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D44/14BFF Questions

nad

nad

1/2 ton status
Joined
Dec 29, 2005
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Location
Festus, MO
Is there any way I can find a set of 3/4 ton axles to fit under my Jimmy without having to modify a bunch of stuff. Are there any specific trucks that have the same axles and spring perches and everything on them? I have a welder, and could probably re-weld spring perches and shock mounts, but I just don't trust myself.

I would go with a D60, but I'm not planning on doing any extreme crawling, I just want to put some bigger tires on, and I've heard bad things about 10 bolt axles + 35"+ sized tires.

Even if I found one from an old Suburban, could I just relocate the spring perches & shock mounts and bolt it right in? Or would I have to narrow it, and change driveshafts and everything else?

Thanks for the help/opinions in advance.
 
just get a dana 44 and 14 bff from a 3/4 ton truck same year as you blazer and it will be a direct bolt in. No mods needed. I have a 75 k5 and put dana 44 and 14bff 3/4 ton from a 76 1/2 truck in.
 
If you get a pair of axles from any 3/4 ton truck it is a direct swap with the exception of you'll need a conversion joint for the rear driveshaft. Just make sure you get it from a 4WD truck otherwise you'll have to modify the rear shock brackets for the driver side shock to fit correctly.
 
If I find a set of 3/4 ton axles, what's the biggest tire you guys would suggest on them? I'm not nearly ready to buy them or anything yet, I'm just getting an idea. Thanks.
 
4X4HIGH said:
If you get a pair of axles from any 3/4 ton truck it is a direct swap with the exception of you'll need a conversion joint for the rear driveshaft. Just make sure you get it from a 4WD truck otherwise you'll have to modify the rear shock brackets for the driver side shock to fit correctly.
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Aren't the 3/4 ton trucks the ones with 14B SF axles?:confused:
 
Oh yeah, you're probably right. Sorry for the dumb question, but what exactly is the difference?
 
TexasBlazerBoy said:
Aren't the 3/4 ton trucks the ones with 14B SF axles?:confused:
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Not necessarily. Later 3/4's more often had the semifloat, like mid-80's and later, but the 70's ones are all fullfloat.

For the OP, the difference is that the 14BSF sucks and you want a 14BFF. ;)

-- A
 
http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b_bible/index.html
That says what truck to look for, and probably the difference between semifloat and full floating. Basically, full floating is stronger and the weight doesnt rest on the axle shafts so if the axle breaks the wheel doesnt come flying off. Semi float is still plenty strong, a whole lot more so than the 10b. But I dont really have any personal experience with 14sf to really say what its capable off.
 
Well if it helps I have 3/4 ton axles out of a 3/4 ton 79 chevy pickup and it bolted right in to my 88 K5 with just a new u-joint. I'am now running 38.5 Interco TSL Swampers.

BTW new U-joint NAPA part# 447
 
4X4HIGH said:
Just make sure you get it from a 4WD truck otherwise you'll have to modify the rear shock brackets for the driver side shock to fit correctly.
Click to expand...
The driver's side shock wont fit correctly? I have a 2wd 14ff that I'm putting in and was hoping it would all fit temporarily until I could reweld the shock tab. And maybe hold up to some wheelin' before I have time to weld it...I have the urge, its been too long! :crazy:
 
So how can I tell a difference between a full float and semi float? And how should I know what years should bolt directly up to my Jimmy? Thanks for all the input guys, I appreciate it.
 
^Good question. A guy up the street has a set of 12 bolts he wants to sell me. I've heard they're not much different than the 10 bolt strength wise.
 
Chrisblazzer89 said:
Well if it helps I have 3/4 ton axles out of a 3/4 ton 79 chevy pickup and it bolted right in to my 88 K5 with just a new u-joint. I'am now running 38.5 Interco TSL Swampers.

BTW new U-joint NAPA part# 447
Click to expand...
It's actually precision u-joint part# puj-447
dremu said:
Not necessarily. Later 3/4's more often had the semifloat, like mid-80's and later, but the 70's ones are all fullfloat.

For the OP, the difference is that the 14BSF sucks and you want a 14BFF. ;)

-- A
Click to expand...
:( Aww comon there is nothing wrong with a 14sf. In most cases for 36's and under a 14sf is plenty, and its deff better than the pos 10b or 12b.



3/4 ton 14bff are nice b/c the spring perches don't have to be moved, when you get them out of a 1 ton the perches have to be moved inward and the shock mounts also have to be relocated.
 
Chrisblazzer89 said:
Well if it helps I have 3/4 ton axles out of a 3/4 ton 79 chevy pickup and it bolted right in to my 88 K5 with just a new u-joint. I'am now running 38.5 Interco TSL Swampers.

BTW new U-joint NAPA part# 447
Click to expand...

Yeah forgot about the joint i changed mine to a 1 ton yoke. I also had 39.5 tires but changed to 37" goodyears and have no troubles.
 
lochenjons said:
The driver's side shock wont fit correctly? I have a 2wd 14ff that I'm putting in and was hoping it would all fit temporarily until I could reweld the shock tab. And maybe hold up to some wheelin' before I have time to weld it...I have the urge, its been too long! :crazy:
Click to expand...

The shock body will hit the bracket before you even get the shock to bolt in. Maybe i only had this issue because i'm running a CV rear shaft and had to rotate my pinion further up from stock which rotates the shock bracket forward and allows the shock body to hit the bracket.

I simply cut a V into the bracket on both sides then heated the bracket and bent it backwards until the shock fit then welded the V which is now closed together.
 
4X4HIGH said:
The shock body will hit the bracket before you even get the shock to bolt in. Maybe i only had this issue because i'm running a CV rear shaft and had to rotate my pinion further up from stock which rotates the shock bracket forward and allows the shock body to hit the bracket.

I simply cut a V into the bracket on both sides then heated the bracket and bent it backwards until the shock fit then welded the V which is now closed together.
Click to expand...
Hmm it doesnt look like it should hit on mine...I'll have to see. You didn;t bother moving the entire bracket up? I was kinda worried about the chock being stretched farther down then it originally sits, but I guess it isnt that much.
 
I recently pulled my rear axle to remove and relocate the spring mounts and i also installed some 4WD shock brackets i had cut and saved from another axle.
 
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