d44 flattop knuckle questions

[lochenjons]

I've been looking into what I need to go to a x over setup on my 77 k5 cause I'm sick of not being able to turn or only being able to turn right, etc. From the look of it, the drivers side knuckle is flattop and the pass. side is not. Most of the pics I've seen showing flattops are the pass. side. Is this the side that matters or do they both have to be a flattop? I assume only the pass. side would have to be a flattop unless running high steer right? Why would only the driver side be flattop on my 77 then? I can take some pics if you guys want too. I know a guy who has a rolled 74 k5 that hes gonna scrap so Ill check to see if it has what I want, if what I have isnt gonna work as I assume it wont. Also I assume swithing output shafts on my current steering box is more work than simply putting a 2wd one on correct? Or is it gonna be a pain to get all the fittings to work right with the 2wd box so I might as well just switch ouputs?
Thanks

EDIT: After looking some more at the x over kit from ORD I notice they have pitman arms too, wont the stock pitman arm from a 2wd box work?

EDIT2: And are there other places to get/alternatives to ORD steering arm? I'm doing this on a VERY low budget and $150 for the steering arm pretty much would take up the whole budget

 

[dremu]

I've been looking into what I need to go to a x over setup on my 77 k5 cause I'm sick of not being able to turn or only being able to turn right, etc. From the look of it, the drivers side knuckle is flattop and the pass. side is not. Most of the pics I've seen showing flattops are the pass. side. Is this the side that matters or do they both have to be a flattop? I assume only the pass. side would have to be a flattop unless running high steer right? Why would only the driver side be flattop on my 77 then? I can take some pics if you guys want too. I know a guy who has a rolled 74 k5 that hes gonna scrap so Ill check to see if it has what I want, if what I have isnt gonna work as I assume it wont. Also I assume swithing output shafts on my current steering box is more work than simply putting a 2wd one on correct? Or is it gonna be a pain to get all the fittings to work right with the 2wd box so I might as well just switch ouputs?
Thanks

EDIT: After looking some more at the x over kit from ORD I notice they have pitman arms too, wont the stock pitman arm from a 2wd box work?

EDIT2: And are there other places to get/alternatives to ORD steering arm? I'm doing this on a VERY low budget and $150 for the steering arm pretty much would take up the whole budget

The 4WD steering box and arm are keyed so the arm only fits one way. The 2WD ones are keyed every 90* so they fit four ways. Switching shafts is pretty easy:

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=147102&highlight=sector+shaft+swap

If you have a 2WD box with the same style fittings (O-ring versus compression) as the one you have now, you can swap; otherwise, I'd swap shafts.

That's why you need a new box/shaft, and arm.

There are other places than ORD that sell the stuff you need -- for instance I bought mine from Trevor @ www.wfoconcepts.com. This stuff ain't cheap, though, regardless.

The driver's side knuckle is machined on all D44/10b's as that's where the factory steering arm goes. The passenger side is not machined as it doesn't need to be. IIRC only the flat-top style can be machined to mirror the driver's side and this is why we want them.

You'll want a matched pair of knuckles, as on some the tierod comes in from the bottom, and on others it comes in from the top... if you had one of each you'd be in trouble

Trevor sells knuckles, when he has them, or that '74 your friend has should have flat-tops.

Hope that helps.

-- A

 

[lochenjons]

The 4WD steering box and arm are keyed so the arm only fits one way. The 2WD ones are keyed every 90* so they fit four ways. Switching shafts is pretty easy:

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=147102&highlight=sector+shaft+swap

If you have a 2WD box with the same style fittings (O-ring versus compression) as the one you have now, you can swap; otherwise, I'd swap shafts.

That's why you need a new box/shaft, and arm.

There are other places than ORD that sell the stuff you need -- for instance I bought mine from Trevor @ www.wfoconcepts.com. This stuff ain't cheap, though, regardless.

The driver's side knuckle is machined on all D44/10b's as that's where the factory steering arm goes. The passenger side is not machined as it doesn't need to be. IIRC only the flat-top style can be machined to mirror the driver's side and this is why we want them.

You'll want a matched pair of knuckles, as on some the tierod comes in from the bottom, and on others it comes in from the top... if you had one of each you'd be in trouble

Trevor sells knuckles, when he has them, or that '74 your friend has should have flat-tops.

Hope that helps.

-- A

Sweet thanks that helps a lot
That thread is great too, I'll just swap the shaft then.

Here's my plan for this so far:
Flattop knuckle: Hopefully free from friends truck. The only machining that needs to be done is drill the holes for the steering arm correct? If so, I'll take it to a friends shop
Steering box shaft: Hope to find free too from the same guy-he has a bunch of junk trucks
Pitman arm: Can I use the stock 2wd one? If not...$70 from ORD
Steering arm: $110 from WFO
Draglink: One from a fullsize jeep truck works right? If so I saw one at the picknpull so however much thats gonna be, or if I can find one from somwhere else

So basically I hope to get this done for $110-$300 . Anything else I'm forgetting?

 

[big83chevy4x4]

www.sky-manufacturing.com has steering arms also (its under the ford section). i have the tall version from them and its beffy.

as far as drag link goes, i am unaware of a "junkyard" one that will fit. every setup is gonna have a different length. also you may need a bent draglink to clear the engine crossmember, or you can run a straight link and replace the crossmember.

 

[dremu]

Do a search; there's a Ford van pitman arm that will work -- ten bucks at the pick-n-pull, less if it falls in your toolbox.

Forgot, yup, you need a bent draglink unless you change crossmembers, which is costly unless you own a welder

-- A

 

[lochenjons]

Do a search; there's a Ford van pitman arm that will work -- ten bucks at the pick-n-pull, less if it falls in your toolbox.

Forgot, yup, you need a bent draglink unless you change crossmembers, which is costly unless you own a welder

-- A

What makes the stock one not work? Or any not work for that matter? Or better yet, which ford van's pitman arm works? Ah yes, "accidentaly" of course . I could weld it but would rather not go through the work. Hmm... I'll look around the pick n pull this weekend and start collecting some parts, and look for a draglink that might work. Anyone know the length it has to be with a 4" lift? And I assume its the same length with a 52" spring swap, since I'll be doing that too soon?

EDIT: ok now i searched, 75-79 ford van. But it needs to be reamed.
Random links for my info and yours:
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=344477
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=166246
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92277