x2, its moving the pitman arm the same amount isnt it?
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Crossover done
- Thread starter Mastiff
- Start date
x2, its moving the pitman arm the same amount isnt it?
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I'm guessing Greg meant hydro-assist rather than crossover.
I'm guessing I just didn't bleed it properly. New pump is on the way. I plan to bleed it by jacking the tires off the ground and turning it (engine off) lock to lock 20-30 times or until the fluid stabilizes. I'm not planning on flushing it. I put fancy Royal Purple fluid in there and don't want to piss $15 worth of it onto the ground, plus I'd probably run it dry trying to do it alone. Unless debris from the pump getting into the box is a real concern... The pump I bought has a filter and magnet in it.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
If the pump went bad, it may have added some pump fragments into the oil. Not sure I'd risk a $100 pump over $15 in oil. But in either case, don't drain it onto the ground!
So how do you flush the system with one person? Even with two, pouring fluid in while engine is running seems dicey.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Are you changing the fluid completely or just bleeding the air out?
I just did installed mine last week by myself. I jack the tires off the ground, filled the reservoir with fluid and then turned the steering wheel back and forth a few times. Then I added more fluid to make up for any air that bubbled out. Did that one more time and then started the engine for 5 second to let the pump push fluid through. Topped off the fluid again and that was all it needed. I didn't spill a drop anywhere.
Now if you are talking about removing all the contaminated oil, drain what you can into a bucket and then remove the hoses, clean them out and reinstall. Then recycle the old fluid. Not sure why dumping it on the ground would be needed?
I just did installed mine last week by myself. I jack the tires off the ground, filled the reservoir with fluid and then turned the steering wheel back and forth a few times. Then I added more fluid to make up for any air that bubbled out. Did that one more time and then started the engine for 5 second to let the pump push fluid through. Topped off the fluid again and that was all it needed. I didn't spill a drop anywhere.
Now if you are talking about removing all the contaminated oil, drain what you can into a bucket and then remove the hoses, clean them out and reinstall. Then recycle the old fluid. Not sure why dumping it on the ground would be needed?
I'm replacing the whole pump and reservoir, so the only thing would be if it was necessary to flush the fluid from the box in case there are chunks in there. I wasn't planning on worrying about it until you made me feel bad about it. 
I've read instructions about disconnecting the return line and somehow trying to keep the pump filled while the old fluid goes out (onto the ground?). I wouldn't purposely dump it on the ground, but finding a way to catch it in a situation like that seems difficult.
I've read instructions about disconnecting the return line and somehow trying to keep the pump filled while the old fluid goes out (onto the ground?). I wouldn't purposely dump it on the ground, but finding a way to catch it in a situation like that seems difficult.
engine off .
wheels off ground .
hose in catch pan .
res full.
turn wheels .
the box will move lots of fluid all by its self .
this is why you don't turn the wheels on a ford with engine off . it will toss its fluid all over . and some gm do it also .
wheels off ground .
hose in catch pan .
res full.
turn wheels .
the box will move lots of fluid all by its self .
this is why you don't turn the wheels on a ford with engine off . it will toss its fluid all over . and some gm do it also .
Sounds easier. You guys think there's a realistic chance of there being crud in the box that will push itself out just from turning it back and forth though?
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
When I turn the wheel with one of the hoses even a bit loose, the box sprays oil out. I'm guessing if there is any junk in there, some of it'll spray out. Just aim the line into a bucket.
Kind of a messy PITA job. The biggest pain is trying to tighten the pressure line on the back of the pump. I'm not sure what the right tool is, but nothing really fits with the return line so close. I ended up cutting my only 16mm wrench into pieces, first to make a stubby so I could come from underneath, then to make a homemade 12-point flare. Maybe it's tight enough. Couldn't get much leverage with half a wrench.
And I did manage to dump almost all the fluid onto the ground too. During that flushing procedure, I stupidly didn't plug the return at the pump, so my first bottle of fluid just fell out onto the ground.
After that I guess it worked. Oh, and also the cap needs to be on the res since I guess it splashes around a lot when the wheel is turned. 
And I did manage to dump almost all the fluid onto the ground too. During that flushing procedure, I stupidly didn't plug the return at the pump, so my first bottle of fluid just fell out onto the ground.
After that I guess it worked. Oh, and also the cap needs to be on the res since I guess it splashes around a lot when the wheel is turned.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I took mine apart today to paint the brackets and flush at the same time. Forgot to put the cap on tight when bleeding and lost about a pint in the driveway. Doah! Haha.
I only changed the steering box with my crossover swap (left the pump and hydrobooster alone). I just disconnected the lines from the box and flipped them up in the engine bay so they were high enough not to drip. Didn't lose much fluid, so the main loss will just be whatever the new (used) box was short.
Yup, I have no doubt in can be done without making a mess if you pay attention. Filling the res with the return line hanging was just dumb... At some point I think the pressure line fell down or dropped off whatever I had it hanging on and poured out fluid. Then the whole thing about aligning a catch bucket with where the fluid is going to fall...
Oh well, just the way it is with some jobs. I often wonder how professionals do certain jobs when I'm hanging upside down someplace, cussing, with half my body soaking in some fluid.
I have power assist back now. All seems well, but I'll be paranoid until it works for a while. For me, that's the problem with working on all my own stuff. I ignorantly trust shops more since I just show up and get it without seeing all the iffy stuff that happened during the repair. You think I'd know better after the number of failures I've had from shops, including throwing a rod through the oil pan on the interstate after an engine rebuild.
Oh well, just the way it is with some jobs. I often wonder how professionals do certain jobs when I'm hanging upside down someplace, cussing, with half my body soaking in some fluid.
I have power assist back now. All seems well, but I'll be paranoid until it works for a while. For me, that's the problem with working on all my own stuff. I ignorantly trust shops more since I just show up and get it without seeing all the iffy stuff that happened during the repair. You think I'd know better after the number of failures I've had from shops, including throwing a rod through the oil pan on the interstate after an engine rebuild.
How long is the drag link and how much thread do you have sticking out on the DLEs? I'm afraid mine is too short.
I tried it with a standard Chevy DLE on the steering arm and the length was about perfect with both ends threaded in almost the whole way. However, those DLEs have larger taper on the stud and it won't go in far enough to get a cotter pin in. Anybody know of a similar DLE with the TRE size stud on it? That's what the ORD short-bodied DLEs have - the smaller stud like our stock TREs.
I tried it with a standard Chevy DLE on the steering arm and the length was about perfect with both ends threaded in almost the whole way. However, those DLEs have larger taper on the stud and it won't go in far enough to get a cotter pin in. Anybody know of a similar DLE with the TRE size stud on it? That's what the ORD short-bodied DLEs have - the smaller stud like our stock TREs.
I'm not sure how much it will cost you to swap out the ends that don't fit, but I can tell you that a good quality reamer with the Chevy taper can be purchased for around $85.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=151307953315
I literally just received mine last night on the recommendation from EMF (formerly Evolution Machine).... The monster heim people.
If the only problem you're still facing is a too-small tapered hole, it's probably your fastest and simplest fix....
-G
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=151307953315
I literally just received mine last night on the recommendation from EMF (formerly Evolution Machine).... The monster heim people.
If the only problem you're still facing is a too-small tapered hole, it's probably your fastest and simplest fix....
-G
Chris from ORD called me up last night, which I thought was great service. The only thing I've bought from them for this project was the pitman arm, but he walked through the whole setup with me and discussed options. It turns out the drag link for a D44/10B (38 5/8") is 1" longer than the drag link for a D60 (37 5/8"), which is what I must have. The WFO steering arm also has a little different geometry than the ORD one. All added up the DL was about 2" short, so to line everything up would be only 3/4" of DLE thread into each end of the DL.
I ended up cutting the DL in the middle and inserting about 2" of tubing.
I ended up cutting the DL in the middle and inserting about 2" of tubing.
Blue, I'm not following what your situation is/was. Did you have an ORD kit and needed to replace the DRE's? Or trying to gin up crossover without the whole kit?
I pieced it together over a couple of years. Got knuckles and steering arm from one CK5 member and the drag link with ends from another. The box came from a pick-n-pull and then I bought the pitman arm. As for using standard DLEs and stuff, that was just my own experimentation trying to get it to work. I guess modifying stuff is to be expected.
