Custom Driveshaft Suggestions

[3/4 Ton Blazer]

I have an '89 K5 with a 4" lift on 35's. I need a rear drivshaft as the one that is in it had a u-joint installation that I can only assume was done with a large hammer by the previous owner. I have decided to just get a proper driveshaft made instead of installing another stocker. I want something stupid strong. I am thinking either 1410 U-joints at bothends, or a 1350 Cv and a 1410 at the rear. My lift is minimal, but I want this thing to be bullet proof! Does a 1410 CV even exist? Thought I would see what you guys are running and go from there. I don't ever intend on running a bigger lift than a 4". And this is my daily driver, so I want something that is smooth. I had considered a slip yolk eliminator as well, but I can see that doubling the cost of this project.

 

[chiefheaphy]

Duece and .5 driveshafts have 1410's you could get one of them shortened/lengthened and they are super strong.

 

[southernspeed]

Or have a chat with Jesse at HAD

 

[imiceman44]

I have an '89 K5 with a 4" lift on 35's. I need a rear drivshaft as the one that is in it had a u-joint installation that I can only assume was done with a large hammer by the previous owner. I have decided to just get a proper driveshaft made instead of installing another stocker. I want something stupid strong. I am thinking either 1410 U-joints at bothends, or a 1350 Cv and a 1410 at the rear. My lift is minimal, but I want this thing to be bullet proof! Does a 1410 CV even exist? Thought I would see what you guys are running and go from there. I don't ever intend on running a bigger lift than a 4". And this is my daily driver, so I want something that is smooth. I had considered a slip yolk eliminator as well, but I can see that doubling the cost of this project.

With your size axles and tires I wouldn't bother with anything bigger than 1350, that would keep the cost down, and to put a CV would make it smooth but you need to point your rear end towards the tcase if you wanna put a CV.
With a 4" lift you are at the limit where you could be fine without a CV but having it will make it easier on everything.
So like I said keep it 1350 since you already should have a 1350 yoke on the axle and the CV would be 1350.
I would spend the little more to so a SYE the 241 is easy plenty of aftermarket SYE kits and I am working on a way to do it myself.
You can also rob parts from the rear of a Dodge 241 and do it with stock parts.
Last time I got mine from PNP for $100.
That would reduce the cost of your CV shaft too since they will not need to include a 1350 slip yoke.