Crossover arm removal?

[88trailblazer]

I need to install a 1 inch spacer because the spring are hitting the bent draglink after installing the ez-inch blocks and shims (also moved the axle foward one inch). Before you say it, i got the upgraded ARP stud kit from MikeParts.

Now i've removed the stock steering arm before without a problem. Is this the same? Should i beat the steering arm down near the front tappered end? Or is there a better way to get the conicle washers off? I also have new washers and nuts to go with the kit.

I can't even finish the install because it is hitting the spring.

Driver side still has to be tightened up.

Axle before the install

 

[bp71k5]

I don't know the details of your steering setup, but I'd ditch the tapered shim and taper the ez-inch if you really need to taper anything.

Also, those front springs look super heavy duty for the front. Do you need all those leaves? You might be able to do better with less.

 

[88trailblazer]

Yeah, i don't like the idea of having both the shim and the ez-inch but i wasn't sure if i could taper the ez-inch. The springs are rough country and they don't ride too rough. Plus i had to add the ez-inch to level the front out and reduce the tire rubbing. The shims were needed to reduce the death wobble.

This is how it sat before the ez-inch and shims (it had sagged even more after this pic was taken):

This is how it sits now (the axle still needs to move foward on the passenger side)

 

[cegusman]

I don't know the details of your steering setup, but I'd ditch the tapered shim and taper the ez-inch if you really need to taper anything.

Get diy4x to make you a zerorate with a taper. You could not pay me to run a zerorate and shim at the same time. Looks to unsafe.

 

[bp71k5]

Does the spring pin go all the way through the ez-inch AND the taper block? If it doesn't it's not going to be very safe.

What about just bigger lift springs on the front?

 

[88trailblazer]

Yeah, the new center pin goes through it all. The point of using the ez-inch was also to move the axle forward because the 38.50x14.50's were rubbing on the street. Right now new springs are out of the question due to money.

I just got these from Kurt last week. I didn't think it was a big deal cuz there are a few people on here running zero rates and shims.

Do you think i could have these ez-inch blocks tapered? I would loose some height because i'd be getting rid of a 1/2" thick shim + approx 1/3" of the ez-inch.

 

[88trailblazer]

I guess before i go through that i could probably just a easily cut the perches off and weld them at the correct angle. I would only loose roughly 1/2" in height.

 

[bp71k5]

In order to get your steering hooked up again either you need to add some height to the steering arm or take away some height from the spring-block-taper area.

My personal opinion is to remove as many blocks as you can. If $ is tight, I'd try to find some used springs with the amount of lift you need. Or drop the lift some and cut more off the fenders.

 

[88trailblazer]

I got the 1inch spacer and ARP bolts from PartMike just haven't installed them jet.

I'm going to run this setup for now (since so many people are running the same setup). Atleast that way i can test the angle out and see if it gets rid of the nasty death whobble before i start making any other changes.


Now for the original question, is there any special trick to getting the Crossover Steering arms off?

 

[dremu]

I got the 1inch spacer and ARP bolts from PartMike just haven't installed them jet.

I'm going to run this setup for now (since so many people are running the same setup). Atleast that way i can test the angle out and see if it gets rid of the nasty death whobble before i start making any other changes.


Now for the original question, is there any special trick to getting the Crossover Steering arms off?

Should be easier than the original one, if for no other reason than it's not had a chance to rust in there as long It fastens the same way, so undo the nuts up top, soak the cones in penetrating oil (which it looks like you've done, unless that's water?) and then beat or wiggle the arm. You may also be able to back the cones out with a flat head if you're lucky.

-- A

 

[YZEATER]

do you have a drop pitman arm? pic?

 

[88trailblazer]

I have the 2wd box shown in this pic

 

[YZEATER]

how much more clearance do you need before you can get the draglink installed? you could go with a pitman arm that has less drop, which will put the draglink at a greater angle.

 

[88trailblazer]

I got the spacer on with only two of the ARP studs cuz PartsMike accidentally sent me one 9/16 stud. They mailed me the correct one so i'll add it later. I'm not driiving the truck now anyways so its okay.

The arm came off after about 20 wacks with a regular hammer. The studs came off easily with the double-nut method. With the spacer installed its not too bad. I took pics but i don't have the PC cable with me so i'll post up tonight. I also made sure that all surfaces were clean and smooth. I'll just have to re-torque everything once i have the third stud unstalled.

One thing i didn't think about was that with such thick shims installed, one u-bolt isn't long enough. When i ordered the new u-bolts from DIY4x, it didn't even cross my mind.

I also picked up longer brake lines since my current ones are pulling double duty as limiting straps since the lift was installed.

 

[88trailblazer]

 

[YZEATER]

maybe it's just me, but i still don't like the looks of that shim. where did you get it? looks like the alxe is just teetering on it.

 

[88trailblazer]

Yeah the shims will eventually be changed out for new thinner ones with flatter surfaces or i'll have the ez-inch milled. These were pulled from the rear springs which were replaced with smaller degree shims to correct the angles back there. BTW, in the last pics the center pin on the passenger side isn't even in the hole. The center pin bolt that i used is too big so i'll be changing that out. Also those u-bolt aren't tightened down on that side because of the one short u-bolt. You can see how the driver side came out now that it's been tightened down.