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Cummins 6bt swap into k35

howdiy

howdiy

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It looks like I have to make my own cummins mounts. I really didn't want to but everything is way over priced for what you get. I'm not sure exactly how I want to make them, I'm thinking about making them fit

I think I'll just do something simple like this
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cummins031.jpg


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I've had a couple different kinds. over priced is certainly just your opinion. it all depends on what you think your time is worth. for a few hundred bucks I couldn't even be bothered to waste hours upon hours of fitting. because you have to make a while new cross member too for '73-'87/91 trucks.

what are you useing for a tranny adapter?
 
I'm going to run a nv4500 and a divorced transfer

I bought a whole 94 donor truck

I'd rather save the money and get injectors or put it towards a turbo. Nothing really caught my eye out of what is available. It does seem like a PITA fitting them up though, considering the fact that the cummins weights 1100 pounds

I think I might beg someone that made the mounts for some dimensions
 
you don't need to spend any money on injectors or a turbo yet. you need to get the timing bumped up to 15 or 16 degrees grind a new fuel plate, push it forward, possibly slide the AFC housing forward. all that is FREE, and gets you into the 350hp area. much more than that you'll need to upgrade your clutch long before anything else. the $100 for a 3K gsk is highly recommended for increased driveablility with the stick and advanced timing.

and you're 100% right. moving a 1100-1250lb engine around at ALL on a regular hoist is not the most fun thing to do. I've moved enough 6B cummins around to tell you that 1st hand. unless you're going to strip the topend and pull the head, to make mockup procedure more managable. then your back to how much is your time worth?


theeeen......... if you're pulling the head. may as well oring and stud it. no sense it putting stock junk back on!

rings
IMG00042-20100426-1825.jpg


3K gsk Vs stock
Governorswap004.jpg


grind yourself a zero plate
Governorswap005.jpg
 
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DEMON44 said:
you don't need to spend any money on injectors or a turbo yet. you need to get the timing bumped up to 15 or 16 degrees grind a new fuel plate, push it forward, possibly slide the AFC housing forward. all that is FREE, and gets you into the 350hp area. much more than that you'll need to upgrade your clutch long before anything else. the $100 for a 3K gsk is highly recommended for increased driveablility with the stick and advanced timing.

and you're 100% right. moving a 1100-1250lb engine around at ALL on a regular hoist is not the most fun thing to do. I've moved enough 6B cummins around to tell you that 1st hand. unless you're going to strip the topend and pull the head, to make mockup procedure more managable. then your back to how much is your time worth?


theeeen......... if you're pulling the head. may as well oring and stud it. no sense it putting stock junk back on!

rings


3K gsk Vs stock


grind yourself a zero plate
Click to expand...

Thanks, supposedly the PO installed a plate, I think he said zero, I'm not sure though. I ordered a 4k kit, but I will just put the 3k springs in. I haven't looked into the timing yet and I'm unsure of what exactly I'm doing when I move the AFC forward at the moment.

If I pull the head off do I need to O-ring it, I've read that if you keep it relatively tame that the stock gasket is fine. I'm really wanting to just get around 20 mpg and have enough power to pull 10-12k.

I've been doing a lot of reading of the past couple days but I'm still not sure about some things.

I also got to thinking I'll just get the avalanche engineering crossmember, It will make things so much easier. Considering the fact that I would feel comfortable putting a cummins on any engine stand I have, or if it would even bolt up. I remember lining up my big block was a big enough PITA, let alone something twice as heavy.
 
no no orings are not neccissary. for sure.

definately get the timing checked and properly set with measureing tools. Do NOT let some hack tell you he can "do it by ear" or any other crap like turning it blindly.

there are pump timing charts for each pump. the timing kit allows you to measure off the top of #1 plunger and distance measured for each pump relates to a number in degrees BTDC.


timingchart.jpg
 
Does the timing change make a big difference? How much would a diesel shop charge?

Also the engine has 308k miles on it. How do you know when it needs a rebuild?
 
howdiy said:
Does the timing change make a big difference? How much would a diesel shop charge?

Also the engine has 308k miles on it. How do you know when it needs a rebuild?
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timing makes a big difference in how the engine operates. as the 6B is static timed. there is no injection advance mechanism at all on a P7100 pump. and very likely it has slipped since new if no ones done it since new or if its been done incorrectly at some point. base timing is around 12*-13* for emissions. the engine is far happier at 15-16 even totally stock. and even higher the more modified it gets. you do have to worry about the HG and cylinder pressures at some point over 16* if you stay under 45 pounds of boost and 16* timing the stock headgasket should be fine. you could run a retorque on the stock bolts for good measure.

when does it need a rebuild? when it starts giving you problems related to low/loss of cylinder compression, barring any catastrophic failures. and I could set it for you for free. but the fuel might not be worth the trip :haha: I really dont know what a shop would charge. $100 maybe, just shooting it out there. get in touch with some cummins guys where you're at. theres got to be someone around that could do it for a bit of cash on the side.
 
I just finished putting a Cummins in my 79 K30. If I were you, I wouldn't be looking at engine mods yet, there is a lot more to the swap you may not anticipate.

Mind you, I will be doing these mods someday, but I spent my time making sure everythin was done right, now I'm enjoying driving the thing
 
1976Blazer76 said:
I just finished putting a Cummins in my 79 K30. If I were you, I wouldn't be looking at engine mods yet, there is a lot more to the swap you may not anticipate.

Mind you, I will be doing these mods someday, but I spent my time making sure everythin was done right, now I'm enjoying driving the thing
Click to expand...

Yeah I'm not going to get crazy with them yet, just the simple mods for now.
 
doing governor springs is 100x easier when the engine is out of the vehicle and on the floor. I'm not whinin about doing it in chassis, but christ if its on the floor do it then. everything else is cake. and essentially free. so why NOT do it now :waytogo:
 
None really, just wanted to check it out. What motor mounts did you use?
 
I made my own using the stock cummins mounts on the engine. I made new frame mounts for the engine mounts to sit in. I decided to use the stock cummins mounts because obviously dodge/cummins used that design for a reason, because it worked.

I'm partial to the idea of using the stock gm mounts, I'm not convinced they're made to handle that kind of weight.

Lastly, when at all possible I make things unboltable. Sure makes things easier in the long run
 
What do you think about running a 24 valve exhaust manifold? I think I'm going to get one and port match it to the square 12 valve ports.

It puts the turbo down where there is much more room

Edit: Ordered one

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