CK5
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cucv or conversion
- Thread starter medicdave
- Start date
AC is nice, although here you can live without it just fine. PM MaxPF for AC tech. I saw and old thread of his resurface a couple of days ago that had a vast amount of AC tech info in it. MaxPF is one of the Arizona guys, so it'd be right to expect he knows his AC stuff about as good as anyone in the country.
My AC tech stops at "is the belt still on?"
Rene
My AC tech stops at "is the belt still on?"
Rene
MaxPF
1/2 ton status
GM AC systems in general are pretty simple. The main thing is age, as in "everything deteriorates with". If it has the original (or at least 5+ year old) compressor odds are it has leaks. Ditto for the o-rings. Old hoses are questionable as well, and absolutely must be replaced for an R134a conversion.
I will repeat my opinions about compressors: A6's (about 10-12 inches long, 5inches in diabeter, with 4 nuts holding each end cap in place) are good reliable compressors (and an internal oil sump and internal oil pump makes them excellent for onboard air use if set up properly). They are heavy and use a lot of HP, but they are reliable. Only remans are available, and they are hit-or-miss with exception of the APCO units (I don't know if they are still in business though) which are usually solid. Due to the simple bracketry anyone with some fabbing skill can replace them with a Sanden, Seltec, or Zexel 8-eared universal replacement compressor. R4's (about 4" long and 8" in diabeter, basically sorta pancake looking) are POS's, They cool well, but they use a lot of power. Also, since the body seals are on the discharge side they are exposed to higher pressure and high temps from the discharge gas which causes them to go bad and leak after a relatively short time. Finally, they have no sump or oil reservoir whatsoever, instead relying on the circulating refrigerant to carry the oil and keep them lubed. A low flow condition due to low refrigerant, orifice tube blockage, or chronic short-cycling will starve them of oil and they will die. When they die, it is usually messy, contaminationg the entire HP side (especially the condenser) with metal particles and sludge composed of metal, plastic (from the piston rings) and oil. The condenser even collects this stuff in normal service, and flushing it is a hit-or-miss deal. As a rule it is best to replace it when replacing a compressor. I would NEVER replace an R4 with another R4. A Sanden, Seltec, or Zexel 8-eared universal compressor will fit with some spacers. You will need new hoses, but they will be needed in an old truck anyway.
Always replace the orifice tube and accumulator as well. Honestly, in an old truck you should replace EVERYTHING except the evaporator. If you are going to convert to R134a, make sure you get a good parallel flow or serpentine style condenser (the parallel flows are best). Stock-type units for R12 aren't efficient enough for 134a. Use PAG oil in an R134a system rather than ester oil - it lubes better, and no compresser manufacturer (to my knowledge) will warranty a compressor if ester oil is used. Don't try to cheap out by using old junk - it will bite you in the butt and end up costing you more in the long run. Do it right and you only have to do it once.
HEre's my thread on my R4 to Zexel conversion. I replaced everything except the evap. That was almost a year and a half ago, and I have had zero problems. Note that in the wintertime I run it for at least 10 minures once a week to keep the front seal lubed. If you don't it can seep refrigerant. I still have the original charge I put in when I did the conversion.
Good auto AC info can be had over at http://www.aircondition.com. Good luck
I will repeat my opinions about compressors: A6's (about 10-12 inches long, 5inches in diabeter, with 4 nuts holding each end cap in place) are good reliable compressors (and an internal oil sump and internal oil pump makes them excellent for onboard air use if set up properly). They are heavy and use a lot of HP, but they are reliable. Only remans are available, and they are hit-or-miss with exception of the APCO units (I don't know if they are still in business though) which are usually solid. Due to the simple bracketry anyone with some fabbing skill can replace them with a Sanden, Seltec, or Zexel 8-eared universal replacement compressor. R4's (about 4" long and 8" in diabeter, basically sorta pancake looking) are POS's, They cool well, but they use a lot of power. Also, since the body seals are on the discharge side they are exposed to higher pressure and high temps from the discharge gas which causes them to go bad and leak after a relatively short time. Finally, they have no sump or oil reservoir whatsoever, instead relying on the circulating refrigerant to carry the oil and keep them lubed. A low flow condition due to low refrigerant, orifice tube blockage, or chronic short-cycling will starve them of oil and they will die. When they die, it is usually messy, contaminationg the entire HP side (especially the condenser) with metal particles and sludge composed of metal, plastic (from the piston rings) and oil. The condenser even collects this stuff in normal service, and flushing it is a hit-or-miss deal. As a rule it is best to replace it when replacing a compressor. I would NEVER replace an R4 with another R4. A Sanden, Seltec, or Zexel 8-eared universal compressor will fit with some spacers. You will need new hoses, but they will be needed in an old truck anyway.
Always replace the orifice tube and accumulator as well. Honestly, in an old truck you should replace EVERYTHING except the evaporator. If you are going to convert to R134a, make sure you get a good parallel flow or serpentine style condenser (the parallel flows are best). Stock-type units for R12 aren't efficient enough for 134a. Use PAG oil in an R134a system rather than ester oil - it lubes better, and no compresser manufacturer (to my knowledge) will warranty a compressor if ester oil is used. Don't try to cheap out by using old junk - it will bite you in the butt and end up costing you more in the long run. Do it right and you only have to do it once.
HEre's my thread on my R4 to Zexel conversion. I replaced everything except the evap. That was almost a year and a half ago, and I have had zero problems. Note that in the wintertime I run it for at least 10 minures once a week to keep the front seal lubed. If you don't it can seep refrigerant. I still have the original charge I put in when I did the conversion.
Good auto AC info can be had over at http://www.aircondition.com. Good luck
Just for general knowledge there is a company that makes an AC conversion kit for the CUCV trucks. A bit more complicated due to the second alternator and such and not cheap but it is available. I can dig up the link over on Steel Soldiers if you end up with a CUCV.
Post some pic's if you can...
Rene
Rene
