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Crossover done

Mastiff

1/2 ton status
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Jul 21, 2002
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Tucson, AZ
Here's a pictorial diary of the crossover install.

Starting here, regular push-pull D60, ORD 4-5" lift.

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Sheet metal cap on passenger side, will go to driver's side:
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Push-pull components on driver's side with dropped pitman.
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Remove sheet metal thing, install studs and put some RTV to keep the grease in.
SAM_0017.JPG


Steering arm installed. ORD instructions call for 110 ft-lbs with oiled threads, loosen and tighten 3-5 time. 110 doesn't feel like much here.
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Here's the 2WD steering box I ordered from Benchworks with 14:1 ratio.
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Here's the bare frame after 4WD box removed. Sort of a pain to remove by yourself. I wired it up before undoing the last bolt, but it still fell a little. Oh well, it's just a core now. You can see the ORD brace through the holes. Notice it's not lined up. This made the one man install of the new box extra painful.
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Much cussing later, the new box is installed. This was by far the most painful part. The ORD brace is in the way and doesn't line up right, so it made it that much harder to get everything started (not blaming ORD, I probably drilled the hole slightly off way back when I installed it). The paint in the threads of the new box didn't help either. I ended up running a tap through them to get the bolts to start more easily. The trick for the one man install was to put a punch through one of the holes to hang the box on while the others were started.
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When the old hoses were remove, both o-rings were destroyed. I thought this would be a good time to replace the hoses, but nobody stocks the return hose. Oreilley and Autozone sell bulk hose for the return, when what I needed was the metal fitting. I bought a pressure line but ended up just replacing the o-rings for now since getting a wrench on the back of the pump looked nearly impossible.
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Once the box is in, the pitmann arm is attached to ~190 ft-lbs. I had to order the 7/8"-14 nut since it didn't come with the steering box or the ORD kit.
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Attaching the draglink is it after that, which is a piece of cake. The only complication is that I couldn't just rotate it to align the steering wheel since it hits the crossmember. I was able to make it squeak past by jacking up the drivers side. One rotation worked well enough in my case.
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That's it. So far I like the feel of the steering much better. At this point everything is new from the column to the wheels. I've only driven it around the block a few times so far.
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By the way, the system took about 36 oz of power steering fluid, which was more than I expected (extra trips). Only start the truck for a few seconds the first few times because the reservoir evacuates quickly. It's easy to overfill the res, and if you do when no more is needed, it'll quickly puke out around the cap...
 
The pic of the bare frame appears to show 2 possible cracks on the steering box lower rear mounting hole.
 
Here's a zoom. I don't see it. I checked it over, but may have missed something.

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why is the drag link bent im gonna do mine next week end and some peop; have told me why bend it and make a week spot and by people i mean fab shops that sell the kit
they say to just use a strait drag link
im using ford 1 ton TRE's
sorry to jack this post
your conversion looks great by the way
 
shoulda done one or both of the braces anyway...
 
shoulda done one or both of the braces anyway...

What braces? I have the ORD steering brace, is that what you'r talking about?

The draglink is bent to ensure it clears the engine crossmember. If your lift and stuff allows straight, that would seem stronger, but I don't think there's THAT much force going on there. The box is mounted to the flimsy frame after all.
 
and a straight drag link will max out the end's for range of motion much faster than a bent link . this comes in to play more with tall lifts .

my buddy has this problem right now and he needs to order a bent link .

also I have and installed a few ord crossover kits . there tubing is BEEFY and thick stuff. :whistle:
 
Nice write up. Good pics and a very nice looking truck.
I have the straight crossovr link with 1 ton tre's . I think with hiems it would be better with alot of flex however the bent link with 1ton tre's is pefect with the smaller lifts.

About the frame repair. Depends how you play, but IMO every truck.shoud get the repair kits
 
I have the ORD bolt on brace. It has the triangulation plus something on the front side of the frame ladder. I installed it 15 years ago.
 
Also
I originally ordered a bent link, but it wouldn't work with my D44/zero rate combination because it would contact the leaf springs. 4" lift with degreed zero rate

Sold it and went with a straight link. Then, without putting any miles on the combo, sold the D44 and replaced it with a D60. So, I ended up with a straight link and flatter pitman arm. Since I have the ORD crossmember, nothing hits.

I could go back to the bent link since the D60 has better clearance above the knuckle, plus my flatter pitman arm helps bring it up too. But wont, cause that costs money and nothing binds or feels funny going down the road. 1ton ends
 
Good write-up! I wish mine was some where close to that!!!!
 
You should definitely get the steering box brace...

Just kidding. My setup is the same. I did however, put both bolt-in and weld-in braces in. It was a 'might as well' kinda thing. But let me tell yah, it definitely makes the gear box bolts fun to get in with both braces.

Your setup looks good! I can't wait to get mine back on the road. Paint this week!
 
Looks good. I have all the parts to do this swap now, just looking for a little time. Now you've got me wondering how much fluid I'll need with hydroboost. I'm gonna try capping the lines when I take them off the box.

I'll check in on your other thread to see how you like the quick ratio box.
 
Well crap. I was test driving today (and retuning the engine with the 1-tons) when the power steering went out. I figured I somehow ran it out of fluid, but this was not the case. The belt is good too. My guess is that somehow the pump went out. It doesn't squeal at lock, and the fluid looks calm in the reservoir with the engine running. Anything else it could be?

I may have gotten it a bit low on fluid at the first startup, but not for more than 5-10 seconds. The only other thing I did was allow the level to be too high. I overfilled it and it overflowed on my first test drive. After that I figured I'd just let it blow out the amount it wanted and clean up the mess later. Too much can't hurt can it?

It is the original pump, but the timing is too much of a coincidence...
 
A little fluid starvation shouldn't hurt it. This is just guessing, but you may have fallen victim to the occasional problems that come from mixing old and new parts. I encountered this a few times in the Army working on old trucks. Particularly when dealing with hydraulics, replacing a failing or old component with a new one exposes the weaknesses in the other system components. Kind of like putting a fresh head on a block with tired rings. Not saying that's what's happening here, but a possibility.
 
if running and no level change or swirling action = pump d.o.a

and if you didn't blead it with wheels off ground and engine not running / cycling the wheel back - forth till no more fluid could be added . then start for few sec and shut off and refill till level don't drop .

then this is how you can get massive air bubble in system . then when fluid cycles around it foams up and this will tear apart the insides of a pump .

or the dreaded since-u-was problem . just died since you was just playing with it and it was time.
 
Crossover steering will move a lot more fluid than push pull steering.... There's a pretty good chance that your old pump died just trying to keep up with the new parts' fluid demands.

-G
 
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