Cross over high Steering with ram assist. Need some opinions on my setup.

[tech180]

So I had my tie rod above the leaf springs but it was to close to the pitman arm. I flipped it below the steering arms now, but not sure all is good. At full lock to the passenger side (The picture below is full lock) there is only about a 1/4 of space between the bottom of the leaf spring and the tie rod, it dose not hit the leaf but not sure what will happen when I flex it out and tuck the tire. I had to add 1/2 spacer, used the misalignment washers and installed a easy inch to get it to clear the leafs.

Also, check out my ram assist mounting location and give me hour thoughts. The bracket on the axle and the tabs on the tie rod sit lower then the leaf springs so thinking it may be good to go.

 

[tech180]

well, my ram is to long for the mounting point. will hit the leaf springs. So my other option is mounting it below the tie rod but then it's in danger from rocks.Can these rams take a beating on rocks good enough to be below the tie rod?

 

[Avery4jc]

No they can't take a beating. If you scratch/score that shaft it'll start leaking on ya'.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

No they can't take a beating. If you scratch/score that shaft it'll start leaking on ya'.

X2, and if you hit the body of the cylinder you can bend the shaft which ruins it also. The tie rod definitely takes the abuse better than the cylinder, the cylinder really needs to be protected from any trail obstacle.

 

[tech180]

Thats kinda what I figured. Thanks guys.

I have decided to eliminate the leaf springs and 4 link the front. With a linked setup I will be able to correct a ton of issue I am having. Pitman arm wont hit the leaf springs anymore, ram can be mounted up high without hitting the springs, wont have any axle wrap, can eliminate the spacers on the tierod under the hiem joints and I can get more suspension travel. There are a ton of other reason too.

 

[Avery4jc]

As long as you're doing it for "the other reasons" I say go for it. But I wouldn't link a truck because you're having some minor clearance issues. Way easier to tackle the issues at hand than open up a can of worms...

 

[tech180]

As long as you're doing it for "the other reasons" I say go for it. But I wouldn't link a truck because you're having some minor clearance issues. Way easier to tackle the issues at hand than open up a can of worms...

Hey, don't tell my wife that, I am using this as an excuse/justification to spend the money on linking the blazer lol.

I was going to link it anyways, was just seeing if I could get it driving while I waited for the parts to get here.

Pretty much want to link it to for more flex, being able to tune the suspension in an adjust it how I want it, no axle wrap and all the clearance I will gain. With the leaf springs gone I can mount my ram to the rear on top of the axles where its safe. Another good thing is I will be able to do a full axle truss C to C and I wont have to deal with the damn 2 screws holding the spring plates down that like to brake on dana 60s.

 

[MTBLAZER89]

I can't see the picture at work, but I think i can see what you are thinking.

The tie-rod will only get closer to the springs as you turn left and right due to the kingpin axis. The suspension moving up and down should not change clearances between the tie rod and springs. They all move together. I will try and remember to check this thread again from home.

I agree with Avery. This seems like a fairly minor issue. Sure a 4 link is better, but you will definitely run in to far more than this along the path of building a 3 link up front (assuming you meant 3 link) Unless you plan on a 4 link and full hydro steering.