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crossover steering

kyle.rj133

kyle.rj133

1/2 ton status
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Location
Hooper, UT
How much do you have in your crossover set up?
Its time to do the tie rods, pitman arm and replace the sloppy steering box in my 76 k10. Figured price might be around the same to do crossover?

would it even be worth doing for a daily driven truck with 4 inch lift and 33's occasional off roading?
 
I paid about 800$ from WFO concepts for mine. I had a rebuilt 2wd box laying around from a previous truck though, and I personally love it. Mines alot bigger, but it made a massive difference for me personally. Make sure you get a box from your year truck, as the fittings changed in I believe 80. Or something to consider, maybe switch over to serpentine and use the newer PS pump and a box from a newer model truck
 
Its one of the best upgrades you can do. Its more expensive for a truck with a dana 44/10bolt because you have to have the knuckle machined but as far as driveability its immensely beneficial.
 
Also the weld in frame repair and brace kit are very recommened as well. On a side note I also bought ORDs 1 1/4in tierod as well, well worth it. Uses a dodge balljoint and a factory chevy pass side one. Me personally I had to cut the dodge joint down about 2in or so cuz threading it in sucked, not sayin its mandatory but made it a lot easier
 
My crossover total = 361.99

Instead of doing a 2wd steering box, I just used a 2wd sector shaft that I got for free from owenst7 (Thanks!). I believe he got it for about $15 at a junk yard out of a fullsize Ford van. He had a thread in the for sale section for a while, as he was picking them up frequently and passing them along to CK5 since he was often at the junk yard. You could get more details there about what sort of sector shaft you'd need to get.

I bought the Dana 60 spring-delete steering arms from WFO = $199. I paid no shipping because I happened to be driving by Auburn, CA and could pick it up. It's only an hour from me, anyway.

I bought a chunk of 1.5"x.25 wall DOM for for my drag link for $50.

I bought my pitman arm for $30 from owenst7, which had been re-tapered for a Drag link end. He had that done for $30 locally, so he was essentially the middle man, making no coin off the job.

I bought drag link ends from WFO - $60

Weld-in bungs from WFO - $22.

I also built myself a nice beefy tie rod w/ offset TREs from Ruffstuff Specialties, but if you already have a good tie rod, you wouldn't necessarily have to do that. It cost me another $120ish on top of the total listed above.
 
I got mine from ORD, at Xmas when they were 10% off. Did the weld in frame brace as well, a junkyard steering box. I wanna say for around 5 bills I did it :dunno:
 
Steering by far is one of the best mods you can do to a daily driver. I would change every square body I have over to crossover eventually. Even my dually that will have only about 2" of lift just to have the nicer steering
 
454Sub said:
I paid about 800$ from WFO concepts for mine. I had a rebuilt 2wd box laying around from a previous truck though, and I personally love it. Mines alot bigger, but it made a massive difference for me personally. Make sure you get a box from your year truck, as the fittings changed in I believe 80. Or something to consider, maybe switch over to serpentine and use the newer PS pump and a box from a newer model truck
Click to expand...

whats all need for the serpentine kit? I have no a/c.
 
Is high steer recommended or is it just to keep your tie rod from getting hit while off roading?
 
I personally didnt use it but southern I'LL is mud, In the rocks handy dandy, out here not so much
 
My opinion is that it's not worth it for most guys. Serious serious rock crawlers: sure. I drove the Rubicon a couple weeks ago, didn't hit my tie rod even one time. That's constant technical driving for 12 miles. I did build a super beefy 1/4" wall tie rod, so it'll take some serious abuse. For the cost and avoiding the headaches of setting up a high steer system, I'd just rather keep a regular tie rod and make it beefy.
 
I would never put full high steer on a dana 44 / 10 bolt with out aftermarket knuckles. Its just too much stress on top and Ive seen pictures of them broken in half on the trail.

Go with crossover and buy a set of dana 44 knuckles that the tierod goes in from the top.
 
I wouldn't do tierod on top, I ended up with spring clearance issues. Using a zero rate, ended up with draglink clearance issues. I'd do tierod on bottom and use a WFO insert.
 
For serpentine you need everything off the front of the motor, the brackets, waterpump, alt, fan and clutch and ps pump. The waterpump and fan are reverse rotation on serp, and the alt has a little more charging amps, plus I'm just a huge fan of serp, way easier to deal with imo. Probably pick it all up at a yard for under 200. Once you go that route though, u must use a steering box from a newer truck, but that will be mounted to the same 2wd truck you pick up all the other stuff from.
 
What is the best price kit that has a good name behind it? I have flat top knuckles so I most like will just get it taped and drilled at my friends machine shop.

Looking at the front end it looks like there might be clearance issues with the sway bar and crossover?
 
kylerj133 said:
What is the best price kit that has a good name behind it? I have flat top knuckles so I most like will just get it taped and drilled at my friends machine shop.

Looking at the front end it looks like there might be clearance issues with the sway bar and crossover?
Click to expand...

Swaybars gotta go. No way around that.
 
Don't forget the extra 70bucks your gonna have to spend for new balljoints when you have that knuckle milled
 
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