Crossover Steering Questions?????

[marsk5]

I have done a lot of research on this topic but couldnt find the right answers.

1. Does the drag link and tie rod bars have to be threaded? or just use a weld bung?

2. Does the steering have to be raised or the standard size? I was looking at sky manufacturing and they had two different types

any help would be so helpful, ive been searching the internet for 2 days now

 

[Stomis]

Firstly tapping your draglink/tierod isnt really done on our size rigs considering most every steering kit uses DOM tube thats too large to tap for tierod ends. Threaded bungs are pretty standard.

Secondly dont plan on making your own draglink w/o putting a bend in it to clear the stock engine crossmember.

When you say raised do you mean the steering arm it's self? If so generally speaking this is decided by the thickness of your spring pack. If you are using a zero rate/ez inch then its safe to say you will more than likely need a raised arm.

 

[70jimmy]

I have been using the weld in threaded ends and heim joints on both the crossover bar and the bar that runs between the wheels.

 

[K85 Octane]

my experience:

ORD taps their rods, good and tight threads, no problem
I also use weld in ends too, no problem

I used to have a D44, zerorate moved 1.5" forward, 4" lift springs, bent draglink, ORD pitman arm, and TALL keyed arm. I ended up with draglink to spring clearance issues. To solve, use less pitman arm drop (ford van arm), high clearance crossmember, and run straight draglink. Or don't run a zerorate and keep the tierod in the factory under-the-knuckle position, NOT the flattop's over-the-knuckle position.

 

[Stomis]

my experience:

ORD taps their rods, good and tight threads, no problem
I also use weld in ends too, no problem

I used to have a D44, zerorate moved 1.5" forward, 4" lift springs, bent draglink, ORD pitman arm, and TALL keyed arm. I ended up with draglink to spring clearance issues. To solve, use less pitman arm drop (ford van arm), high clearance crossmember, and run straight draglink. Or don't run a zerorate and keep the tierod in the factory under-the-knuckle position, NOT the flattop's over-the-knuckle position.

What size is ORDs steering that the ID is small enough to tap? I was under the impression that generally speaking beef aftermarket steering is usually 1.5in 1/4 wall.

 

[K85 Octane]

both, their bent draglink and monster tierod are tapped. The tierod is 1.5, .375 wall. IIRC. The bent draglink I do not remember and unfortunately sold to Olanchmedic otherwise I would look.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

What size is ORDs steering that the ID is small enough to tap? I was under the impression that generally speaking beef aftermarket steering is usually 1.5in 1/4 wall.

We build the vast majority of our steering out of 1.25"x.25" wall or 1.5"x.375" wall tubing, directly threaded.

1.5"x.25" wall is common for weld-in inserts because of the size the inserts are made. To use smaller tubing than that it would have to be 1.25"x.120" which you probably wouldn't want to do.

We directly thread our tube so that you don't have to trust a weld in your steering system, you don't have to worry about messing up the threads with the weld (and needing L&R 7/8"-18 taps) and because for the vast majority of applications, we already know the length so you don't have to bent/cut/weld anything. Just screw the parts together.

 

[marsk5]

i am going to run 4" lift springs and a zero rate. the sky manufacturing has one that is 7/8ths of an inch taller than theyre standard one. How tall is ORD steering arm?

 

[Stomis]

We build the vast majority of our steering out of 1.25"x.25" wall or 1.5"x.375" wall tubing, directly threaded.

1.5"x.25" wall is common for weld-in inserts because of the size the inserts are made. To use smaller tubing than that it would have to be 1.25"x.120" which you probably wouldn't want to do.

We directly thread our tube so that you don't have to trust a weld in your steering system, you don't have to worry about messing up the threads with the weld (and needing L&R 7/8"-18 taps) and because for the vast majority of applications, we already know the length so you don't have to bent/cut/weld anything. Just screw the parts together.

Well that explains it then. I have to say compared to 85% of the other stuff I see on the market thats not the norm.



To the OP:

Do yourself a favor and call ORD. They'll set you up, for a good price and go through what your setup will need.