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CV driveshaft question

Phil513

Phil513

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Since I'll be welding new spring perches on the 14 bolt, should I plan on going to a slip yoke CV driveshaft? Or just keep the 14 bolt straight and use the driveshaft I have. I don't want all the "MAW's" to kill me, just wondering if it's worth it. I don't want to do the whole short output SYE at this time.

I have a 4" lift with blocks in the back right now. No vibrations at all (well some minor ones when coasting, but no big deal). Will be going to a shackle flip.

Thanks!
 
Another advantage of the cv is the ability to get your pinion rotated up and avoid potential damage. I would agree with @blazinzuk that you should be ok.
 
skunked said:
Another advantage of the cv is the ability to get your pinion rotated up and avoid potential damage. I would agree with @blazinzuk that you should be ok.
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Honestly I just never see me wheeling this rig very hard. Mostly around here I'm just doing desert 2 tracks, which has been fine with my open 10 bolts. I'll get a little more serious than that, but this truck won't ever be hardcore.

I'm mostly doing this because it makes more sense to put in a 4:10 14 bolt than to regear my 10 bolt.
 
Not to throw a monkey wrench into this, but the longer nose on the 14b will make the angles more severe, possibly causing some vibrations. Also double check that you have proper clearance when you spin the driveshaft so there's no contact between the yokes. Also measure that the 14b and make sure that it's a 1350 and not a 1410, because there's no 1310/1410 hybrid joint.

I just went through that w/ my truck.
 
JoshHefnerX said:
Not to throw a monkey wrench into this, but the longer nose on the 14b will make the angles more severe, possibly causing some vibrations. Also double check that you have proper clearance when you spin the driveshaft so there's no contact between the yokes. Also measure that the 14b and make sure that it's a 1350 and not a 1410, because there's no 1310/1410 hybrid joint.

I just went through that w/ my truck.
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Yeah, the whole U Joint thing is another investigation. I have read a couple places where, since I have an SM465, my U-Joints are different than automatic trucks, and that they will work with a 14 bolt.

But I'm not buying that completely, I'll do some measuring.
 
I ended up with a CV when i had the K5. But the driveline I was running that was non CV was way heavy at 39 lbs :eek:

The CV shaft was for me to drive it to Moab at a reasonable speed. If your angles aren't freaky and the shaft isn't heavy, likely won't be a big issue.

If at some point you SYE the 241, I might consider going CV
 
4 inches on a K5 is the point where you can go either way-you're about at the limit of what you can do with a stock driveshaft. I went ahead and bit the bullet and I'm glad I did it because I no longer have to worry about it. For the record, a shackle flip is going to rotate your pinion up, you may find it puts you at close to ideal orientation for CV :)
 
I would not be surprised if the drive shaft length has to be modified when you install the 14-Bolt. My guess is it will have to be shortened because of the longer yoke nose on the 14-Bolt. There is a shop just down the street from my commercial building, on Dean Martin Dr & Tropicana, which can do drive shaft modifications and balancing. The problem is that If you install a shackle flip later, you may have to have it modified again.
 
1-ton said:
I would not be surprised if the drive shaft length has to be modified when you install the 14-Bolt. My guess is it will have to be shortened because of the longer yoke nose on the 14-Bolt. There is a shop just down the street from my commercial building, on Dean Martin Dr & Tropicana, which can do drive shaft modifications and balancing. The problem is that If you install a shackle flip later, you may have to have it modified again.
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Thanks! I decided when I install the 14 bolt i'm doing the shackle flip at the same time. Hopefully i'll only have to modify once.

I have read where it may need to be shortened. If that's the case, and IF i do need some kind of adapter U-joint, maybe I'll have the end of the shaft changed at the same time so I can just use a regular U-joint for a 14 bolt. I haven't figured all that out yet.
 
If you do the shackle flip at the same time, you may have to lengthen the drive shaft instead of shorten it, or you could get wildly lucky, and the length will be good as is. You will not know until you actually install everything. If you are going with a 4" lift shackle flip, then you will have 8" total lift with your 4" block. The angles will increase enough to need a Double Cardan set up on the trans case side of the drive shaft.
 
1-ton said:
If you do the shackle flip at the same time, you may have to lengthen the drive shaft instead of shorten it, or you could get wildly lucky, and the length will be good as is. You will not know until you actually install everything. If you are going with a 4" lift shackle flip, then you will have 8" total lift with your 4" block. The angles will increase enough to need a Double Cardan set up on the trans case side of the drive shaft.
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Oh, no, the blocks are going in the trash. I'm just going with the 4" shackle flip. I'm only keeping the blocks at long as the 10 bolt is in there.
 
Orange Roc just did his K20, looked 1" short. I suspect that yours will be similar
 
Orange roc already had a 14 bolt in his if your swapping out the ten bolt and putting in the 14 bolt you might be fine the snout on the 14 bolt is a little longer
 
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