Here's some pictures I just snapped for ya: Ubolts look goofy, I haven't decided if I'm gonna run a zero rate up front yet, so it's not finished
The Superlift arm would only give you ~2.5" of clearance from the leaf at ride height. I just want to put it out there, that you'll be really, really close under compression if you run a drop pitman. These trucks dont have the proper shape to the frame for crossover, so things get tight real quick. The draglink is pretty darn flat anyway due to this same reason, I don't think you'd really find it necessary unless you've got like 8" or more lift. I have zero "noticeable" roll steer with my setup, and its built to wheel in the rocks.
I have ES2026R (right hand thread) on both ends of my draglink. That is the stock GM Drag Link End for all solid axle 4x4s (at least of the 73-88 years). These handle I think around 60* angles, whereas TREs only handle about 20*s. They're quite a bit longer than TREs, and I think the actual length of tube I needed, minus the inserts, was 26". I ran two right hand threads because I only need one spare, and the left-hand inserts were more expensive. I could only adjust the drag link to within about 1/8" because I have to do full turns, but that is pretty damn close for a wheeler. It drives better on the highway than my DD in the end anyways.
I would highly recommend running DLEs instead of TREs for a couple reasons:
They are more plentiful at parts stores because all solid-axle GMs (K5s, Subs, 1/2-1 ton trucks) used them. This also means they are a bit cheaper.
TREs tend to be special order sometimes in my region (Reno)
Most suspensions need the angle capability of a DLE (that's why there are special ends for drag links)
You can't run GM left/right hand corresponding TREs. Everything but 1 tons used a longer drivers side TRE with a hole for the steering stabilizer (the 1tons actually use a ~52" drivers side TRE that is the whole damn bar and costs $60+, go figure it's cheaper to make a 1.5" DOM tie rod than it is to rebuild the stock one
). I suppose you could use it, but it is known for bending at the hole. If you want to run left/right hand thread TREs, your best option is to use ES2234R (pass. side blazer-3/4 ton TRE) and ES2010L (W-series Dodge TRE). These Dodge ends are obtainable, but in AK and NV, they are more expensive and not as well stocked as GM ends because they just never sold as many. My truck is built with available parts as the number one factor, so this killed it for me. If I'm driving home through Canada for the summer, or making a road trip to Moab for spring break, I want to know that I can get parts at any parts store. This is probably my favorite thing about owning 4 GM trucks too.
EDIT:
I just went and looked more carefully at your pictures (difficult on an iPhone). Looks like you are running GM DLEs on the draglink, so that's good. It sounds like you have enough room for adjustment that your drag link should be fine in length. So long as you have at least 7/8" of each end threaded in, the threads won't be a point of failure (at least not due to too little threads). I do agree that you should eventually invest in new arms. Having the angle correction for the camber in the knuckles will make your ends last a lot longer. I was patient and got a used set for a lot cheaper than new, and you'll probably be OK for a good while with those arms. I will suggest getting arms that use a set screw (I chose Ballistic, also cheaper than most) instead of a kingpin spring or shims. ORD has some of the best arms I've seen (correct ackerman angle and length for common pitmans), but I don't care for kingpin springs with big tires (40"+).
Looks like you're steering is good enough for a while on that 60. Getting the right pitman is probably going to be tricky. You're probably going to have some understeer because pitmans that work well on GMs are usually shorter than most steering arms on the market (another reason I like ORDs arms). It's easier to make a custom steering arm (made them before) than a custom pitman arm, so I'd suggest getting the pitman that fits you well and then figuring out steering arms later.
