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Cross-over increase turning radius?

broncoman6524

broncoman6524

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Aside from cross-over helping with off camber situations, on the street did anybody have more throw?

I have 6" of lift with 37x12.5 Iroks on 15x12s on my longed and I can't turn for ****. The steering is set up with equal throw to each side.

I plan on going bigger so cross-over is definitely a reasonable option, and I can get a 10b with ORD cross-over and the box for $500.

Or would it be smarter to get a new box with a higher turning ratio in it?
 
A new steering box won't give you any better (tighter) turning radius. Turning radius is controlled by ackerman angle IIRC. Yes, crossover steering does increase turning radius.
 
Ok. I was told by one of the mechanics at work that I could get a different box with different ratios to increase the throw.

I would assume that would work more on a left-right box instead of a front-back box, correct?
 
Ratio won't change the throw, just changes how many turns of the steering wheel it takes to turn the box. Seems to me that the steering radius would be determined by the knuckles' stop points and/or the castor angle ... but assuming you can get the knuckles all the way out, your steering box and draglink can't do more than they already do, right? :dunno:

-- A
 
I have crossover on my Dana 44 (which is the same stuff as a 10 bolt) and I have as tight a turning radius as I did before.

On a lot of crossover systems the arm on the steering knuckle is very long which then requires a very long pitman arm which are very hard to come by with the correct drop.

On my setups I drill the hole for the drag link on the passenger steering arm at 5 1/2 to 6 inches from the center of the ball joint then I use a stock TJ pitman arm. The steering knuckles hit the stops just before the steering box runs out of movement. It's extremely important to have the knuckles be the steering stops and NOT the steering box, you will ruin the steering box sooner or later if you don't have proper steering stops.
 
bigblock72 said:
I have crossover on my Dana 44 (which is the same stuff as a 10 bolt) and I have as tight a turning radius as I did before.

On a lot of crossover systems the arm on the steering knuckle is very long which then requires a very long pitman arm which are very hard to come by with the correct drop.

On my setups I drill the hole for the drag link on the passenger steering arm at 5 1/2 to 6 inches from the center of the ball joint then I use a stock TJ pitman arm. The steering knuckles hit the stops just before the steering box runs out of movement. It's extremely important to have the knuckles be the steering stops and NOT the steering box, you will ruin the steering box sooner or later if you don't have proper steering stops.
Click to expand...
any pics of this setup??
 
Caster angle huh?... maybe toslow was right, and my shackles ARE affecting my caster enough to kill my turning.
 
On my Longbed P/u, I got alot tighter turning radius after doing the crossover. I was shocked...
 
My crossover gave me a much tighter turning radius as well. I can swing a u-turn within a street now where it used to take a 3 point turn.
 
On my blazer I can turn on a dime, the damn truck needs a football field.

I'll go ahead and bite the bullet then. I figure it's a 50/50 shot and a smart thing to do anyways.
 
Crossover made my u-turns a lot tighter too....

Just another benefit of swapping out the push-pull factory steering.


:usaflag:
 
My K5 turned way tighter with the X-over than it did with the push pull. Even on 15" wide TSL's it'll pull a U-turn in hardly any space at all...

Rene
 
Here's a joke....

Crossover on a crew cab so I can do u-turns on a 2 lane street.


OK that was bad. Never mind. :laugh:
 
BadAss90K5 said:
Here's a joke....

Crossover on a crew cab so I can do u-turns on a 2 lane street.


OK that was bad. Never mind. :laugh:
Click to expand...

Sure! All you gotta do is move the rear axle so it's right behind the back seat :deal:

Of course, if you kept the 8' bed you'd then this gigantic J-Lo butt swinging around killing pedestrians and destroying the neighborhood ... which, actually, is not unlike driving a Suburban right after driving your Blazer. The wheelbase is only a bit longer, but that huge ass end just SWWIIIIIIIIIIIIIIINGS out :haha:

-- A
 
dremu said:
Sure! All you gotta do is move the rear axle so it's right behind the back seat :deal:

Of course, if you kept the 8' bed you'd then this gigantic J-Lo butt swinging around killing pedestrians and destroying the neighborhood ... which, actually, is not unlike driving a Suburban right after driving your Blazer. The wheelbase is only a bit longer, but that huge ass end just SWWIIIIIIIIIIIIIIINGS out :haha:

-- A
Click to expand...

:haha::haha::haha:

Yeah, no kidding! I already attempted it and it was quite embarassing having to make 6 point turns. I had to do it, the next u-turn was a mile ahead.
 
I'm making everything for my crossover myself, should have less than 100 bucks into it
 
howdiy said:
I'm making everything for my crossover myself, should have less than 100 bucks into it
Click to expand...

Ought to be interesting...:rolleyes:

Steel cost for a decent drag link is already near $100, nevermind the DLE's. Are you planning on torch cutting the arm out of mild steel and hacking a couple of holes into it too?

When you're done with that you can make your own body lift next...I hear Wal-mart has hockey pucks for .50 cents each this week.

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
Ought to be interesting...:rolleyes:

Steel cost for a decent drag link is already near $100, nevermind the DLE's. Are you planning on torch cutting the arm out of mild steel and hacking a couple of holes into it too?

When you're done with that you can make your own body lift next...I hear Wal-mart has hockey pucks for .50 cents each this week.

Rene
Click to expand...

:haha::haha::haha::haha:

owned.gif
 
he could try using a stock tie rod as a drag link. I have seen a few budget minded wheelers do, or at least attempt to do this with decent results. Most however have had problems with finding a pitman arm that works with the steering arm they are using and end up putting endless hours into making used stuff kinda work.

With my long bed I was suprised to see how well my truck turned. The radius certainly decreased but even better was the fact that my radius was now equal for both turning directions. I was running an "S" shaped drag link and had full steering lock in one direction but not the other, even after messing with it for hours on end the best I got was limited turning in both directions. The crossover lets me go to full lock and feels to me like the truck is much more nimble. I love being able to steer when twisted up too!
 
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