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Cummins Diesel ?
- Thread starter rjkharry
- Start date
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Is it from a square body dodge or a round body? Also I believe the 24v version said it right on the valve cover cover.
I have a 71 blazer that another person did the conversion to a Cummins. It had two batteries in it when I bought it but they were real old. I replaced them with new Interstate batteries. I am not sure if I need to hook the batteries in series to get 24v or parallel to get 12v. I will check to see if it is stamped on the valve cover.
The 12v and 24v in cummins land is referring to valves.
Edit: sorry for the bad info!
Last edited:
black dawg
1/2 ton status
wire the batteries for 12 volts.
My bad!!! sorry about that
12 valves have separate valve covers and 24 valves are a solid valve cover I'm fairly sure
They Do, a 24 has a one piece valve cover and a oil filler through it the front of it. Also a 24v would require all the computers needed to run it, which, if it was swapped into a 3rd gen chevy truck, should be pretty easy to find.
A 12 will have 6 individual valve covers (unless for some reason they kept the Dodge nameplate) And if it is an older engine, it could have the air elbow going over the valve covers.
Also a 12v would have (if it is an older engine) a Bosch VE rotary fuel pump. and if it a newer one it would have the very desirable Bosch P7100 inline fuel pump.
A 24V would almost have a VP44, a horizontal rotary pump.
Now it can always have been changed, but it is unlikely.
A 12 will have 6 individual valve covers (unless for some reason they kept the Dodge nameplate) And if it is an older engine, it could have the air elbow going over the valve covers.
Also a 12v would have (if it is an older engine) a Bosch VE rotary fuel pump. and if it a newer one it would have the very desirable Bosch P7100 inline fuel pump.
A 24V would almost have a VP44, a horizontal rotary pump.
Now it can always have been changed, but it is unlikely.
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
The moniker cummins 12v and 24v means 12 valve and 24 valve........ NOT 12 volt and 24 volt.
Ok thanks for all the help on the 12 valve vs. 24 valve. It is a 12 valve.
Let me explain the main issue I am having that started this post. I had two old batteries in the truck. One tested bad the other good. They were the ones that were in it when I bought the truck 6 months ago. I replaced them with two new Interstate batteries which have always been awesome for me. The truck still seems to start sluggish. I currently have them wired up as a 12 volt system. Meaning they are connected positive to positive. The truck usually starts but just kinda of womp womp vroom
if you know what I mean. What should I check to see if I am getting enough power or cranking amps so to speak? Also yesterday I left the lights on for like 3 min and the batteries were dead and it wouldn't crank. I hooked it up to my small Chevy Colorado and after a few minutes of charging it seemed to crank right up without any womp womp. Could the altenator need to be upsized?
Let me explain the main issue I am having that started this post. I had two old batteries in the truck. One tested bad the other good. They were the ones that were in it when I bought the truck 6 months ago. I replaced them with two new Interstate batteries which have always been awesome for me. The truck still seems to start sluggish. I currently have them wired up as a 12 volt system. Meaning they are connected positive to positive. The truck usually starts but just kinda of womp womp vroom
if you know what I mean. What should I check to see if I am getting enough power or cranking amps so to speak? Also yesterday I left the lights on for like 3 min and the batteries were dead and it wouldn't crank. I hooked it up to my small Chevy Colorado and after a few minutes of charging it seemed to crank right up without any womp womp. Could the altenator need to be upsized?
if more than 1 battery in system like this both must be of same age and size and best if same brand / model . or if not the batterys can fight and kill each other trying to make them selfs equal .
charging voltage when running . if alt not working good or at all the batterys wont charge 100%
condition of all conections and cables. if heavy corrosion and or losse / corroded ends at battery or starter then less amp's is getting to the system . amps is the power behind electricity . you can have 1million volts and still no power if you have no amps.
all the grounds from starter to tranny/engine block - to frame - to battery - body . if not a good ground to all can cause weak power flow . and if aluminium tranny face or starter to cast iron it will corrode and cause low flow of electricity and weak power feeling.
average lead acid battery life span is 5-6 years at least for us north cold / salt belt vehicle drivers. some get more and less.
hope some of this helps . if not we will keep helping .
charging voltage when running . if alt not working good or at all the batterys wont charge 100%
condition of all conections and cables. if heavy corrosion and or losse / corroded ends at battery or starter then less amp's is getting to the system . amps is the power behind electricity . you can have 1million volts and still no power if you have no amps.
all the grounds from starter to tranny/engine block - to frame - to battery - body . if not a good ground to all can cause weak power flow . and if aluminium tranny face or starter to cast iron it will corrode and cause low flow of electricity and weak power feeling.
average lead acid battery life span is 5-6 years at least for us north cold / salt belt vehicle drivers. some get more and less.
hope some of this helps . if not we will keep helping .
Thanks. Both batteries are brand new and the same brand and size. There is a good chance it is the cables. I am probably going to start by replacing them. I feel like the altenator is working fine or I wouldn't be charging and the battery would always be dead. But that isn't the case. It usually starts everytime. I will then work
"charging voltage when running . if alt not working good or at all the batterys wont charge 100% "
What do you mean by this? How do I check and what should it be?
"charging voltage when running . if alt not working good or at all the batterys wont charge 100% "
What do you mean by this? How do I check and what should it be?
mos alts do 13.8-14.2 or so voltage range when working. and there is a amp rating specific to the alternator it should be putting out at full load/rpm range. you would need to take it or just the alt and have this test done to find out the amps its putting out. most places will do in or out of vehicle test for free.
Maybe one of the cables is running though a spot that puts wear on it, and has rubbed the insulation off, and it is grounding out on whatever it is touching.
An easy way to see if it is between the batteries, is just to pull out the first battery, and see it if starts easier.
If not, (if it is still the cables) you will just have to trace them their whole length.
And check all the connections as well, that could cause the same thing.
An easy way to see if it is between the batteries, is just to pull out the first battery, and see it if starts easier.
If not, (if it is still the cables) you will just have to trace them their whole length.
And check all the connections as well, that could cause the same thing.
I am still having trouble figuring out this charging problem. The Alternator is good. I had it checked. The batteries are brand new. The alternator is off an 80's model blazer. any clue if I have it wired right. I have attached pictures. It doesn't charge at all now.
Finally got her fixed. Turns out it was the battery cables. We tested the voltage at the starter and it read good that is why we went another direction. But once I replaced the terminals and striped the wire back it was all good. On another night I am going to replace all the cables but I am just happy to have it running for tonight.
