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Crossover steering help

Modblacksmith

Modblacksmith

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I have a 72 C/20 that I did the 52" spring swap and crossover steering. The problem I'm having is when I turn its shoving the truck back and forth. I've heard of others having this problem and fixing it with a panyard bar. I want to know why its doing this and if there's a way to fix it without the panyard bar?:confused:

Info: Dana 60 with a flat steering arm on knuckle, 3/4 heim joints, 98 Dodge 2500 pitman arm, 73 2wd steering box. I'll try to get some pics up tonight to help.

I know others have asked this same kind of question but I couldn't find anything on it in my search.
 
Modblacksmith said:
I have a 72 C/20 that I did the 52" spring swap and crossover steering. The problem I'm having is when I turn its shoving the truck back and forth. I've heard of others having this problem and fixing it with a panyard bar. I want to know why its doing this and if there's a way to fix it without the panyard bar?:confused:

Info: Dana 60 with a flat steering arm on knuckle, 3/4 heim joints, 98 Dodge 2500 pitman arm, 73 2wd steering box. I'll try to get some pics up tonight to help.

I know others have asked this same kind of question but I couldn't find anything on it in my search.
Click to expand...
well when you have crossover steering, you are pushing the steering arm sideways, and since most trucks that have it also have a lifted spring which puts the spring in an arch and the leverage on the bushings is greater, if you had solid steel bushings it probably would not move but also it wouldn't flex.
So the only solution is to have a PANHARD bar that will hold the axle sideways and only the arm can turn.
That is the why, the how I will let you do the research or someone else will post up.
 
I could see not using a panhard bar if you have hydro assist. Doesn't that put all the stress on the axle and tierod?
 
I've seen other rigs with bigger tires and more lift than I have "35's and around 7 inches of lift" not running either without problems. I was wondering if I had done something wrong with how I have mine set up. I have the parts I would need to build a panhard bar but I'm trying to avoid it and hydo assist is expensive.
 
ive also heard regardless of cross over and or hydro assist,that a panhard is a good idea with 52s up front because of their length. it will tighten up the steering a lot.
 
How long are your shackles. Its not the springs as much as the shackles that do it.

First thing I would do is put good poly bushings in the springs and get some of kurts heavy duty FUSH (front upper shackle hangers). That should take out a lot of the play.

I never had an issue with crossover and stock 52s on 36in TSLs running poly bushings and 7.25 shackles.
 
I built my own b52 kit thats 1 1/4'' taller than Diy4x kit so my shackles are 8 1/2'' long. I have there bushing threw out the entire truck too. I was thinking about getting the uper flush kit, now I think I will.
Is there any trick to building a panhard bar?
 
8.5" shackles are looooooong. Can we get a picture of your setup or at least shackle angle? The FUSH kti would be nice cause you could relocate you shackle mount while you're at it and use a shorter shackle. Just an idea.
 
I'm at work but I'll post some up when I get home this eve. My shackles are leaned way back as of right now. That makes alot of sence now, looks like I need to order some parts from DIY4x now. I feel like an idiot:doah: I mite build some cross tied shackles too.
 
Thanks to all for your imput. I'll try the shackle thing first and if that doesn't work I'll build a PANHARD bar. If I ever take the time to I'll start a build tread in the driveway section on everything I've done to the truck.
 
Cross tied shackles will help some. Also shorten them up to 7" ish.

IF you do use a panhard bar, which I dont care for on leaf suspension personally, then the rules of panhard law are as follows:

The panhard must be as close to the length of the draglink as possible, exact is the goal

The panhard must be as close to the same angle as the draglink, exact is the goal again.

It must be mounted on the frame at the same side as the steering box and hook into the axle at the same side as the draglink.

Just for simplicities sake Ill also tell you that with a leaf suspension one end of the panhard bar should be a bushing. The other can be a bushing or heim joint.

1.5in DOM with a 1/4 wall is more than adequate material.

3/4x3/4 heims with a misalignment spacer and 9/16ths hard ware is the right size.

You could step up to 7/8x7/8s with 5/8ths hardware if your gonna run 38s+ since these trucks arent exactly light weight.
 
Thanks stomis, I have 3/4'' heims and 9/16 bushings lying around right now if I have to build one. The plan as of right now is to run 37's on H2 wheels and its mostly a street, light trails and tow pig that is over built. What are your thoughts about running one in the rear for towing?
 
Shackles are way long. I run 6" shackles with my 52s and I think most run 7.25" which seemed too long to me.

And kinda off topic but what reason did you use heim joints for steering joints?

I really dont like panhards with leaf springs, there was a discussion on here not long ago about it. Leaf springs cause your axle to travel on a different arch then what a panhard will, thus you will have two opposing forces which makes for crappy ride. Just my opinion though, some like panhards with leaf springs.

Personally I would do something different with the shackles and from there look into hydro assist. My offroad truck drives better on the street with hydro assist then my street truck does.:doah:
 
Yeah judging by the pic you could get away with 6.5-7 inch shackles and prolly get the caster close to OE spec which will help with pinion angle some since you have dropped front mounts.

Hyd Assist is not as expensive as you might think. You can DIY and put together a good setup for $150-$200. Check out surplus center and this thread
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=159921
I dont drive mine on the street anymore, but even on the trail I can definitely feel that it fixes the side to side motion of the front.
 
Modblacksmith said:
I have a 72 C/20 that I did the 52" spring swap and crossover steering. The problem I'm having is when I turn its shoving the truck back and forth. I've heard of others having this problem and fixing it with a panyard bar. I want to know why its doing this and if there's a way to fix it without the panyard bar?:confused:

Info: Dana 60 with a flat steering arm on knuckle, 3/4 heim joints, 98 Dodge 2500 pitman arm, 73 2wd steering box. I'll try to get some pics up tonight to help.

I know others have asked this same kind of question but I couldn't find anything on it in my search.
Click to expand...

A C20 is a 3/4 ton 2WD. :whistle:
 
4X4high, "C" can also stand for custom as in Custom/20 which is the designation for a 72 3/4 4wd.:whistle:
 
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