What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

cross over steering.

E

eightyone

1/2 ton status
Joined
Apr 25, 2004
Posts
292
Reaction score
0
Location
long island
what will i need for cross over steering on an 81 with a 3/4 ton dana 44 and 4 inch lift. and what will this cost me. thanks. oh yeah, im doing a 52inch spring swap at the same time, so will i need a longer tie rod or anyhting.
 
to give ya a feel... I was $415 out the door to my steps..... bit costy... but hey... it is xover steering... :cool1:
 
Well, if you already have flat tops you need to get them machined. If you don't already have flat tops you need to procure some then get them machined. $75 for the knuckles and then $75 for the machining.


Then you need a steering arm. I'm running a "tall" style one from Sky that uses stock studs. His prices keep going up but I'm satisfied with mine. That'll cost you about $130 for the arm and stud kit.


You need a 2wd steering box for your generation vehicle. I have several of both generations so I didn't need to buy one. Probably cost you $50 used or $175 remanufactured.


Next you need a drop pitman arm. I went like everyone else and used a Superlift #1104 arm. I think they're $65 from Summit.


Next you need tie rod ends. I wanted mine to be left hand and right hand thread so you can adjust them like stock (just spin the rod) instead of pulling a joint out of the knuckle all the time.

left draglink TRE ... ES2010L (Dodge) ... $36
Left tie rod TRE ... ES2233L (Chevy one with a hole in it for steering stabilizer) ... $23
Right tie rod and drag link TRE ... ES2234R (Chevy one on the passenger side... need two of these) ... $24

I ended up paying $48 for that damn Dodge TRE though. So you're at least $110 in the hole for the TREs alone.


Next, you need tie rods. Well, I'm running stock tie rods. For the draglink I cut and sleeved a stock one. Since there is no drop in the joints you need to run a small block or a cut off overload to clear a 10 bolt tie rod with the leaf springs. On flat tops the tie rod nut is on the bottom and on 10 bolts the tie rod nut is on the top.





SO... if you've already got the flat tops, the steering box, and use stock tie rods you're looking at about $380. If you have new tie rods built expect to pay about $150 between the two to buy the tube and have threads cut. Plain-jane crossover on a 1/2 ton front end costs about what crossover and behind the axle highsteer on a Dana 60.
 
Good write up CyberSniper, most don't tell you about the tie rod and spring clearance issue.

TO clear my engine cross member I bought a bent draglink from SKY ($65.00)

I needed to re taper my pitman arm to fit the chevy DLE, bought a a 1.5" per foot reamer for $30.00 ish on ebay.

While you are at it, tap your box. I've got $75.00 into my hydro-assist and it was a great improvement, just my $.02. I tapped it assembled with magnets as shown on k5crawler, bought fittings and 1 1/2" x 8" ram from local hydraulic store. 1 1/4 npt x -4 90* and 1 1/4 npt x -4 45* on box, 2 -4 lines, and 2 -4 to -4 jic o-ring fittings on ram
 
Last edited:
thor said:
Good write up CyberSniper, most don't tell you about the tie rod and spring clearance issue.

TO clear my engine cross member I bought a bent draglink from SKY ($65.00)

I needed to re taper my pitman arm to fit the chevy DLE, bought a a 1.5" per foot reamer for $30.00 ish on ebay.

While you are at it, tap your box. I've got $75.00 into my hydro-assist and it was a great improvement, just my $.02.
Click to expand...


where did ya get your ram? that is my next step....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom