d44 axle u-joint size

[carpeonnel]

Are d44 axle shaft joints 1330 or 1310? Anybody know off hand

 

[TerryD]

Neither. They are spicer part # 5-297x and 5-760X. The 5-760X is the fordged center section, and with full circle clips, I've never seen one broken. The cross is probably similar in size to the 1310 joints, but I'm unsure on this.

 

[Hossbaby50]

5-297x is the old spicer part number that was replaced by 5-760x. 760's are pretty tough joints that are good for stock axleshafts. They do not come with full circle clips though, and stock axleshafts are not clearenced for full circles. Only aftermarket shafts are clearenced for full circles and if you have aftermarket shafts you really should invest in a good set of aftermarket joints for them to round out a strong combo.

If you are running stock shafts and 760's (or any over the counter joint) just tack weld the caps to the axleshaft ears in about 8 places alternating ears and sides as you tack. This will keep the caps from coming out. You can clearence stock axles for full circles but the tack welds to the same job.

You will never be able to get the joints out of the axles, but if you are to the point that you need to tack weld the caps into the axles you will probably destroy the axles before you ever would need to replace the joint.

Harley

 

[Big Blzn]

Hossbaby
I have never replace axle ujoints but by what you said about tack welding the caps in place: Do the axle shaft "ears/yolks" not have little tabs to keep the caps on like the pinion yolks have on my 12bolt? Now I gotta check my D44 axle joints to see what they look like.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Hossbaby
I have never replace axle ujoints but by what you said about tack welding the caps in place: Do the axle shaft "ears/yolks" not have little tabs to keep the caps on like the pinion yolks have on my 12bolt? Now I gotta check my D44 axle joints to see what they look like.

Nope. The joints are press fit into the shafts and have crappy c-clips that hold them in.

What usually happens is the material in the shaft stretches and the press fit doesn't hold anymore. Then the crappy c-clips let go and the u-joint cap leaves the shaft (which can break the shaft/joint and/or screw up the ball joint if you have them).

Aftermarket shafts use full circle clips to help with this problem, plus they're made of much better material which is less likely to stretch.

Tacking the joints in has worked well for a lot of people.

 

[TerryD]

I've got a friend who modified his stock shafts in his D44 for full circle clips. After he did that, he has torn the ears off the shaft, but never broken a cross (5-760x's) or spit out a cap. He has Alloy USA shafts with 5-760x's and an Aussie locker in it now and never broken anything.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

sidenote, got a blunt punch for my air hammer thats the size of a smallish U-joint cap. Its awsome for changin u-joints. yeah threadjack off

 

[carpeonnel]

On a side note. Who else sells high grade replacement axle shafts for 44 other than ORD

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

On a side note. Who else sells high grade replacement axle shafts for 44 other than ORD

Yukon and Alloy USA do, Yukon has a horrible reputation for D44 stuff.

You can get the Alloy USA ones here.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Doesnt superior make chromo shafts too? I think there is a bunch of different companys but I havent got any experience first hand with them. But I do know first hand ox u-joints are tough as nails in a D44 and I'ma ask my buddy shane what company made his shafts.

 

[carpeonnel]

I'm thinking about getting higher strength axleshafts and ujoints for mine (And yes I know it would be alot better to get a 60 than buying 44 sxleshafts), so I'm just trying to weigh the price/strength issue

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

i so had this talk with a guy at work today. I plan on only running 37s with a lockright front. well he told me straight up his 5.38 geared 92 explorer stock 4.0 5spd broke 3 alloy shortside shafts. said it would brake the ears off of them. used ox u-joints, ran 38.5 TSL/sx i think they are 15.50s on a HP D44 front with a detroit.

 

[Hossbaby50]

Yukons are crap most things other then 35spl D60 fronts. I have been down the D44/10b Yukon route and it is a waste of time, money, and trail time. If you want good axles and joints there are a few out there. Warn, Superior, Alloy USA. The problem is right now Alloy USA and Superior are on MAJOR backorder for lack of material. Some people have been waiting 6 months or more for replacements.

We have had several local guys who have had good luck with Warn Shafts and that is the route I am going at this point in time with my build.

As for good ujoints if you want a good ujoint you can drive on the street look at CTM's and possibly Yukon Superjoints. I know Longfield doesnt recommend his joints for street use but they are great joints too if you don't street drive the truck much.

Companies like Yukon and Alloy I believe will honor there warranty with Spicer 760's but it will make the ujoints a potential weak link.

Harley

 

[carpeonnel]

yeah i've been looking at chromoloys, Warns, and the CTM joints. It seems no matter what, I'm looking at basically a 1K for that axle and strength upgrade. And people are probably trying to type now saying just save up for a 60 and sell the 44, but no thanks. I don't know how people can find 60s for the $200 and other crazy good deals they find but I congratulate you. I just think of it like this: I can spend another grand and buy upgraded axleshafts, u-joints, and pinion yoke ( HossBaby)

or invest in a 60 and have a price breakdown like this (at least in my mind):
Junkyard D60 - $650
Misc rebuild parts - $400
Prob. need Panhard bar - $350
Steer arms - $100
Possible M/C change cuz bigger D60 brakes - $100

And this would be best case scenario if I found a D60 with correct gear ratio, gears in great shape, good axleshafts, good hubs, and plus the PITA for me of f-ing with another front end after I the PO focked me on my D44 and I had to completely rebuild it. I just get this feeling that as soon as I buy a D60 I'm gonna wind up dumping 3k into just to have it in wheeling condition. I know alot of y'all are very talented with the tools to tear one down and rebuild with it ease it seems like, but I'm just a noob with a knuckle buster and a pair of vice grips.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

hey ill rep out the 8 lug built D44 with you, just gonna take me longer to build it lol

 

[bigblock72]

I've had mixed results with Yukon shafts myself, I don't know where they are made becaue they are very inconsistent. I've installed some for customers and they have pounded the tar out of them with no failures. I've also installed some that didn't make it out of the parking lot. In the end though once I warranty the bad ones they seem to be ok, especially for the money.

I run a set in my Blaze and have been pretty happy with them. with close to 400 hp, 5.13 gears, and 37s I'm obviously well into Dana 60 territory but the old 44 keeps hanging in there. I did finally break an inner shaft and a stub after almost 2 years of abuse and I don't think it was the axle's fault. I had been beating the snot out of it in the snow, jumping drifts and coming down on the front end full throttle until I got stucker than snot. I had spun all the snow out from all the tires but the left front, I strung out the winch cable, stalled the 12k winch putting all the pressure on the left front then I tried to spin the front tire to move the snow and the obvious happpened. Amazingly it twisted the splines off of the stub and broke the ears off of the inner shaft at the same time (first for me too)and I had to have a Jeep pull me out.


I wouldn't be too scared of the Yukons. They are quite a bit cheaper, they are a little difficult to get warrantied as you'll have to deal with Randy's ring and pinion. I usually order a replacement from them and call back in a week or so and tell them the one I just bought broke, they'll give you a number and a couple weeks later credit you back minus shipping.

Check these guys out for the best prices. http://completeoffroad.com/i-125005...-kit-w-super-u-joint-kit-4340-chromemoly.html

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

As for good ujoints if you want a good ujoint you can drive on the street look at CTM's and possibly Yukon Superjoints. I know Longfield doesnt recommend his joints for street use but they are great joints too if you don't street drive the truck much.

CTM's use bushings and are not recommended for street use. Alloy USA offers a joint made from 8620 steel with lifetime warranty for $35 or so (D44/10 bolt stuff only, they don't make a joint for the D60 yet ).

yeah i've been looking at chromoloys, Warns, and the CTM joints. It seems no matter what, I'm looking at basically a 1K for that axle and strength upgrade. And people are probably trying to type now saying just save up for a 60 and sell the 44, but no thanks. I don't know how people can find 60s for the $200 and other crazy good deals they find but I congratulate you. I just think of it like this: I can spend another grand and buy upgraded axleshafts, u-joints, and pinion yoke ( HossBaby)

or invest in a 60 and have a price breakdown like this (at least in my mind):
Junkyard D60 - $650
Misc rebuild parts - $400
Prob. need Panhard bar - $350
Steer arms - $100
Possible M/C change cuz bigger D60 brakes - $100

You'd be VERY lucky to find a D60 for $650.

As for rebuild costs, I had to invest very little in mine. I suppose that depends on which front D60 you might find (and hence how much its worth). $400 for rebuild parts sounds steep to me.

I don't know why you think you'd need a panhard bar with a D60 and why you think it would cost $350

If you plan on crossover steering, the steering arm is a set cost for either axle. If you're not using crossover, you don't need to buy a steering arm.

The master cylinder change is unnecessary IMO.


I'm not necessarily suggesting that you get a 60 instead of dropping $1000+ into your D44 but a lot of your proposed D60 costs are not too justified.

 

[carpeonnel]

CTM's use bushings and are not recommended for street use. Alloy USA offers a joint made from 8620 steel with lifetime warranty for $35 or so (D44/10 bolt stuff only, they don't make a joint for the D60 yet ).

Well unless you're running a 203 you're not gonna be running it on the street in 4wd, right?



You'd be VERY lucky to find a D60 for $650.

As for rebuild costs, I had to invest very little in mine. I suppose that depends on which front D60 you might find (and hence how much its worth). $400 for rebuild parts sounds steep to me.

I don't know why you think you'd need a panhard bar with a D60 and why you think it would cost $350

If you plan on crossover steering, the steering arm is a set cost for either axle. If you're not using crossover, you don't need to buy a steering arm.

The master cylinder change is unnecessary IMO.


I'm not necessarily suggesting that you get a 60 instead of dropping $1000+ into your D44 but a lot of your proposed D60 costs are not too justified.

Well these are all just my basic guessimations in my head. I put the panhard bar in there just cuz it seems that it's a new ticket to run since d60 death wobble appears to be ever present. I just know that once I started reuilding one it would wind up costing me a lot more than I had planned on it

 

[Hossbaby50]

I know CTM's are not really recommended for street use but I know at least a few guys that have street driven CTM's with no problems for several years. That is why I say you can street drive CTM's. The bushing is always replaceable if necessary.

A D60 is a good option if you can find one for a reasonable price. The best way to find one for decent money is to find a whole K30 truck for a good price and buy the whole thing. Part it out and you can often get into the D60 for less then market value which is usually about $1000-1200 for a bone stock axle in moderate shape.

I am putting a D60 in my buggy build because I know I want to run big tires and be able to abuse it if I want/need to. I got lucky though and have found a friend that I am trading some labor to for the D60 so I don't have to drop that money out of my pocket for the axle, I just gotta sweat my ass off and pay a helper to work with me for a day.

If I were you I would keep my eye out for axleshafts and ujoints on the used market. I have seen several sets come up on the used market for very reasonable money recently. Hell I sold a set of Warn inners I got out of an axle I parted out. I kept the warn stubs and CTMs for my 10b, now I just have to buy inners. I have seen a set of Alloy USA's and CTM's go for cheap. I know another guy who is looking to get out of his Chromo D44's soon. I will send you a PM.

Harley

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Are d44 axle shaft joints 1330 or 1310? Anybody know off hand

D44 joints (760-x) are 3.375" across and use 1.1875" caps.

1310 joints are 3.219" across and use 1.062" caps.

So the crosses are somewhat close in size, the caps are quite a bit bigger on the 760-x joint.