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cutout switch for non EFI guys

B

Blazer_Boy

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I've heard some cool ideas for a cut out switch to the electric fuel pump as anti-theft feature. I have an '82 and don't have that option. Is there any where I could put in a switch so the motor will crank but not run, fool the thieves.

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well id just run an alarm myself,but you could just mount a switch somwhere in the cab to break the connection to the coil.if ya put it w/ a bunch of other switches(like aux lights)it would be harder to figure out.if you have an elec pump put a switch on it.i lost my keys once in my driveway(still havent found em)and what i did was about 1/4 mile from home id pull the wire for my fuel pump so if they wanted it they could take it,it just wouldnt go far and quit in the road.thatd make it easy to find,draw alot of attention to it,and the added bonus is if they get out of your yard its not attempted auto theft,it is.much heavier penalty in court.hehehe!

PURE INSANITY
86 blazer silverado 400 horse 350 w/vortec heads 38 x15.5 swampers (40 hawgs next)10 bolts(blah)w/4:88s coming soon,14 bolt.
 
I have an 87 that doesn't have TBI anymore, I used a oil sending unit from a Vega (spdt) set at about 8psi oil pressure hooked to the fuel pump relay so if you cut the motor / roll it, run out of oil the fuel pump cuts out. I also added a by-pass switch inside so if it sits for a long time you can prime it or use it to pump some fuel to someone thats out (normaly off). It would be easy to add a switch to cut the pump off. I perfer the alarm also. Mine makes lots of noise and sends 12,000 volts to the steering wheel (just kidding).

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I have an anti-theft ignition cutout circut, that is very easy to build and install. basically it just shuts down the age to the coil if not set. The switch can be hidden anywhere. But not wanting to leave a switch, I built a timing circuit, you have to leave the key on for a time period before starting to arm the circuit, otherwise it will never start. Also almost any sequence of events could be used to arm the circuit, something nobody would think of other then just turn the key and go. I will scan it in if you or anyone else wants it.
 
I'd be interested in that Eagle, you can send the info to my email if ya like [email protected]
Or send me a PM, either is good.
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Rene

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<A target="_blank" HREF=http://jules.coloradok5.com>http://jules.coloradok5.com</A>
 
I'd like to see it too Eagle. [email protected]

Murphy's Laws on Life :
"It is a mistake to allow any mechanical object to realize you are in a hurry."
 
I think I'm gonna do it the simpleton's way. I've pouring over the ol' chilton book I got from the Library and it looks like the wire that goes from the key to the distributor is pink. Would putting a toggle in there effectively kill the distributor yet allow the starter and everything else to work?

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put a switch on the wire going from the ignition switch to your distributor. it should be a pink wire ( mine looks light brown) and it runs out of the firewall to the distributor. this will be perfect for you. without that wire the truck will crank but not start.

<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by zachs78k5 on 04/08/01 09:37 PM (server time).</FONT></P>
 
If you ask me, anyone that knows GM vehicles will find the switch. Its probably the same color wire on almost all Gm vehicles from the 70's through the 80's and any half assed thief will know this, and just trace the wire. The time delay things not a bad idea, but again, anything spliced into the ignition wire will be found. If I was a thief, I'd break into it.... Doesn't start? Pop the hood, cut the ignition wire at the coil, run a length from the coil plug on the dist. to the drivers compartment, and cut ignition wire at the bottom of the column. Problem solved. Everything in the ignition wiring has just been bypassed...may sound complicated, but I've heard of thieves getting through 5 armed alarms before, when the car was in someones driveway...if you think an ignition kill switch is gonna slow someone slightly capable down, I think you are mistaken...

Get a column guard. Unless they have hours to work on it, they won't get far. You can start the thing up no problem, but you'll have a hell of a time getting it out of park, and the wheel won't turn. Besides that, its visible, so hopefully they won't even bother breaking into it in the first place.

Dorian
My K5 and Chev/Olds tech/links page: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</A>
 
I now have put a copy of the schematic of the ignition kill switch on a web page, any that want it let me know and I will send the address...
 
i dont mean to be controversial or something here, but i am under the impression that most theives hotwire a car from inside, the same place they disable the steering lock. if the thing doesnt start most people would assume it has a dead battery or something and would just steal your stereo and leave. very few thieves have the kahunas to open your hood and run a wire, especially if you are protecting against ghetto theives. if someone knows to run a wire in the hood, they probably wont be steeling your blazer, they will hit a newer more expensive car.
 
No, the problem is there is no point in hotwiring most any GM vehicles (cars or trucks) from about 1973-mid 1990's. All you need is to get in the vehicle and have a hammer. You break the column on the opposite side of the key, and start the truck. Gm REALLY screwed up, and made these plastic. I've said it before, go into a wrecking yard and start looking at cars and trucks in that area of the column...chances are some will have them broken there. Theft recovery vehicles, you can be assured.

Once thats broken, its JUST like having a key...from here you no longer have to worry about a locked steering wheel, and you drive away.

My point is that A) if there is no visible deterrent, chances are your window is already broken or the door is screwed, and B) the ignition circuit is extremely easy to bypass, and if someone wants your vehicle (they already broke into it, think they want it?) they will get it.

A column guard (NOT the riveted ones, those don't do anything) will be a visible deterrent, as well as making it virtually impossible, short of disassembling the steering column, to turn, or take the vehicle out of park, EVEN if its hotwired.

Not only that, most people that mess with vehicle electrics do NOT do so correctly, and use butt connectors, etc, to make wire splices, when they should be soldered. Especially on things like the ignition wire.

Dorian
My K5 and Chev/Olds tech/links page: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</A>
 
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