What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Crossover zero-rate clearance?? Dana 44?? PICS

MTBLAZER89

MTBLAZER89

3/4 ton status
 Premium
GMOTM Winner
Joined
Aug 14, 2001
Posts
8,162
Reaction score
2,739
Location
Kalispell, MT
Well I mocked everything up tonight. Pitman arm is tight, and TRE on that end is tight. Knuckle is bolted up not milled or tapped yet, but bolted up tight. Should I get a spacer. Sky offers a 3/8" and parts mike offers a 1/2". I'm not sure how much will be milled off, and if there will be any clearance issues? What do ya think? /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
clearance%201.JPG

clearance%202.JPG

clearance%203.JPG

clearance%204.JPG
 
i would run a spacer, when the pass side is stuffed, the drag link is gonna go down into the spring, and it may bend. seems like a 1/2" would be enough, not sure though /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
I wouldn't run a spacer.

If you have to remove the zero rates I'd do that before running a spacer.
 
[ QUOTE ]
I wouldn't run a spacer.

If you have to remove the zero rates I'd do that before running a spacer.

[/ QUOTE ]

OK but why? not even a 3/8" spacer?
 
That is my opinion. When I do mine if I need to I will ditch the zero rate but I understand why you dont want to Bryan. I think a 3/8 inch spacer will be fine. Hurry up and decide so we can start working. I want to start wrenching. And lets ditch tose inner fender wells while we are at it. /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grind.gif /forums/images/graemlins/weld.gif /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grind.gif /forums/images/graemlins/weld.gif
 
I would try to avoide a spacer. Couple of questions/options that haven't been brought up.

1: Do you have enough range of motion in your TRE's to run a streight drag link. I never liked those Z links anyway.

2: If you were to flip the Z link around and put the shorter level area at the nuckle would it give you more room and still clear your crossmember up top.

3: Can you get a different Z drag link that has the lower bend only a couple of inches away from the threaded area?
 
Well I just bought that draglink, so no a straight one is not an option. Many people run the z-links with no problems.

You can't flip it around the ends are different.

Losing the zero-rates is not an option I need them for clearance and lift. I don't see the big problem with a 3/8 or 1/2" spacer it still uses the stock lenghth studs, and if I tack the spacer to the arm there shouldnt be a problem /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
i don't really see a problem with the spacer either. the only thing i can think of, is preaty much the same problem with going to crossover/highsteer, your putting more stress on the upper ball joint. with that spacer your multiplying it some, but with only 1/2" it shouldn't matter. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif


i hate it when people tell you not to do something and don't give you a reason why. /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
 
The big think is the studs, if you can use the factory stuff, you should be fine. Lower grade fasteners...well, we've been over that before.
 
[ QUOTE ]
i hate it when people tell you not to do something and don't give you a reason why. /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Oh of course he knows why...its common sense the more leverage you put on it the more likely it is to brake. Considering you have herd of people having problems with spacers and you have herd of people having problems with Z type drag links. So why not kill 2 birds with one stone and have less parts in the end (if he has enough range of motion in his TREs)? He may never have a problem if its only a little bit weeker...but why take the chance if there is an easy/better aulturnitive.

So is a spacer even that much cheeper than a streight drag link? I realy don't know but I would dought it the spacer needs to be plazed out, 3 holes drilled, milled flat on both sides. The drag link needs to be cut, drilled, taped. I know the price of steel is outragious but the spacer needs more expensive tooling to make it.

Heck you could always sell your bent drag link to a guy who has more lift than you and wishes he had a bent drag link.


EDIT: I guess you also woulden't have a "zero clearance" fit on the spacer because you can't use the tapered washers on it. So there is the potental for the spacer to move around a bit. However I don't think this will be as big of a deal as having more leverage on the nuckle, studs and everything.
 
I am not worried about the Z-type draglink. Not many people here run a straight draglink because of the crossmember clearance issue. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif

A spacer costs $14.99
A new straight draglink what about $50 to $65 plus the x-member /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif doesn't make much sense to me.
 
Instead of running the draglink like you have it might you try loosening the jam nuts and rotating the lower bend forward? That would raise it up a bit... Something to try.

BTW how long is your draglink?

Andy
 
Yeah I didn't mess with the angles on the ends just sorta eye-balled it. I am gonna order the 1/2" spacer today and have it welded to the arm. Normal 3" ARP studs. I think it will be ok /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
I am at odds whether to weld the spacer to the arm. I don't think it is a good idea because *IF* the arm slips and the studs shear it will shear them below knuckle height. This means you will have to use a drill & EZ outs to get them out. If you don't weld the arm then it *MIGHT* shear the studs above the spacer which would give you room to get Vise grips on the studs to remove them.

I was not that lucky and the spacer slipped on me but if you weld it you gaurantee that the bolts shear below knuckle height.

Harley
 
Still puts the shear point at the knuckle surface. The idea of machining a couple 1/4" holes in the knuckle surface and the bottom of the spacer was brought up in one of my posts. You add some 1/4" dowel rods (metal) into the holes and it moves your shear point between the spacer and arm. Then the spacer can be removed, bolts can be taken out easy and your on the trail again.

One of the steering arm manufacturers keys there arm and spacer to fit together like you are talking about.

Harley
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom