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CUCV Purchase?

rusty79beast

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I think I found my next possible buy. 1984 M1009 CUCV Blazer with 99,000 miles or so on it. It has 36" military Goodyear tires on it and is in good shape. My question is what do these normally go for? Would you pay the same for a civilian version in the same shape? I'm new to the diesel thing, but I think it would be a good experience. Anybody have thoughts about starting in cold weather? It will be used in temps ranging from the coldest of -20 degrees up to the 90's in the summer. One thing I didn't like were the idiot lights for oil pressure and temperature. Can you just replace the lights with gauges or are they completely different? He's asking $6000 for it, and it's pretty much stock CUCV except for the larger tires (aka 10 bolts, 6.2L, TH400, etc) Any opinions for price, etc. please feel free to let me know.

Thanks

This might help...pictures can be found here! http://community.webshots.com/myphotos?action=viewAllPhotos&albumID=552188837
 
1BadK-30 said:
thats the cleanest lookin cucv iv seen :bow:

sry im no help


just what i was going to say.

as in buying any used vehicle, ist what you are willing to pay for it.

as clean as that is, id offer 5000 and meet at 5500
 
Price they sell for on ebay

Here is what they have sold for on eBay in the last few months.

1985 72,870 miles very good condition no rust $2,500 in OK. July 9th

1986 55,653 miles perfect with radios and light bar $3,025 in NJ June 26 reserve not met

1984 77,000 miles rust starting on rockers $3,025 in In June 11

1986 89,286 miles with plow rust bubbles over wheel $2,500 in MD June 7

1986 85,456 miles no rust very good cond $3,950 in KS June 5

1985 8,370 miles certified with a/c like new (car dealer selling) $6,900 in NJ May 29

1985 64,937 miles rust in rockers and floor pan $2,700 in NC May 29

1986 78,000 miles small spot of rust on tail gate $4,350 in GA May 7

I also have been tracking 1987 Blazers too. I hope this helps ya. Also I think I have seen that picture some place before. (I rember the trees) See it first before you send money. As to the gauges search the forum as I know I have answered that question three times beside doing my own. No not easy switch. just buy gauges.
 
I might be wrong but shouldn't it have 14/44 or 14/60 instead of 10b's?

The 6.2/th400 he said is what I thought but I thought that the axles were beefier too.

-Avery
 
Avery4jc said:
I might be wrong but shouldn't it have 14/44 or 14/60 instead of 10b's?

The 6.2/th400 he said is what I thought but I thought that the axles were beefier too.

-Avery
CUCV *trucks* (M1008, 1010, 1028, and whatever the cab-chassis one was) are D60/14, 4.56:1 gears and locker one or both ends.

CUCV *Blazers* (M1009) are 10-bolt (rear with govlock) and 3.08:1.

One does not buy an '09 for the axles.

I paid $2300ish for mine, only rust was a bubble on one edge of the windshield, with crappy brakes, and painted black and white for the local PD. I've dumped maybe another grand, grand and a half into paint, new floor mat, brakes, and little stuff, and she's puuuurty, if slow :)

None have AC (save the M1010 ambulance) and you'd need to redo the glow plugs to get it to start in -20 ... but that's true of any GM diesel =))

I think $6K is crazy, unless all the mechanicals are brand new ... but I'm not in rust country, so what do I know. It is clean by the looks, but that's still a chunk of change.

And those don't look any bigger than my 33"s do, but what do I know.

-- A
 
dremu said:
CUCV *trucks* (M1008, 1010, 1028, and whatever the cab-chassis one was) are D60/14, 4.56:1 gears and locker one or both ends.

CUCV *Blazers* (M1009) are 10-bolt (rear with govlock) and 3.08:1.

One does not buy an '09 for the axles.

I paid $2300ish for mine, only rust was a bubble on one edge of the windshield, with crappy brakes, and painted black and white for the local PD. I've dumped maybe another grand, grand and a half into paint, new floor mat, brakes, and little stuff, and she's puuuurty, if slow :)

None have AC (save the M1010 ambulance) and you'd need to redo the glow plugs to get it to start in -20 ... but that's true of any GM diesel =))

I think $6K is crazy, unless all the mechanicals are brand new ... but I'm not in rust country, so what do I know. It is clean by the looks, but that's still a chunk of change.

And those don't look any bigger than my 33"s do, but what do I know.

-- A

Oh, ok. Thanks for the little history lesson.

-Avery
 
I was thinking 6K was a little high. Anyone else have any experiences with a CUCV and there corresponding condition/cost? :confused: I'm really interested in the idoit light gauge conversion to regular gauges. Is it just a "plug in" type thing or would I have to change a bunch of things? Thanks guys, you rock!:bow:
 
I bought mine for $1200 but the engine had a blown head gasket. It wasnt as clean as that but it didnt have any rust. I would say that its a little high and probably worth more around $4000. You could find a clean gas engine non CUCV blazer for cheaper.
 
rusty79beast said:
I was thinking 6K was a little high. Anyone else have any experiences with a CUCV and there corresponding condition/cost? :confused: I'm really interested in the idoit light gauge conversion to regular gauges. Is it just a "plug in" type thing or would I have to change a bunch of things? Thanks guys, you rock!:bow:

As I posted above!
As to the gauges search the forum as I know I have answered that question three times beside doing my own. No not easy switch. just buy gauges. You have to trace the wires on gauge cluster and arrange the plug connector to match it. You have to change the sending units on the temp and oil pressure. I would of emailed you but you have choosen not to receive emails and your homepage is down.....

As to finding a CUCV go here http://www.govliquidation.com/ then trucks. They have auctions all over the country you can go look before you bid. The price goes up in the winter time on them and if it says RUNNING hang on! You can email me and I will help you any way I can.
 

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