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Custom rear side panels -DONE

B_to_C

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Well got these babies finished finally (with much help from MrK5 (Scott) the "first aid kit" door is lockable and my subwoofer amp is bolted to the backside. The speaker terminals make it super easy to get my subwoofer in and out in a matter of seconds. the other panel's door is just for storage. I have 6x8's up just behind the front seat belt mounting holes. and an amp driving those bolted to the bedisde behind the panel on the drivers side. All I can say is WHA? -because I can't here you! -These kick A$$

panel1.jpg


panel2.jpg
 
side panels

what did you make them out of? I was thinking of doing something very similar to that.
 
You did a very nice job on it. Looks very clean. Where did you actually put the amp??? Are you using any fans to cool the amp while it is in there? Also, did you make the first aid box, or did you buy it and just install it?
 
The material we used is called Alumalite. It is 1/4" thick, it has a currogated plastic core with .030 thick aluminum laminated to both sides and comes in prefinished colors.

The first aid box is just a door made with the same material in white. The red cross is actually the bottom side of the amp. So when you flip the door open, there's the amp.
 
Very nice work. Where can someone buy this stuff at, and what is the cost of it???
 
trikstark5 said:
Very nice work. Where can someone buy this stuff at, and what is the cost of it???
yeah - what he said.
 
It is something we use to make signs, so we get it from a vendor. It is not cheap, but at least I pay wholesale. The amount of material we used to make B_to_C's cost $75.

You could try calling a sign shop to see what they would charge you. It all depends on how much they mark it up. It comes in the basic colors. You can cut it with a jig saw or circular saw.

It's call Alumalite and we used 6mm (1/4"). Here's a link to the site for the company that makes it:
Click-->Alumalite
 
How did you go about mocking it up? Did you use the typical cardboard template or where the old panels in good enough condition to use as a template?
 
I used the old ones as a template and then scanned the pattern into my computer. Then we were able to cut them on the CNC router.

The only thing that didn't work out were the screw holes. They didn't quite line up on all of them. Some of them did.
 
Thanks for the info. I am not sure what material I want to use for mine yet. Would like to use diamond plate but that is going to be too bright to use.
 
Diamond plating wouldn't be too bright. no light will reflect from it in your direction. I bought a boat load of aluminum diamond plating that is sitting in my garage for that specific purpose - I can not figure out the best way to cut it though. My jig saw would take about 60hours, I don't have a plasma cutter or a bandsaw either. Any ideas? I have the templates cut from plywood so it's just a trace and cut type deal at this point. Thanks
(sorry for the hijack - just realized!)
 
Plasma cutter would be very clean and quick. I am stuck in the same boat as you trying to figure out how to cut it. Think I am gonna try the jig saw and see how that works for me.
 
hmmm. how strong is this stuff? I was looking something light weight to floor the inside of my boat. seems like it would be perfect if a rough surface was added to it so I wouldn't slip on it when fishing.
 
nc87k5 said:
hmmm. how strong is this stuff? I was looking something light weight to floor the inside of my boat. seems like it would be perfect if a rough surface was added to it so I wouldn't slip on it when fishing.

if your boat is glass you'd be better off looking at marine specifac composites.. there are many different styles available similar to how this alumilite is made.. honeycombed lightweight cores with glass on either side, solids, etc...

if your boat is aluminum, nevermind.... ;)
 
I did mine in diamond plate.. I used a jigsaw and it wasn't bad at all little hard to cut the long strait lines. I used the factory edge for the top as that being straight is more critical.
 
it's aluminum :grin: . I may just check out a local sign shop and see what they can do for me. glad I opened this post
 
I don't know if the 1/4" is rigid enough. They make it in 10mm also (1/2"), and that may work better. Still lighter than a 1/2" thick piece of plywood.
 
how much does that stuff flex? If you got it in 10mm would it handle the stress of a dual 12" box without ripping apart? I always build out of 5/8" MDF or Fiberglass but that stuff would be great for a flat surface to clean up the front of some boxes without using MDF
 
Stratispho said:
how much does that stuff flex? If you got it in 10mm would it handle the stress of a dual 12" box without ripping apart? I always build out of 5/8" MDF or Fiberglass but that stuff would be great for a flat surface to clean up the front of some boxes without using MDF


I would suggest using it as a cover piece. But acoustically metal is a no no and it will flex without the support of the MDF. I would not consider making a dual enclosure out of anything less then 3/4 MDF and I usually use 1" plus supports.
 
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