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CUCV Axle Swap into K10 SWB - Questions, Advice, Recommendations etc.

handloader90

handloader90

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A few months ago I started looking for a set of CUCV Axles, I didn't have the cash then, so I went about it kinda lazily.

Saved some funds up and the search got serious. I've found a couple sets, some are reasonable priced and some are evidently made out of solid gold.

I've got a line on some for $1,400, they're about a 2.5 hour drive away from me. They still have the 4.56 ratio and the detroit in the rear. They look to be in very good shape. I'm going to pick them up sometime within the next two weeks.

Now I want to know small things that I can do to add a little strength to them, not looking for chromoly axles shafts and reid knuckles at the moment.

For example, the spring perch studs/ bolts on the housing side. I was over on Pirate4x4 and found a thread that referenced CAT Bolts, supposedly if the U-Bolt loosens up a bit the stud snaps off, I hear that the U-Bolt loosening up is a common thing. What I plan to do to alleviate that problem is bolt the axle up take it out and flex the front end and torque the U-Bolts and the spring perch studs/ bolts while the springs are under full compression. Drive around for a couple days and then go back and do the same thing, repeat.... repeat.

Does anyone know the proper length of bolt to use for those two holes? I know the the studs/ bolts are 5/8-11. If any has a CAT or Ferry Cap P/N that would be even better.

Recent order placed with DIY4X:

14BFF Flat Diff Cover
14BFF Disc Brake Brackets
14BFF Spring Plates
14BFF Pinion Guard

Going to spray all these items with Ryoken Green, regular primer and then this GCI 30277 Lusterless Desert Sandust paint.

Next order to be placed with DIY4X:

Dana 60 Flat Diff Cover
Dana 60 and 14BFF U-Bolts
14BFF Spring Perches

I want the A-Bomb, but I think that's gonna have to wait.

Another thing, I know that the CUCV 14BFF has to have spring perches and shock tabs removed and relocated.

Does the CUCV Dana 60 need to have anything removed and relocated, IIRC I read somewhere that it's a direct bolt in.

Also, what should I do about my master cylinder and proportioning valves? P/N''s if you have them.

These axles are not going under my truck for at least 3 months. Just gonna work on them and build them up little by little as funds allow.

Also, need recommendations for Drive-shafts... manufacturer, CV, slip yoke etc.? I would like to run 1410 all around without conversion U-Joints.

Looking for any and all recommendations, advice, P/N's, problems to expect... anything that's relevant to this specific axle swap.
 
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Not yet.

I'm going to get a crossover steering kit before the axles are installed.

I already have the ORD steering box brace, thinking about buying the weld in frame repair kit too.

I only plan on running 37x12.5 tires. Truck currently has approximately 4" of lift, no fender trimming.
 
Also, I'm thinking about a Spartan Locker for the Dana 60... are these any good. Watched an install video on Youtube and it looked very simple.
 
I want 1410's all around, so either new driveshafts or cut the yokes off the old drive shafts and weld on 1410 yokes.
 
The front 60 is a direct bolt in... like you say the rear will need to have the perches and shock mounts moved.
 
I installed a Spartan locker in my d60 earlier in the year. Really easy to install. Only hard part was removing the roll pin (little pin the keeps the cross pin in place). But with the proper size punch, comes out easy. Been on a couple runs with spartan and love it. Never really hear any clicking and engaged like it should be. Plus the price makes it nice. I think I installed mine in about an hour by myself.

With a locker front and 37's, you thought about hydro assist? If so, would you buy a kit like PSC, or would you piece it together yourself? If you piece it together yourself, might want to look at adding the hydro assist option to your DIY4x front cover before ordering it. That's what I have on my cover. You do need to know your ram size first before ordering it though. Cause most all rams have different end sizes.
 
1410 will need new yoke on the D60. I'm unclear on whether the 1350 and 1410 will fit in the same yoke. If not, new yoke on 14 bolt too. Also, 1410 may require crossmember mods for from driveshaft. I know I'll be doing that for my 1350 conversion up front.
 
1350 and 1410 do not use the same yoke. They use the same dia cups but the 1410 cross is wider both ways.
 
Kay86K5 - Thanks for the info on the Spartan Locker, I've heard about them before, just never really investigated until recently. THe install looked very easy and I think it might be just what I'm looking for. Is a Detroit just as easy to install? Can you install a detroit with out pulling the ring and pinion out?


Mastiff - I figured everything will need new yokes, I plan on picking up an NP205 here soon and I'll have to switch the yokes out on that too. What were your plans for modifying the cross member?


nvrenuf - Thanks for confirming.
 
Detroit is a whole new carrier that you have to bolt your ring gear to. So yes you do have to pull the carrier, install the detroit, and reinstall into the housing (and re-check gear pattern's, ect, ect). That's why I went with the spartan. From everything I have read (about the d60 product) everyone said they loved it and haven't had any problems with it. For the $, and ease of install, decided to give it a try.
 
Figured so. Well thanks again for the info on the Spartan, I see one in my near future... just gotta pick these axles up.
 
Got my DIY4X stuff today. These things are pure beef man. I wiped/ blew all of the little foam particles off of each piece. Going to wipe down with lacquer thinner in a few hours, spray some Ryoken Green and then lay down some primer. Still haven't got my paint from GCI, so they'll all be primer grey for a little while.

20140605_151739_zps3d761540.jpg


20140605_151712_zps8872cce8.jpg
 
I'll be ordering some DIY stuff soon too. Was going to go with the ridged diff covers for more protection. I'm running 35's, so I can expect to hit more rocks. Looking at sliders too.

On the crossmember, I'm getting another factory style one and I plan to cut it down to clear the ujoint and weld new metal to reinforce. I'm guessing it needs maybe 1/2" more to clear.

What is this Ryoken green? I figured it was just green primer in his threads...
 
I'm very pleased with the items that I received. I didn't get the Razor Back diff cover because I will most likely never see rocks... unless I move again. The OHV trails out here are dirt, lots of mud too!

Gotcha, I didn't know that the crossmember had to be modified to clear the U-Joint.

On CK5 it's referred to Ryoken Green, it's Zinc Chromate Primer. The popular rattle can stuff is the Moeller Zinc Chromate Green. It's supposed to be the best rust preventative to lay down on bare steel... I think aluminum too.
 
handloader90 said:
On CK5 it's referred to Ryoken Green, it's Zinc Chromate Primer. The popular rattle can stuff is the Moeller Zinc Chromate Green. It's supposed to be the best rust preventative to lay down on bare steel... I think aluminum too.
Click to expand...

Interesting. I remember zinc chromate from painting model WW2 airplanes when I was a kid. The Moeller site claims the regular green is for aluminum and to use cold galvanizing zinc for steel ... ?
 
I saw that too. It was recommended to me to stick with the Zinc Chromate, so that's what I ordered.
 
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