the top of the oil drive shaft. I am ordering a new high volume pump from Summit today ($55). Don't want to mess with disassembling and cleaning the old one. Also orderin a new tool. Tavia makes one that is chromemoly steel. Crane makes one that is hardened steel. Which would be better?
Second questions is how do I know for sure that I have a good seat? How long should it take to pump oil into the pushrods considering I have a cooler? Should I bypass the cooler on the initial priming effort? I don't want to screw it up again. I need y'all's input. I'm really bummed so far.
**UPDATE**
Well, I got a new pump, screen, and intermediate shaft and assembled it all last night. Also disassembled the old pump and, sure enough, it had lots of fine metal grit on the gears. I also got another priming tool from Autozone. Now I know the problem. The slotted end of the priming tool doesn't properly seat onto the intermediate shaft groove. It is too fat. So, as the pump encounters some resistance, the tool was just spinning on the slot, not turning the pump. This was eating the tool and the shaft.
I will either take apart an old distributor and use that as a priming tool or get a piece of all-thread or square stock and grind a slot on one end and an way to attach the drill to the other or disassemble the tool and grind its slot down just a bit to make it seat properly in the shaft. Think I will check to make sure the distributor slot seats properly while I have it all out! Gonna give it a shot tomorrow night. Thanks for the advice so far.
Brian
Check out <a target="_blank" href=http://tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com>My Jimmy</a> with all her projects!<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by tx85gmcguy on 01/22/02 08:39 AM.</FONT></P>
Okay, the crate install this weekend had problems and the rig is still in pieces. There were many small issues, but no big deal. Those can be dealt with. But, the biggest issue is the oil pump and priming. Got a primer from the local Autozone. Because of the oil cooler, we decided to prime it with the engine installed.
After we got the engine in, we hooked up the tool, connected it to a variable speed (max 2500RPM) pnuematic drill, removed a valve cover to check for priming. After about eight minutes with the drill at max speed, there was no evidence of anything coming from the pushrods. We stopped and I removed the tool. It had oil all up around the lower collar and appeared to be going right. We also loosened the filter to make sure it was doing something and, yes, the filter was full. We figured the delay could have just been from having to pump oil into the filter and fill it up as well as having to pump it through the cooler.
We hooked it all back up again and started the drill back up. After a few seconds, the drill bound up and stopped (not much torque, which is fine). Removed the tool and the upper collar that is clamped by the distributor clamp had bound to the priming tool. We had to press it off and run the tool without it. (Maybe the big mistake) Put the tool back in and ran it at max RPM for another 12 minutes (20 minutes total). There was never any sign of oil from the pushrods. Removed the tool and noticed that the "key" in the bottom of the tool was rounded practically completely smooth. Put a screwdriver down toward the oil pump shaft and noticed it had a lot of play side-to-side. Thought we sheared something. Drained all the oil and it had a lot of small metal sparkle in it. Pulled the pan and it, too, had the metal shavings. The oil filter (after we cut it open) was also full. Pulled the pump and noticed that the top of the oil drive shaft was rounded it the middle.
It looks like the tool didn't seat right. And, without the top collar, it tended to move some. The result was that it tore up the tool and the top of the oil drive shaft. I am ordering a new high volume pump from Summit today ($55). Don't want to mess with disassembling and cleaning the old one. Also orderin a new tool. Tavia makes one that is chromemoly steel. Crane makes one that is hardened steel. Which would be better?
Second questions is how do I know for sure that I have a good seat? How long should it take to pump oil into the pushrods considering I have a cooler? Should I bypass the cooler on the initial priming effort? I don't want to screw it up again. I need y'all's input. I'm really bummed so far.
**UPDATE**
Well, I got a new pump, screen, and intermediate shaft and assembled it all last night. Also disassembled the old pump and, sure enough, it had lots of fine metal grit on the gears. I also got another priming tool from Autozone. Now I know the problem. The slotted end of the priming tool doesn't properly seat onto the intermediate shaft groove. It is too fat. So, as the pump encounters some resistance, the tool was just spinning on the slot, not turning the pump. This was eating the tool and the shaft.
I will either take apart an old distributor and use that as a priming tool or get a piece of all-thread or square stock and grind a slot on one end and an way to attach the drill to the other or disassemble the tool and grind its slot down just a bit to make it seat properly in the shaft. Think I will check to make sure the distributor slot seats properly while I have it all out! Gonna give it a shot tomorrow night. Thanks for the advice so far.
Brian
Check out <a target="_blank" href=http://tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com>My Jimmy</a> with all her projects!<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by tx85gmcguy on 01/22/02 08:39 AM.</FONT></P>
