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Crossover steer ?

jk5blazer

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Braselton, Ga
I need to know how much drop my drop pitman arm needs to have. Its an 84 with 4 inchs of lift. Im doing the crossover/hi-steer combo on a 60. I did a search and all I found was the part numbers for the 1.5 and 2 inch drop pitman arms, but didnt find out how much drop I need. Thanks
 
From another thread. http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=173320

pvfjr said:
Well it is something that a shadetree mediocre mechanic can do, if he's ambitious.

It's pretty easy if you have a Dana 60, but if you have a Dana 44 or a 10 bolt, it's a little more involved. For them, you first have to figure out if you have a flat top knuckle or not. Flat top knuckles were found on Dana 44's, mostly in the mid 70's. You can pick one up at a swap meet, junkyard, ebay, etc, for about $20 if you're lucky. You need one on the passenger side. Then it has to be machined, drilled, and tapped for the steering arm. You would pay to have that part done. Then you would buy the steering arm from someone, I recommend Sky-Manufacturing. They sell there arms for around $100, and I think they'll machine your knuckle for $45. Then you have to get a 2wd steering box, or the sector shaft from one. You can swap your entire steering box with a 2wd one, or you can swap the sector shaft from a 2wd steering box into your 4wd steering box. I would recommend just swapping the whole box if you feel uncomfortable taking your box apart. Then you need to get a draglink and a pitman arm. I made my own draglink for about $80. I also found a pitman arm off a ford van, and had it reamed to fit the 1-ton TRE's that I was using on my draglink. All totaled, the pitman arm cost me $23.50, and I like to think it's better than the superlift pitman arms that sell for $70, for complicated reasons I won't get into. It can get expensive, but there's ways to save a lot of money if you try. For example, here's the breakdown of my expenses.

2wd steering box - free (depends on how resourceful you are)
Pitman arm - $23.50
Homemade draglink from 1.5"x.375wall - $50
ES2234R TRE's from parts plus - $15 each
Jam nuts from sky - $2.50 ea
Steering arm from Sky - $135

-------------------------
Total - $243.50

Cost of ORD kit - $400, and mine is beefier. :D

Things will vary a bit with a D44 install, but prices can be similar if you work hard at hunting for deals.
 
Basically, this is the best thing to shoot for.

DSC00961.sized.jpg
 
pvfjr said:
Basically, this is the best thing to shoot for.

DSC00961.sized.jpg

Is that the Ford Van pitman arm or aftermarket? All I'm asking for is the amount of drop that I would need? i got from the links above that you can use a van drop pitman but no one knows the year or model of the ford van to use, and even then you still have to hone them out to fit the DLE of the chevy. I know companys make aftermarket pitman arms but I dont know how much drop is enough or to much for that matter. Thanks for any help
 
Well if you can get 1.5 or 2" drop arms, either would probably be fine. I never measured the drop on mine that I got off a 78 Econoline (some people do know what year). The arm can be found on the econolines from 75-79 I believe, if not more places. I've heard there's some F-150's and wagoneers that have them too. I paid $3.50 for the arm at the yard, then paid a local machinist $20 to ream it for a chevy 1-ton TRE. Not too much work really. Just stay away from the big 4" drop arms that everyone uses. If you want I can try and figure out exactly how much drop mine has, cause it came out to be just right.
 
makovai said:
Excellent thread,
I'd like to add. If you go with the entire 2WD box the diameter of the steering shaft spline is smaller, this is a great thing if you plan to swap the steering shaft for a cherokee u-joint steer shaft.
I just finished my cross steer and replaced the entire box with a 1978 suburban 2WD box and a 1991 Jeep cherokee steering shaft and a trailmaster ford drop pitman arm and i didn't make a single mod. Everything bolted up like it was meant to go together.

Just my 2¢
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=147102


Info you might find useful.
 
That's not completely true, it was a year thing, not strictly a 2wd/4wd thing. My 2wd box swapped right in, and I've seen 4wd boxes with both sizes.
 
pvfjr said:
That's not completely true, it was a year thing, not strictly a 2wd/4wd thing. My 2wd box swapped right in, and I've seen 4wd boxes with both sizes.

Any details on which 4wd boxes that match up?
 
I'm not sure. We've had so many steering boxes around here, with four trail rigs being built out of the same garage. They're all mixed up, and when it came time to use them, no one could remember which is which or where they came from. I suppose I could have looked to see if it followed the o-ring vs. flange issue for the lines, but I never paid enough attention. We had enough of the different rag joints around so that it didn't matter. Eventually, we just got into the habit of disconnecting the steering shaft from the rag joint when we pulled boxes off a rig, so that the rag joints stayed with their respective steering boxes. Then you never have a problem.
 
pvfjr said:
I'm not sure. We've had so many steering boxes around here, with four trail rigs being built out of the same garage. They're all mixed up, and when it came time to use them, no one could remember which is which or where they came from. I suppose I could have looked to see if it followed the o-ring vs. flange issue for the lines, but I never paid enough attention. We had enough of the different rag joints around so that it didn't matter. Eventually, we just got into the habit of disconnecting the steering shaft from the rag joint when we pulled boxes off a rig, so that the rag joints stayed with their respective steering boxes. Then you never have a problem.

Don't worry about going through that much work. Thanks for the info.
 
word! the 2 different input sizes dont really have anything to do with 2wd/4wd. at one point in time i knew which size wrench would fit over each at the splines and flatpot:doah:
 

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