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cucv axles or just buy a 60

Smokinthehippies

Smokinthehippies

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so my K5 has a 10b & 14b currently. its open x open with 3.73s.

so i'm obviously looking for lower gear ratio and lockers. and a 60 front.
what i was planning on doing was just grabbing a set of the CUCV axles from somewhere, taht would get me the 60 front, a rear detroit and a better 4.56 ratio.

but then i'd have to remove my current 14b and change the spring setup on the new 14b to swap it in. plus by then i'll have disk brake setup on my current 14b which i'd have to swap over.

that got me thinking i'd maybe be better off, just having my current 14bolt regeared and rebuilt, and build this one up the way i want it while i'm shopping for a single dana 60. what would the brotherhood advise?

based on pricing i've seen i can get a set of cucv's for about 1400-1800 plus shipping depending.

or can pay about 1k-1200 for a 60 alone. then pay for all the gearing and lockers on top of that.

where is my cashola and time better spent?
 
Given the choice, I rather swap over brakes and do new spring pads and shock tabs than buy new gears and set them up.

Oh, and I bought a whole M1008 for $1200.
 
Smokinthehippies said:
dont suppose you'd want to sell the axles and the hydraboost would ya?
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lol, by the time I parted out and scrapped that truck and my half ton stuff, I came out ahead $300:D

The wife was pissed about the yard gnome (as GotLabs called it) being there for a couple of months though.
 
fyi if a deal grab the whole 14ff from a cucv .

14ff are super easy to swap gears on with basic tools .

you can just swap the gears from the cucv axle to your current 14ff and it will be much faster than all the work you think you need.

basicly pull axle shafts. drop the cover. pull the whole chunk and pinion support . then swap it in check the pattern and be done.
 
lol.except i tried doing that this past weekend to have it welded up, and after pulling it i couldnt get it to pop out.
 
well either way works as long as you are not in a hurry and pay a premium for either option.
Make sure first what ratio you would like to end up with.
I know some guys get the CUCV axles and then regear them to 5.13 so they just spent some extra money to get the 4.56 gears and redid spring perches only to go back and regear.
You could easily do the same with your 3.73 geared as long as you can get the locker you want.
 
imiceman44 said:
well either way works as long as you are not in a hurry and pay a premium for either option.
Make sure first what ratio you would like to end up with.
I know some guys get the CUCV axles and then regear them to 5.13 so they just spent some extra money to get the 4.56 gears and redid spring perches only to go back and regear.
You could easily do the same with your 3.73 geared as long as you can get the locker you want.
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well i'd like to end up either at 4.56 or 4.88. so thats one of thereasons the cucv soundedl ike a such a good deal.
if i rebuilt mine i'd probably go 4.88 and spool. this truck is wheeler only so i'm not worried about having LS/detroit over spool.
i guess the biggest push for this is i can start ahving the 14 bolt rebuilt and get it done and under truck while i shop for the 60, i'll just be really careful or not wheel while my front axle is so far from the rear axle ratio.
 
Smokinthehippies said:
well i'd like to end up either at 4.56 or 4.88. so thats one of thereasons the cucv soundedl ike a such a good deal.
if i rebuilt mine i'd probably go 4.88 and spool. this truck is wheeler only so i'm not worried about having LS/detroit over spool.
i guess the biggest push for this is i can start ahving the 14 bolt rebuilt and get it done and under truck while i shop for the 60, i'll just be really careful or not wheel while my front axle is so far from the rear axle ratio.
Click to expand...
In that case I would do the rear and try and find a cheap 60 that needs work since you will need to regear it to 4.88
That is my opinion.
 
For the rear axle it really depends on what gears you want. If 4.56 is the best choice for you then the CUCV would likely be the best deal. The Detroit, ring and pinion, and partial or full rebuild kit are probably going to be $600-$800 just for parts. If you go CUCV than just wait on the disc brake swap for the new axle.

Of course since you mention a rear spool I have to throw in the option of just welding the existing 14FF. If you or a friend have a welder it's basically free, and if done at least halfway correctly they are reliable.
 
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