Durdyk5
Registered Member
Is anybody running a cross over steering? Pros/cons on it?
CK5
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Cross over steering
- Thread starter Durdyk5
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- Mar 3, 2000
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Crossover with hydro assist!
Durdyk5
Registered Member
I am running a 2" lift saw where they had one for a 2" lift just didn't know if it made that big of a difference. Saw where you had to take the sway bar out, just didn't know if it was worth it. Don't really plan on putting anything bigger than a 33" tire on it
I think the reason for the different kits is less bend in the drag link for the lower lift.
Crossover is a great mod but, like @Bent77 said, it depends on what you’re doing if it’s worth it.
It can be a tricky deal too. This is one item I’d recommend buying as a kit so you know everything works together.
Crossover is a great mod but, like @Bent77 said, it depends on what you’re doing if it’s worth it.
It can be a tricky deal too. This is one item I’d recommend buying as a kit so you know everything works together.
Durdyk5
Registered Member
In Greenville. The delta area
ORD told me that they haven't found enough space at 2"of lift for crossover steering. The drag link hits one place or another, or both.
But I haven't tried it personally.
It would definitely have to have a straight drag link in my eyes, as a dropped pitman arm on the box would probably be good.
But I do wonder if you really need it. The type of wheeling would be the deciding factor for myself. If you don't flex the suspension to the maximum, without a front fulltime locker, you can get by with stock style steering, IMO.
I was told 2" is do-able if you also run their high clearance engine crossmember or modify the stock one.
I remember the crossmember being a contact point, too.
And I believe, (don't take this as hard and fast rule, just what I honestly believe that Stephen told me) that often contact could happen between the frame and draglink, or spring and draglink on the right side if it was stuffed hard. I thought that the left side was a place to watch, but less of a problem.
I think that if you push one this hard, which only has a 1" zero-rate up front, that you could find the out if there is room!
So what kind of off roading do you do?
And what 2" springs do you have that exceed the push pull limits?
And what 2" springs do you have that exceed the push pull limits?
I personally wouldn’t bother to run crossover on a 2” lift. It’s expensive and if you’re putting many road miles on, gets a little funny from bump steer on whoops in the pavement and expansion joints.
6 inches of lift on push pull still does just fine for mild trails and street driving.
Also, the factory sway bar is real nice for street driving.
6 inches of lift on push pull still does just fine for mild trails and street driving.
Also, the factory sway bar is real nice for street driving.
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Crossover steering is great. There are some pros/cons that I have found with my own (very little) experience.
pros to crossover:
1. When your suspension flexes the steering will work no matter where you are in your suspension travel.
2. Your turning radius will greatly improve.
3. Stronger/more durable.
4. With soft suspension it won’t drive the vehicle on its own. For example, I was driving with my old push/pull and I was hauling ass on a hilly road. When I was coming down the hill the suspension squatted and without moving the steering wheel the truck steered into the oncoming lane. At the top of the hill, the suspension unloaded and it drifted back into the other lane. (Caused by short drag link) and I never moved the steering wheel! Mind your I was running super soft springs with a b52 and much longer than stock shocks. With crossover I never had that problem again.
cons to crossover:
1. Can’t run factory sway bar.
2. Expensive (especially with a Dana 44/10 bolt) due to the knuckle issue. Maybe the money would be better spent on lockers, transmission, axles, gas, recovery equipment?
3. Simplicity.
That’s my humble 2 cents. I think if your going to limit your suspension (good limit straps / bumps) you would be fine with push/pull assuming it’s only a 2 inch lift. If your going to wheel it hard, flex the shit out of it, and take the sway bar out, DO CROSSOVER. I don’t regret the crossover one bit, but it was becoming dangerous in my application. Hope this helped you in your decision.
pros to crossover:
1. When your suspension flexes the steering will work no matter where you are in your suspension travel.
2. Your turning radius will greatly improve.
3. Stronger/more durable.
4. With soft suspension it won’t drive the vehicle on its own. For example, I was driving with my old push/pull and I was hauling ass on a hilly road. When I was coming down the hill the suspension squatted and without moving the steering wheel the truck steered into the oncoming lane. At the top of the hill, the suspension unloaded and it drifted back into the other lane. (Caused by short drag link) and I never moved the steering wheel! Mind your I was running super soft springs with a b52 and much longer than stock shocks. With crossover I never had that problem again.
cons to crossover:
1. Can’t run factory sway bar.
2. Expensive (especially with a Dana 44/10 bolt) due to the knuckle issue. Maybe the money would be better spent on lockers, transmission, axles, gas, recovery equipment?
3. Simplicity.
That’s my humble 2 cents. I think if your going to limit your suspension (good limit straps / bumps) you would be fine with push/pull assuming it’s only a 2 inch lift. If your going to wheel it hard, flex the shit out of it, and take the sway bar out, DO CROSSOVER. I don’t regret the crossover one bit, but it was becoming dangerous in my application. Hope this helped you in your decision.
Anyone make a kit
How was crossover becoming dangerous?
Anyone make a high steer crossover kit that works with factory 4wheel drive box?
How was crossover becoming dangerous?
Anyone make a high steer crossover kit that works with factory 4wheel drive box?
He meant push/pull becoming dangerous. I ran it with my previous 6” and never had an issue though. I’m on a cross over now because I couldn’t get parts to line up right after pushing my axle an inch forward. It is nice being able to steer when the suspension is flexed out.
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Somebody would have to make a custom steering arm in order to have cross-over work on a 4wd box. Probably comes down to cost of getting a bolt-in 2wd box and a factory available steering arm versus buying a pricey customer machined arm.
custom arm = not . the lock bolt grove is in the spot the arm main body would need to be in .
just swap to a 2wd box and or sector shaft and be done with it .
just swap to a 2wd box and or sector shaft and be done with it .
On the hunt for a 2 wheel drive box now. If.... strong word.... I understand that as long as I stick with same year model (1990 any 2 wheel drive from a tuck should bolt up the same. I was able to find one from a 1994 Suburban for $65. Is there a date range that will?
need square body 80-87 truck or up to 91 blazer / suburban / crew cab . and c10 - c30 same box .
the 1994 box is a no go . its different mounting .
and for anyone searching later 88-up ifs 2wd or 4wd do not need a box swap to go crossover .
the 1994 box is a no go . its different mounting .
and for anyone searching later 88-up ifs 2wd or 4wd do not need a box swap to go crossover .
