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Crossover Hell

garydan

garydan

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jun 9, 2009
Posts
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Location
Port Saint Lucie, Fl.
Well I bought a Dana 60 with a High Steer crossover setup on it already. Come to find out the steering arm holes aren't tapered. The axle came with a tierod that had the stock TRE's. After several similar suggestions I went ahead and purchased a new Tie rod from ORD with their nice and short HD ends.

I went to tighten those down onto the histeer arm and they pulled right through the hole in the steering arms. I then noticed there was never any taper in the holes compared with the stock location for the tierod.

So now I'm deciding on whether or not to upgrade the arms to ORD arms to keep the high steer, or just throw the tie rod in the stock location. The tierod fits in the stock location, but about a half inch more thread is showing on each TRE, to make up for the difference in length from the histeer monting location.

Also, I currently have a brand new pitman arm from WFO concepts that was reamed for the stock DLE's. Now I'm wondering if I have to purchase a new Pitman arm if I decide to get the ORD steering arms and ORD drag-link (with associated HD TLE's like my tie-rod)

Opinions? :doah:
 
garydan said:
Well I bought a Dana 60 with a High Steer crossover setup on it already. Come to find out the steering arm holes aren't tapered. The axle came with a tierod that had the stock TRE's. After several similar suggestions I went ahead and purchased a new Tie rod from ORD with their nice and short HD ends.

I went to tighten those down onto the histeer arm and they pulled right through the hole in the steering arms. I then noticed there was never any taper in the holes compared with the stock location for the tierod.

So now I'm deciding on whether or not to upgrade the arms to ORD arms to keep the high steer, or just throw the tie rod in the stock location. The tierod fits in the stock location, but about a half inch more thread is showing on each TRE, to make up for the difference in length from the histeer monting location.

Also, I currently have a brand new pitman arm from WFO concepts that was reamed for the stock DLE's. Now I'm wondering if I have to purchase a new Pitman arm if I decide to get the ORD steering arms and ORD drag-link (with associated HD TLE's like my tie-rod)

Opinions? :doah:
Click to expand...


Dude DONT BOOTY Fab Steering or brakes. The arms you got are for Spherical rod ends. Prob 3/4" holes. Pull the arms off and find a local machine shop. Get them to taper 1.5" per foot or 7.15 degrees for GM 1 ton TREs. Should only run you $50. Those tapers are there to locate the load across material and prevent "walk" out. Just bring the ends you intend to use so the machinist will be on the same page and can test fit.
 
garydan said:
Well I bought a Dana 60 with a High Steer crossover setup on it already. Come to find out the steering arm holes aren't tapered. The axle came with a tierod that had the stock TRE's. After several similar suggestions I went ahead and purchased a new Tie rod from ORD with their nice and short HD ends.

I went to tighten those down onto the histeer arm and they pulled right through the hole in the steering arms. I then noticed there was never any taper in the holes compared with the stock location for the tierod.

So now I'm deciding on whether or not to upgrade the arms to ORD arms to keep the high steer, or just throw the tie rod in the stock location. The tierod fits in the stock location, but about a half inch more thread is showing on each TRE, to make up for the difference in length from the histeer monting location.
Click to expand...


If you want to keep the high steer, buy a reamer or take the steering arm to a machine shop and have them ream out the arm for a tapered drag link end.

Only thing I'd say there is be wary that high steer is a lot harder on knuckles.

garydan said:
Also, I currently have a brand new pitman arm from WFO concepts that was reamed for the stock DLE's. Now I'm wondering if I have to purchase a new Pitman arm if I decide to get the ORD steering arms and ORD drag-link (with associated HD TLE's like my tie-rod)

Opinions? :doah:
Click to expand...

GM basically used the same size draglinks and tie rod ends for all their 1/2, 3/4 and 1 ton trucks. I'm 99.9% sure the stock stuff and ORD stuff are the same size. The HD that ORD claims their rod ends to be is there to advertise their construction, not their size.
 
The hole is currently too large. I can't add material then ream it out to the correct taper. This truck will probably also never see rocks, but I do like the way the histeer setup looks. :D
 
garydan said:
The hole is currently too large. I can't add material then ream it out to the correct taper. This truck will probably also never see rocks, but I do like the way the histeer setup looks. :D
Click to expand...

Is the draglink hole tapered?

You can return the ORD TRE's and go with heim joints instead.
 
garydan said:
The hole is currently too large. I can't add material then ream it out to the correct taper. This truck will probably also never see rocks, but I do like the way the histeer setup looks. :D
Click to expand...


Looks like its ORD arms.

Crossover does look cool, I like the fact it will actually turn tight. Instead of the "ok" turn in one direction. And the battleship/valdez turn in the other.
 
garydan said:
No, I don't believe it is. But I can tighten down the DLE without it binding up. I've heard heim joints are something to stay away from.
Click to expand...

Tapered DRE/TRE in a non-tapered hole is a really bad idea, just like putting a straight bolt (for a heim) into a tapered hole is a really bad idea.

Sounds like its time for a new steering arm or two.
 
I wouldn't worry about running heims in the tie rod. I wouldn't run heims in the draglink because of the angles it will see during suspension articulation. The tie rod stays level so it will work fine with heims.
 
mrk5 said:
I wouldn't worry about running heims in the tie rod. I wouldn't run heims in the draglink because of the angles it will see during suspension articulation. The tie rod stays level so it will work fine with heims.
Click to expand...

Do you or anyone else know what size joint (and thread) I need and where to get them?
 
garydan said:
Do you or anyone else know what size joint (and thread) I need and where to get them?
Click to expand...

The joint size is measured by the through bolt, so measure the size of the hole in your steering arms and that's what you need (probably 5/8" or 3/4").

Not sure what the thread pitch is for GM TRE's, but beware that your tie rod may have left hand thread on one side and right hand thread on the other, it may be hard to find a left hand thread heim joint.
 
I would just buy new arms, or get one and go low steer. I can't see the pictures at work right now, but I think I remember your arms were just flat steel right? I would buy an arm with the angle milled into it to correct the angle on the TRE. That way you can run the TRE's you already have which will last longer than heims anyway. Sky's arms aren't tooo expensive, and I like them because they are all one piece machined.
 
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