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cv shaft and shackle flip, still vibrates. [Final say]

Did it do this before the lift? If not I'd say its your angle.


Try some 6" shackles and see if it works, mine works sweet and we have identical setup a other than shackle length..
 
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He said it was smooth before the lift

One more thing, does it have the front driveshaft in it?

Just for kicks and giggles pull it out.

If your feeling ambitious rotate your tires front to back see if it makes a difference.

I am just kind of grasping here cause you new driveshaft looks to be fine with angles
 
Deuling said:
Did it do this before the lift? If not I'd say its your angle.


Try some 6" shackles and see if it works, mine works sweet and we have identical setup a other than shackle length..
Click to expand...

I'm going to have to swap out shims and stuff if I get new shackles. I really don't want to run that long of shackles :/
 
blazinzuk said:
He said it was smooth before the lift

One more thing, does it have the front driveshaft in it?

Just for kicks and giggles pull it out.

If your feeling ambitious rotate your tires front to back see if it makes a difference.

I am just kind of grasping here cause you new driveshaft looks to be fine with angles
Click to expand...

It was smooth before the lift but I also didn't have a cv shaft then.

I rotated the tires the other weekend when I did a front end alignment. No difference.

I don't have the front shaft in. The exhaust is in the way of the shaft.
 
y5mgisi said:
Still have your old shaft?
Click to expand...

I do, but the truck was undriveable with it on. I could not even touch the gas pedal.

I'm almost wondering if I need to run a 5 or 6* shim. The pinion tips up just a hair on hard acceleration and the vibrations aren't as bad.
 
Come to think of it, I had a weird slam/pop feel a couple times going from coast to acceleration on the highway. Could that be output bushing related?
 
metalneverdies said:
Hmmm. Do you have a shim with your setup?
Click to expand...

No shims.

Just sayin it's worth a try. It would only take a few min to bolt some different shackles in.


You could go buy some flat stock, cut and drill two holes pretty fast and cheap
 
Deuling said:
No shims.

Just sayin it's worth a try. It would only take a few min to bolt some different shackles in.


You could go buy some flat stock, cut and drill two holes pretty fast and cheap
Click to expand...

After I check bushings and bearings I will try the shackles exactly 6" center of hole to hole?
 
Alright, So I checked drive shaft bushing play. There is none. I can lift the whole t-case / trans with the drive shaft and no slop or clicking, shook it from all different points, tried to lift and pull all directions. Completely solid. :thumb:

I lifted the rear axle with the tires still on and the drive shaft off the pinion. When I turn the pinion by hand there are few spots that sort of feel almost notch-y or kind of ratchet like; in that it is not 100% smooth but I in no way have to force the pinion to turn. It is kind of hard to explain. I dont have a way to measure the lash on the pinion but there is a decent amount of spin direction to direction for it to engage. :dunno: :confused:

I know I have a Aubron LSD in the rear, is this normal operation? Should I pull the differential cover and drain it for inspection?

What fluids would I need for replacement when I seal it back up?
 
You put the LSD in? Or it came that way? It's more than likely a gov bomb if it came that way.


And 80/90 gear oil with a bottle of limited slip additive
 
metalneverdies said:
Alright, So I checked drive shaft bushing play. There is none. I can lift the whole t-case / trans with the drive shaft and no slop or clicking, shook it from all different points, tried to lift and pull all directions. Completely solid. :thumb:
Click to expand...
This is in nuetral, right?
metalneverdies said:
I lifted the rear axle with the tires still on and the drive shaft off the pinion. When I turn the pinion by hand there are few spots that sort of feel almost notch-y or kind of ratchet like; in that it is not 100% smooth but I in no way have to force the pinion to turn. It is kind of hard to explain. I dont have a way to measure the lash on the pinion but there is a decent amount of spin direction to direction for it to engage. :dunno: :confused:

I know I have a Aubron LSD in the rear, is this normal operation? Should I pull the differential cover and drain it for inspection?

What fluids would I need for replacement when I seal it back up?
Click to expand...
The slop in there, where the pinion turns a ways before the tires move, is normal. There's always a little backlash in the ring/pinion and the spider gears just keep opening up more and more as time goes on. Not being smooth is a problem, and could be the source of your vibration. The clutches shouldn't do anything unless you're making the tires spin at different rates. It's time to pull the diff cover and have a look.
 
Do you have the stock yoke on it with a conversion joint in the driveshaft? Or a different one?

I put one from a 14bsf on mine so I could just run a standard 1350 u joint on the driveshaft. But I found I had to trim the dust plate back about an 1/8" as it was rubbing on the housing and making it weird to turn.
 
Wow, I just thought of this. When swapping to a 14B (i.e. 1350 yoke) rear, it's possible to re-install the original U-joint. Everything bolts up, but the caps are loose. It will rattle under light load, but not heavy load. You can almost get the same effect from loose lug nuts or loose pinion bearings. Since you have a 10b, that's less likely, but without knowing how the driveshaft was built, anything is possible. I didn't look up the part numbers you posted, but it might be good to do so, along with your yoke, as a sanity check that everything matches.

It's also posssible the centering ears are worn on the yoke, letting the joint slide a little in the caps and/or get installed off-center a tad, causing imbalance. Have you pulled and pried all over on that end of the shaft and the pinion? (tranny in nuetral)
 
Blue85, I did check on both ends and the middle of the drive shaft. However, I had the truck in park. I figured the play in the parking pawl would allow for enough movement to check for bushing issues. I will try it again in neutral when I get off of work tonight.

The diff has an auburn LSD for sure. I know this because the previous owner (my father) blew out the gov lock years ago. He then took it to a shop and had them install the auburn LSD. The pinion does not have the little tabs on it. The front does. The rear is held in with snap rings that snugly fit the end caps and slide into the yolk. It is a tight fit and i dont believe that it moves in the pinoin, because when I tried to make it move there was no play. You can also see that the clip rests completely against the yolk / straps to hold the pinion on.

Adam, I have the neapco 477 conversion ujoint as far as I know on the rear. It has the 10 bolt pinion yolk.


I think the 5-1350-x would go on the rear? that seems to look like the closest to the neapco conversion 447 Ujoint I originally had on the rear. They said they had to swap it out because it wouldnt fit up on their balancer with the snap rings I had on the caps. When I came in and picked up the shaft he showed me how the snap rings supplied with the 447 joint where to small and ment for a presicion cap. The new one he had installed filled the whole snap ring slot like they are supposed to. The spicer 5-795x u joint seems to have the incorrect snap rings on this picture. I believe mine are all outside rings. http://www.actionmachineinc.com/saginaw44seriesnongreasableu-joint.aspx

The part #'s for all the things they replaced are: (as quoted by phone)

Neapco -

N3-281747-1x
N2-86-418

Spicer u joints-

5-795x
404-0a
5-1350-x
 
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