I need to order a new front driveshaft. I've got a Dana 60 from a CUCV and it's the same shaft as was used with my 10-bolt. Can anyone confirm that this would be a 1310 joint on the axle side?
CK5
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CUCV Dana 60 = 1310?
- Thread starter Mastiff
- Start date
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Thats a not 1310. GM has their own U joint in the 1/2ton app. Give me a second...
Stomis
Professional Amateur
GM 3R. But you should seriously remove one and measure it to be sure...
black dawg
1/2 ton status
3r joints in the cv, but 1310 at the pinion yoke
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Theres a reason I always throw everything out and build for continuity. Thats just dumb... 1350 across the board. Easy as pie.
should be a 1310, same size as 1/2 & 3/4 tons. The front swaps right in. It's the rear that will need a conversion joint to 1350.
Can't remember what the CV is. Swapped all that stuff out pretty quick on mine.
Can't remember what the CV is. Swapped all that stuff out pretty quick on mine.
Thanks guys. I thought it was 3R CV and 1310 at yoke, wanted to make sure.
Upgrade to 1350 would be nice, but it can't go as steep, and there's clearance issues at the crossmember (I have another thread on this).
Upgrade to 1350 would be nice, but it can't go as steep, and there's clearance issues at the crossmember (I have another thread on this).
All GM trucks of these era's use a 1310 on the front differential pinion.
go check your working and max angles.
. Thats just dumb... 1350 across the board. Easy as pie.
this 1350 blanket use would be hard to do with the low max angle . the big upgrade for better strength is the 1410 swap .
Stomis
Professional Amateur
This is true. All of my trucks have been pretty low. I know the 1410 gives you the bigger cross more max angle and the same size cap.
Yeah, I'm leery of 1350 due to angle limitations. I figure I'm more likely to snap something from angles than from brute torque. Would it be crazy to have 3R at the case and 1410 at the pinion?
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Its kind of just a matter of you might as well just go all the way at that point. Id have to ask my buddy but his 1410 CV front shaft wasnt all that expensive in the realm of having a new shaft made anyway.
I've been emailing Tom Wood about this and he tells me that 1310 CV can go steepest, at 35 degrees. I thought 3R was good for angles, but he says it's the worst (3R = 25, 1350 = 30, 1310 = 35). He also says he wouldn't bother going to a different joint at the pinion.
I'm tempted to go 1310 on the theory that binding is a more likely killer than normal strain. Also, I know a 1350 will require crossmember mods to fit. I'm not sure how 1310 CV compares to 3R size wise.
I'm tempted to go 1310 on the theory that binding is a more likely killer than normal strain. Also, I know a 1350 will require crossmember mods to fit. I'm not sure how 1310 CV compares to 3R size wise.
If your t-case isn't clocked, I'm sure you'll be fine with 1350 all around. Not sure about the crossmember but I'm running 1350s and a clocked case, so you know my angles are worse than yours.
Do you have any measurements? how much lift?
unfortunately my blazer is stored elsewhere while I work on another project
My blazer has a 4" TC lift with zero rates. The axle is pushed forward 1.5" which helps with DS angles etc, but isn't necessary for you. My T-case output is far above the bottom of my frame. To make things worse, when you clock a T-case, not only does the output get higher and farther from the pinion but it also rotates upward some too.
So, I have a higher lift than you, T-case output is ~5" higher than yours, and it's rotated up slightly. The only thing I have going for me is the front axle moved forward, slightly.
This is the maximum I've ever had the front flexed (Moab had it twisted more, but the rear doesn't mater) The TomWoods 1350 DS doesn't bind and I have yet to find evidence that it has. It is, however, very close. If your front spring flex a lot more than my own, consider a limit strap if the DS does bind.
My blazer has a 4" TC lift with zero rates. The axle is pushed forward 1.5" which helps with DS angles etc, but isn't necessary for you. My T-case output is far above the bottom of my frame. To make things worse, when you clock a T-case, not only does the output get higher and farther from the pinion but it also rotates upward some too.
So, I have a higher lift than you, T-case output is ~5" higher than yours, and it's rotated up slightly. The only thing I have going for me is the front axle moved forward, slightly.
This is the maximum I've ever had the front flexed (Moab had it twisted more, but the rear doesn't mater) The TomWoods 1350 DS doesn't bind and I have yet to find evidence that it has. It is, however, very close. If your front spring flex a lot more than my own, consider a limit strap if the DS does bind.
Also, consider what you really plan to do with the truck. Are you going to do this ^^^ a lot or hit BB15? If it's only mild wheeling, the 1310 set up would be fine. Also, are you locked in front? Chromoly shafts,locking hubs, and U-joints? I am, so a 1310 U-joint DS would end up being my weak link. Hell, my 1350 DS is still probably my weak link.
If you drive smart and lay off the skinny pedal, you should be fine. When you start to ask a lot from your parts (like bouncing at Moab with 100% traction) is when you'll test things.
If you drive smart and lay off the skinny pedal, you should be fine. When you start to ask a lot from your parts (like bouncing at Moab with 100% traction) is when you'll test things.
Thanks. Flexing isn't necessarily rough on the driveshaft if one side is going up and the other down. My main concern is if the weight comes off the whole front end and it all drops out, how low will the entire axle go and what will the angles be? Don't get me wrong, I'm not planning to jump my truck, but if you get aggressive for a second, I could see the weight coming off, then if you're on the gas...
