Crossover and tierod questions

[454Sub]

I just received my WFO crossover kit today and I am in the process of bolting it on, and I was wondering if someone has any advice on figuring drag link length. WFOs kits as some of you may know comes unfinished and requires you to weld the ends into the drag link after cutting it down. Do I need to flex the suspension or can I do it sitting at ride height on jack stands to get the right length? Also got my ORD tierod as well and 1/8in toe in is about correct is it not?

 

[Avery4jc]

I run all wfo steering as well. Just set it up at ride height. I cut the tube to length so once the inserts were welded in the draglink and tie rod ends would thread in about half way so it gave me room to adjust in either direction.

 

[K85 Octane]

yep, I've got the same stuff from WFO. Avery pinned it. As for the tierod, get the tires on and get a friend to help hold a straight edge on one tire. (I used two 4' levels) Measure the very front and very back of the levels. I set mine 1/8" toe in with the 4' spread. Then measure the tierod. I had someone weld one end of the tierod, threaded the rod end in and put it in the knuckle. Measured what was extra etc.

38" Mickey Thomson claws @ 55 so far is very nice. Not even balanced yet. No stabilizer either. D60

 

[Stomis]

When you weld your inserts take the boot off the tierod end and liberally dope the threads with anti seize and screw the tierod end into the bung so all the threads are filled! Then let them cool off really good before screwing or unscrewing. Better safe than sorry especially with fine thread steering ****.

Easiest way to get the correct length is to park your truck with the wheels centered the best you can. Now is also the time to get the pitman arm dead center if you can, easiest with two people. Welding in one side and then cutting the other to length is a good way to do it. Remember your insert collar is going to add length. Ive had a few "Why the **** is this so god damn long?!?!?" moments.

 

[454Sub]

Iv heard that drilling a hole into the link and welding the threaded insert from the side as well as the top is also a good idea.... Seems to me that it could warp the threading or potentially burn through, most likely bad. Any thoughts? And I go to put my tierod together and i dont have a left hand thread 7/8x18 jam nut, nice.

 

[dremu]

I thought the jam nut came with the DLE / TRE's, but I could be wrong.

I drill through tube when I'm sleeving a joint -- did this a coupla times on my rollcage, for instance. The plug weld can then burn into the inside piece nicely and yeah, it provides greater strength, torsional resistance, etc.

But considering how thin the threaded insert is, and that you don't want to bung up the threads, no, I'd not plug weld it. Leave yourself a 3/16", 1/4" gap after the end of the tube and the lip of the insert, and just weld it good there.

-- A

 

[K85 Octane]

When you weld your inserts take the boot off the tierod end and liberally dope the threads with anti seize and screw the tierod end into the bung so all the threads are filled! Then let them cool off really good before screwing or unscrewing. Better safe than sorry especially with fine thread steering ****.

O yeah, good bring up. I used lots of plumbers tape, teflon white tape stuff. Worked PERFECT! I just had it welded on the outside.

 

[454Sub]

I knew you guys were useful for somethin other than your looks. Thanks

 

[Fred_M1010]

I run all wfo steering as well. Just set it up at ride height. I cut the tube to length so once the inserts were welded in the draglink and tie rod ends would thread in about half way so it gave me room to adjust in either direction.

To get equal adjustability in both directions I'd thread them in more than halfway, maybe 3/4 or something like that.
You don't want to ride with only one thread engaged

 

[Fred_M1010]

Btw do WFO use stock drag-links?
If so, make sure you get the threads for the short one on the steering box side
(I don't remember if it's RH- or LH-thread on that one).
And also get the bend on the drag-link as close to the steering box side as possible,
so if it needs shortening I'd shorten that side first.

That gives you the best chance to clear the crossmember.

 

[K85 Octane]

WFO (unless changed recently) doesn't have the bent draglink, but depending on lift height isn't necessary. I had one, but ditched it for a straight bar and ends from WFO. (4" lift)

as far as the rodends, I don't know, I'm using my original ORD ends that came with the bent draglink. I'd like to pick up some of the ones Fred is talking about, would be nice "cheaper" spares.

 

[454Sub]

WFO offers it with the bent as well. I have an 8in lift with a leaf removed and it looked like the straight link would morph into a bent one had I ordered it instead

 

[Avery4jc]

To get equal adjustability in both directions I'd thread them in more than halfway, maybe 3/4 or something like that.
You don't want to ride with only one thread engaged

Half way down the threads of the tre/dle, not half way down the threads of the tube insert.

WFO offers it with the bent as well. I have an 8in lift with a leaf removed and it looked like the straight link would morph into a bent one had I ordered it instead

X2, I'm running a bent wfo draglink.

 

[454Sub]

Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the draglink supposed to be parallel to the ground at ride height?

 

[dremu]

Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the draglink supposed to be parallel to the ground at ride height?

Not so critical with crossover. On push-pull, the draglink is so short that you lose length as the suspension cycles. With the greater length of crossover, the wheels don't get turned near as much as the suspension goes up & down.

But yeah, the truck steers itself at flex.

-- A

 

[454Sub]

Ok, i just have to take out one bolt holding the box on, weld the new plates in, put the new box and ORD bolt on braces in, and ready to cut the tube and weld it together, Im done for the night, so we shall see how this goes tomorrow.....