Crossover Done - Question...

[AZ79K5Project]

I completed the crossover today and did a driveway alignment. I must say I do good work. j/k

This is by far the best thing I have done for this truck. If anyone is debating on whether or not it's worth it, just do it, it's worth it!!! No more bump steer, DW and much more stable on the road.

I replaced all TRE's, ball joints, installed the bolt in steering brace and swapped the 2wd sector shaft in this process.



This pic shows how close the tie rod is to the spring back. The tie rod hits the spring packs on both sides at full wheel lock.






Here's the question:
Pic Below: The front spring moves slightly from side to side making a noise as I move the steering wheel from lock to lock. The bushing is tight. Is this normal or what should be done to address this?

 

[bigblazer87]

Can't help with your question, but is it true that it gives you a smaller turning radius? I will be doing crossover this summer when I can get the money.

 

[AZ79K5Project]

I've read that has happened to a few. I don't know why, but I didn't experience it with the parts I used. I got everything through Part's Mike in California except for the knuckles. They sat in the garage for a year until I started this. Part's Mike did the machining and ball joint install.

 

[bigblazer87]

How much was the steering arm? Just regular crossover, not high steer. I've got a local shop that is building me a HD tie rod, and will build me an equally beefy draglink for my crossover, along with machining the knuckle for me. The owner says I'm welcome to work there during the summer (I'm 16 and he's not open on weekends), so I want to give him as much of my business as possible, plus he really caters to guys who do it themselves, although he doesn't mind building complete buggies and such for the yuppies out there.

Check 'em out: http://aa-fab.com/

 

[AZ79K5Project]

This is the one I used: Click. The price was $89.00. It is listed as a "High Steer Arm." I didn't do high steer.

The pitman arm can be gotten from a donor Ford van, IIRC, from reading other posts. I paid for a new one. I didn't have the time to do the yard thing on this project. Besides, EVERYTIME I have gone to a pick n pull yard, I end up with a bunch of other stuff that I really don't need for the truck. It would have cost me a lot more $$$.

 

[bigblazer87]

Ah, alright, I was wondering if those arms could be used for crossover instead. I think I'll use this one because it's 1/2" taller. I've got a 12" lift, so I need as much clearance from the springs as possible. I might also use the Dedenbear knuckle because it has an extra 3/8" on top of the flat top over stock. As a last resort, I'll use this spacerhttp://www.aa-fab.com/item-PM050.html

And ain't that the truth; the parts yard is always too much fun, and you end up coming out with things for vehicles you don't own just cause they look cool.

 

[cybrfire]

Unfortunately the symptoms you are seeing are somewhat of a normal side effect of crossover steering. GM didn't design the frame and crossmembers for a side to side load from the steering box.

Frame bracing for sure!

Some things can be done to remedy this situation. A panhard bar can be added. Something that can be disconnected for offroad use perferably.

Hydraulic assist will also help. It puts some of the force from the steering on the axle as opposed to the frame. Somewhat splitting the duties and using the axle to push and pull from.

I bet if you take a look while having somebody turn the wheel lock to lock, you may even see some frame movement. This is worst at a stopped position on dry pavement. While in motion the problem will be lessened.

This has been our experience with non hydraulic assist crossover steering.

 

[bigblazer87]

My truck is strictly street driven with 39.5" tires, what can be done (easily, and preferably bolt-on) to strengthen the frame other than ORD's steering box brace? Would a HD engine crossmember be enough?

 

[cybrfire]

My truck is strictly street driven with 39.5" tires, what can be done (easily, and preferably bolt-on) to strengthen the frame other than ORD's steering box brace? Would a HD engine crossmember be enough?

Are you seeing the same symptoms?

Hydraulic assist is probably the best bang for the buck.

 

[bigblazer87]

No, I haven't installed a crossover setup yet, but would like to do it the right way the first time. If hydro assist is out of my budget, what would strengthen the frame easily (other than bolt-in brace)?

 

[Hossbaby50]

The only other option that is common is the weld in steering box brace/repair kit. It adds another piece of metal behind the steering box. the only way to do it is to remove the steering box and to weld it in. It is not "easy" but it is not hard either if you have a welder and a few hours of time.

Harley

 

[Hossbaby50]

Ah, alright, I was wondering if those arms could be used for crossover instead. I think I'll use this one because it's 1/2" taller. I've got a 12" lift, so I need as much clearance from the springs as possible. I might also use the Dedenbear knuckle because it has an extra 3/8" on top of the flat top over stock. As a last resort, I'll use this spacer

And ain't that the truth; the parts yard is always too much fun, and you end up coming out with things for vehicles you don't own just cause they look cool.

Whatever you do don't use the steering arm spacers. It is an easy way to shear the steering studs. I used one on my truck originally when I did crossover and sheared 2 steering studs, & then stretched 2 grade 9 bolts that I used to replace the studs. Several friends have sheared there studs on several occasions because of the spacers also.

Use a tall steering arm from someone like Sky Manufacturing that still uses stock length studs.

Harley

 

[Hossbaby50]

The system looks good. I wouldn't worry about the steering pushing the springs around a little that is going to happen. Your arm is not a "high steer" arm, it is a low steer arm. A high steer arm would have 2 holes in it. One for the tierod & one for the draglink.

Crossover might net you a little better turning radius from the fact that the ratio of the steering arm vs pitman arm may have changed. When I installed my crossover I did lowsteer but I have a high steer arm. I mounted my draglink the the back hole which was for the tierod. By doing this I changed the ratio of the DL vs TR and my turning radius was alot better. The downside was I lost some steering power/leverage. The loss of steering power/leverage made it possible for my truck to have DW because the tires now had enough force to overpower the steering in certain situations. I then moved my DL to the proper hole. I now have more steering power/leverage but I don't have extra turning radius that I had. It is similar to stock TR now.

Harley

 

[AZ79K5Project]

I didn't want to run high steer. That's just the name they used for the steering arm. I am really happy with the results.

I only had one fubar. I initially bought an WFO Concepts bent drag link. It was too short. Not their fubar, all mine. Well, the threads in the right side end must have had a bur or something. I hand threaded a TRE in 3/4 of the way. All of a sudden it jammed up. I couldn't get the TRE out. I was forced to wrench it out. Toasted the threads on the new TRE and bent drag link. Here's the resutls:


It needs the right side nut cut off and a new one welded in to be used. I now have a 13 pound paper weight.

 

[AZ79K5Project]

Actually, two fubars. The first one was when I was installing the u-joints in my new axle shafts. Two caps in the first ear went together great. The other, murphy kicked me in the nuts. Two or three needle bearings fell over inside the cap. Being a guy, I used more force until the bottom of the cap breaks open. That's a bad thing right? I know, just checking. It was a Sunday afternoon, everything closed.

That ended the first day's work fairly early.

 

[Chrisblazzer89]

How much did it all cost you? I want to do x over.

 

[AZ79K5Project]

How much did it all cost you? I want to do x over.

I'll check the receipts tomorrow and post.

 

[AZ79K5Project]

This is the best I have.

4 TRE's @ $29.95/ea
4 ball joints (old out and these installed) around $37.00/ea
Bent drag link to my specs $90.00 - .250 x 1.5 DOM
Machine work on the knuckle - $65.00
Steering arm/monting hardware - $95.00
2wd steering box - $27.00 (swapped sector shafts)
Steering brace (bolt in) - $125.00
Total: Around $600.00

Some of this stuff can be transfered to a D60 if I eventually go that route. No plans for that.

I was supposed to get off from work yesturday at 5PM. Got home at 2AM. I am giving my best memory answers with little sleep.

I replaced the axle shafts with Yukon 4350's with Spicer U-Joints, bought a Cherokee steering shaft and new universal joint to fit the Chev box - total: $400.00

I also bought zero rates, shackle flip, dual boot for the dual shifter and transfer case skip plate I got from Marv (thank you Marv). I picked up a carpet kit, Edlebrock street legal (smog) aluminum intake, and Tuffy center console off from local Craigslist. All this stuff is in the garage waiting to be put on.

WAY TOO MUCH $$$$$$.

It was either a Blazer or girlfriend. My wife wouldn't let me have the girlfriend.

 

[noahrob]

Let me ask a dumb question, if the two TRE's are different, 1 has the zerk on the top and on ehas the zerk on the side, which one would you put towards the steering box?

 

[southernspeed]

Unfortunately the symptoms you are seeing are somewhat of a normal side effect of crossover steering. GM didn't design the frame and crossmembers for a side to side load from the steering box.

Frame bracing for sure!

Some things can be done to remedy this situation. A panhard bar can be added. Something that can be disconnected for offroad use perferably.

Hydraulic assist will also help. It puts some of the force from the steering on the axle as opposed to the frame. Somewhat splitting the duties and using the axle to push and pull from.

I bet if you take a look while having somebody turn the wheel lock to lock, you may even see some frame movement. This is worst at a stopped position on dry pavement. While in motion the problem will be lessened.

This has been our experience with non hydraulic assist crossover steering.

As said but I found that hydro exagerated the problem(properly adjsted stops may have fixed that). I fitted a panhard which sorted it out. Pull the pins and strap it in the back when wheeling!