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Cylinder Head Bolt Recommendations? TBI 350

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Big6ft6

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Does anybody have cylinder head bolt recommondations for a stock TBI 350?

I'm going to pick up my head from the machine shop today. I've never installed a head before so it is all new to me. Engine is still in the truck so studs are not an options. I was about to order Fel-Pro head bolts to go with my Fel-Pro gasket set...then suddenly ran into a fair number of negative reviews about the Fel-Pro bolts breaking well below the recommended torque. :eek::confused:

Maybe this is a problem with all torque-to-yield bolts since they are designed to be torqued to their yielding point, maybe it is easy to snap em??
 
I have used a lot of FelPro head bolts and have never had a problem with them.

Martin
 
Thanks Martin....do you have any specific tips/tricks when installing head bolts? For example, do you put lube under the heat of the bolt? Did you chase all the holes with thread chaser?

I want to be sure I do this right (i.e. do it once), would rather learn from other's experiences that trial and error on my own!! :cool1:
 
Big6ft6 said:
Thanks Martin....do you have any specific tips/tricks when installing head bolts? For example, do you put lube under the heat of the bolt? Did you chase all the hols with thread chaser?

I want to be sure I do this right (i.e. do it once), would rather learn from other's experiences that trial and error on my own!! :cool1:
Click to expand...

The FelPro bolts come with sealant on the threads.

I always clean the threads in the block, and yes, I put a little oil under the head of the bolts.

ARP are going to be higher quality (possibly), but are unnecessary for a 350 TBI.

Martin
 
Big6ft6 said:
then suddenly ran into a fair number of negative reviews about the Fel-Pro bolts breaking well below the recommended torque. :eek::confused:
Click to expand...

I'd expect that torque to yield bolts fail when one uses a 40 year old (or Chinese) torque wrench that has never been re-calibrated. To properly place blame on the bolts you'd have to test them with a known good torque wrench.
 
Ok...I confess I have a harbor freight torque wrench that I was planning to use that I bought back in college. I'm older now and should get a grown-up version. How much more money do I need to spend to get a torque wrench I can rely on? Any suggestions as to what is generally considered getting quality without having to cross the "ask the wife" dollar threshold? She already hates this truck because I accidentally bought it without asking her.
 
Big6ft6 said:
Ok...I confess I have a harbor freight torque wrench that I was planning to use. How much more money do I need to spend to get a torque wrench I can rely on? Any suggestions as to what is generally considered getting quality without having to cross the "ask the wife" dollar threshold? She already hates this truck because I accidentally bought it without asking her.
Click to expand...
I like snap on, craftsmen should do. And roses
 
You could get a a CDI torque wrench, they make Snapons torque wrenches.
 
I use an old Miller beam type torque wrench . It was actually a master tech award that was given to my grandfather by Chrysler corporation. I have had a couple old timer's tell me that they are more accurate than a lot of the new torque wrenches out there, but that is probably just an opinion of theirs , they just like old stuff. As long as the beam is on zero , before you torque(the beam is not bent throwing off the reading) , it works very well and is accurate. Have used this old torque wrench for years. .............As far as fasteners and bolts, I think it is safe to say that 90% of the mechanics out there will tell you ARP is the best. Some say B&B is pretty good as well.
 
wetool - Thanks! Didn't come across those. Looks to be a good compromise between Fel-Pro and ARP. I am only installing one head, so it pains me a little to pay for the two head set of ARP bolts. of course if my exhaust valves were burnt in one head, maybe it won't be so long before I start loosing the valves in the other head so a full set of head bolts might be useful.
 
Big6ft6 said:
wetool - Thanks! Didn't come across those. Looks to be a good compromise between Fel-Pro and ARP. I am only installing one head, so it pains me a little to pay for the two head set of ARP bolts. of course if my exhaust valves were burnt in one head, maybe it won't be so long before I start loosing the valves in the other head so a full set of head bolts might be useful.
Click to expand...

No problem. Another one to look at is allstar performance. They were really cheap on summit ($24) but they had really good reviews.

ARPs are great but often exceed whats needed, not that its a bad thing. Im going through a motor right now and an engine builder friend as well as a few other people commonly say "ARP bolts go through the pan better". What they mean by this is that theres tons of other area the motor will let go before you ever reap the strength benefits of ARP head bolts. If they were $40 id probably get them lol. $80 is a bit stiff.
 
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