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Crossover steering arm question

hidesertwheelin

hidesertwheelin

1/2 ton status
Joined
Nov 13, 2004
Posts
780
Reaction score
4
Location
Hesperia, CA
I'm gathering parts to do a cross over for when I get my Dana 60 installed and have a few questions. I found a set of arms locally that I am looking to get. The sell said they are tapped/tapered for 1-ton tie-rod ends. So I should be able to use my stock tie-rod until I can buy a better one? I'm running 4" lift springs and a zero rate in the front. Do I need a drop pitman arm from the 2wd box? Also, do I need a bent drag link with this small of a lift? I'm assuming yes, but figured I'd check before I look.


http://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/D60-Heavy-Duty-Cross-Over-Steering-Kit/3163/3168/3462/4153
 
hidesertwheelin said:
I'm gathering parts to do a cross over for when I get my Dana 60 installed and have a few questions. I found a set of arms locally that I am looking to get. The sell said they are tapped/tapered for 1-ton tie-rod ends. So I should be able to use my stock tie-rod until I can buy a better one? I'm running 4" lift springs and a zero rate in the front. Do I need a drop pitman arm from the 2wd box? Also, do I need a bent drag link with this small of a lift? I'm assuming yes, but figured I'd check before I look.


http://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/D60-Heavy-Duty-Cross-Over-Steering-Kit/3163/3168/3462/4153
Click to expand...


Yes you can use the stock tie rod if you dont do highsteer. If you do a hydra assist you may want something beefier but until then its just fine.

I too am running a 4 inch lift with zero rates and you'll definitely need the drop pitman arm. The idea behind the drop pitman is to get the crossover bar in more of a neutral position as opposed to a high angle which can lead to major bump steer. You want a pitman arm the same length hole to hole as your steering arm. I think a bit over 6 inches is what it normally is. I got my drop pitman from ORD. Its about keeping the steering ratio 1:1 with the length of pitman/steering arm.

You definitely want the bent drag link as well. I got mine from ORD. The bent helps with clearance and bumpsteer as well. Theres a crossmember in the front that may hit if you get a straight one.
 
make sure the arms have angle built in to them were the tie rod ends attach for better flex and joint life.

lots of cheeper arms do NOT and thus why lots of people sell them and a good deal price.
 
sweetk30 said:
make sure the arms have angle built in to them were the tie rod ends attach for better flex and joint life.

lots of cheeper arms do NOT and thus why lots of people sell them and a good deal price.
Click to expand...

What is your opinion of the ones in the link? He said they are tapered for a 1-ton tie-rod.
 
hidesertwheelin said:
What is your opinion of the ones in the link? He said they are tapered for a 1-ton tie-rod.
Click to expand...


Those ones are perfect. k30 meant the angle cut on the mounting surface of the arm, which wfo has done to their arms. The angle allows the tie rod to be in a position to make sure you have enough range of motion when flexing.
 
I have those arms, they are rock solid and eliminate the springs. Keep them adjusted and you're good to go.

When I originally put my crossover on, I had a D44. Same 4" lift and 1" zero rate. I ran a drop pitman and bent draglink from ORD (their kit). The bent draglink was contacting the passenger side leaf spring while turning left. I also didn't like how close the drop pitman arm was to the driver side leaf springs.

Not sure how EastBay ^^ (dude, I can't read your screen name lol) is getting away with it, but I couldn't. It's one or the other. Run a drop pitman with straight draglink. Or run a bent draglink with a straight pitman. All of those are supplied by ORD. I bought my draglink stuff and arms from WFO. Cut/weld to length. I'm actually running a straight draglink with straight pitman arm. Does perfectly fine. But I'm also running an ORD engine crossmember, so I have the room.

My D44 even had a taller passenger side steering arm. Just wouldn't work. I think the D60 is taller, from the spring perch to the top of the knuckle, so that helps. I could probably try a bent draglink again, but not a drop pitman too.




 
Here's a bunch of pictures from my D44 crossover. Like I said, the D60 is taller, so it helps. But, man, I don't know how you guys get away with the drop pitman arms on low lift trucks.

Then again, I reverse arch as often as possible lol. I'd smash my old pitman all day long lol




Just to clear the leaf springs, I turned the bent draglink UP, LOL. Just to look, never ran it.






 
for reference

this is what I'm calling the "straight" pitman arm, also found at ORD. I want to say mine is a FORD with re-tapper. Same thing.


 
K85 Octane said:
I have those arms, they are rock solid and eliminate the springs. Keep them adjusted and you're good to go.

When I originally put my crossover on, I had a D44. Same 4" lift and 1" zero rate. I ran a drop pitman and bent draglink from ORD (their kit). The bent draglink was contacting the passenger side leaf spring while turning left. I also didn't like how close the drop pitman arm was to the driver side leaf springs.

Not sure how EastBay ^^ (dude, I can't read your screen name lol) is getting away with it, but I couldn't. It's one or the other. Run a drop pitman with straight draglink. Or run a bent draglink with a straight pitman. All of those are supplied by ORD. I bought my draglink stuff and arms from WFO. Cut/weld to length. I'm actually running a straight draglink with straight pitman arm. Does perfectly fine. But I'm also running an ORD engine crossmember, so I have the room.

My D44 even had a taller passenger side steering arm. Just wouldn't work. I think the D60 is taller, from the spring perch to the top of the knuckle, so that helps. I could probably try a bent draglink again, but not a drop pitman too.




Click to expand...


Haha I know its a hard name!

As far as clearance goes I have quite a bit on both sides. At current full flex im getting close to the pitman arm but the other side is fine. I think ruffstuff arms are taller. There also not springless so im still using the cap which accounts for a small amount in the upward direction.

I can see if I was flexing more and on 52s id probably run into issues. After seeing full hydro work im sure ill go down that road eventually.
 
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